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Post by darkarn on Apr 16, 2021 5:08:18 GMT
Buzz is on 1 channel only ? There's two different kind of buzz I am hearing now
1. Softer, but persistant throughout all volume levels especially from second half of volume knob. Only on left channel 2. Louder but only from 75% of volume knob onwards. On both channels
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 16, 2021 14:53:22 GMT
Are you listening using very sensitive headphones ?
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Post by darkarn on Apr 17, 2021 3:25:00 GMT
Are you listening using very sensitive headphones ? My headphones are 80 Ohms and below and therefore I tested with the High R option, but even then these buzzing (especially 1) still persist
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 17, 2021 14:43:26 GMT
Did it start after the volpot change or did you not notice it before ?
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Post by darkarn on Apr 17, 2021 21:28:57 GMT
Did it start after the volpot change or did you not notice it before ?
It seems to have started after the volpot change, especially since that volpot change was also when I stopped mounting the volpot onto the PCB and used cables to connect the volpot to the amp instead
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 19, 2021 8:31:03 GMT
perhaps drill out the holes where the volpot used to be and insert the volpot in its original position ?
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Post by darkarn on Apr 19, 2021 11:21:21 GMT
perhaps drill out the holes where the volpot used to be and insert the volpot in its original position ? Thanks, looks like I cannot put that off any longer. I'll do that but will need some time to gather the stuff needed
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Post by darkarn on Apr 22, 2021 4:28:25 GMT
Meanwhile I saw that my Ember is using the stock GS40A48-P1J power supply. And from the Horizon thread, I saw that Jeremy swap that for a GS60 version of the power supply for the Horizon to solve LuckBad's problems with inrush current
Is the GS60 power supply also the stock power supply for the Ember now?
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Post by darkarn on May 6, 2021 16:13:42 GMT
I have the components ready for getting the volpot back onto the PCB but I got one question: How are the ground pins of the volpot originally connected to the ground plane of the PCB?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 7, 2021 13:40:34 GMT
The ground is connected directly on both sides of the ground planes. Just 'scratch' away some black soldermask and expose the bare copper directly next to the pins and solder the pins to the groundplane directly.
I have no idea about the power supplies (all Jeremy thing)
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Post by darkarn on May 9, 2021 4:07:39 GMT
The ground is connected directly on both sides of the ground planes. Just 'scratch' away some black soldermask and expose the bare copper directly next to the pins and solder the pins to the groundplane directly. I have no idea about the power supplies (all Jeremy thing) Thanks, I was just surprised how far the pads are from the ground plane when I started scratching I managed to fit in the new rivets even though they are wider than what was on the board. Apparently the metal is soft enough for me to trim them a bit. I am using M1.3 x 2.5mm rivets. The original size appears to be M1.1. When I started using the 1.2mm micro drill to drill through the holes, the connection between both sides of the PCB is then broken. As for length, 2.5mm is just nice if you want to do just one side. If you want to follow the video guide I posted earlier that does both sides with the rivet punch, you will need at least 3mm or 4mm. So far I am unable to find M1.1/M1.2 rivets, closest was a rivet kit that gave me M0.9 and M1.3 rivets. M0.9 was simply too small for the volpot's pins I will test this for a few days before reworking a few more joints and then I'll wrap up this project and start posting pictures. So far the sound seems to have improved (especially noise floor), feels quite close to the time when I just received it. If anything, I can sometimes hear what appears to be RF interference, not sure how else to describe the noise. How can I reduce it? As for the power supply, Jeremy explained to me that the Ember does not need the GS60 power supply and should remain on the GS40 power supply Also, how important is it to connect both sides of the PCB? Or rather, how important are the contacts on the top side of the PCB?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 9, 2021 5:20:40 GMT
No need to connect the top and bottom plane near the potmeter. Both planes are connected at multiple points anyway all over the PCB. Just drilling out the holes and mounting the potmeter by only soldering the bottom layer will suffice. You may have to scratch the laquer of the traces and solder some thin wire from the trace to the pads when the pad has come off from the board.
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Post by darkarn on May 9, 2021 7:00:42 GMT
No need to connect the top and bottom plane near the potmeter. Both planes are connected at multiple points anyway all over the PCB. Just drilling out the holes and mounting the potmeter by only soldering the bottom layer will suffice. You may have to scratch the laquer of the traces and solder some thin wire from the trace to the pads when the pad has come off from the board. Thank you, looks like I am on the right track after all since I drilled the holes and mounted the pot by soldering only at the bottom as you described I only didn't solder the thin wires from the traces to the pads as I wasn't able to find any decent thin and flexible wire. I think this is why I struggled yesterday; took a while for me to get the solder to connect both the exposed traces and the pads Am I right to say that theoretically speaking, only the bottom plane is more important for all components aside from the pot? Also, is there any way to reduce RF noises?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 9, 2021 13:01:49 GMT
Top and bottom planes are still connected.
I take a piece of supple mains cord and remove one of the strands for repairs on traces. After soldering apply some black permanent marker and it looks fine again.
Only building it into an all metal box (with the tube completely insided the box) will get rid of RF. There is no other way.
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Post by darkarn on May 16, 2021 16:28:34 GMT
Top and bottom planes are still connected. I take a piece of supple mains cord and remove one of the strands for repairs on traces. After soldering apply some black permanent marker and it looks fine again. Only building it into an all metal box (with the tube completely insided the box) will get rid of RF. There is no other way. Thanks, I got the cables ready (a single core cable and another multi-stranded cable). I will try what you suggested Meanwhile, I decided to rework more of the joints (some looked cold and/or the components are not lying down on the PCB) and found out that both C9 capacitors (47uF 100V) have this greenish discharge at their bottoms. The part of the PCB that they lay on also have the same discharge. Should I replace them too?
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