oldson
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Post by oldson on Apr 4, 2015 19:18:45 GMT
does this mean there is a "watch thread" coming? ?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 4, 2015 19:47:16 GMT
Well, I'm watching you, you naughty boy!!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2015 8:26:00 GMT
I'd like to share my slightly modified Ember. I built it last year and have been using it in stock form with both my 1968 Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globes and a 1971 GE 6DJ8 Smoked Glass. When Jeremy introduced the new aluminum chassis I jumped at the offer and then decided to make a few minor aesthetic changes and add the Supercharger and 6SN7 adapter. 1. The standoffs have been painted satin black to match the anodizing of the chassis. To me, this makes the chassis plates seem to float. 2. A new 32mm knob with black anodized center to match the chassis 3. Replacing the red power indicator LED with a 5mm blue, extended up into the chassis where it sit just behind the Supercharger. This make it much easier to see if the amp is on and produces a nice glow coming from the vent slots. 4. Painted the white ceramic portion of the 6SN7 adapter the same satin black to go with the new chassis. Bob Hi Bob, I've already said just how much I like the mods you've performed here. Do you mind if I ask a couple of questions? What kind of paint have you used for the standoffs and is it sprayed on or applied by brush? Does the anodized finish on the top-plate deteriorate as you tighten & slacken the top-nuts? I'm thinking of getting o-rings or possibly felt washers but if it's not an issue then there's no need to waste money. Thanks for taking the time. Gordon.
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obo78
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Post by obo78 on Apr 6, 2015 13:24:21 GMT
Gordon,
What kind of paint have you used for the standoffs and is it sprayed on or applied by brush?
As you know, I'm in the U.S. so your available options will probably be different, but I used Rustoluem Painter's Touch Ultra Cover Flat Black (brush on) for the 6SN7 socket and Krylon Maxx black/matte spray for the standoffs. A pipe cleaner run through the standoff makes it easy to hold for spraying and then clamp to dry. Basically, any acrylic flat/matte paint should do. The brush on will probably require two coats to eliminate brush marks.
Does the anodized finish on the top-plate deteriorate as you tighten & slacken the top-nuts?
I haven't seen that yet and I've removed/replaced about a dozen times. O-rings certainly wouldn't hurt. Note that you may have to sand/scrape a bit on the underside rear left corner of the top plate to assure grounding. Anodizing is pretty tough stuff and it took a bit of rubbing to sand off a small area around that rear left hole. Also make sure you leave no paint on the ends of that standoff for the same reason.
Bob
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Post by jhelms on Apr 6, 2015 14:12:04 GMT
Been away a bit and found the thread progress hilarious Simply because I love watches (restoring a Hamilton 912 currently / 1920's from memory) I also have quite a collection of cheaper skeleton watches. Nothing fancy, just love to admire the internals. Always been an avid fan of photography as well even though I am just a novice. Currently shooting with an olypus e-m5.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2015 16:40:15 GMT
Gordon, What kind of paint have you used for the standoffs and is it sprayed on or applied by brush?
As you know, I'm in the U.S. so your available options will probably be different, but I used Rustoluem Painter's Touch Ultra Cover Flat Black (brush on) for the 6SN7 socket and Krylon Maxx black/matte spray for the standoffs. A pipe cleaner run through the standoff makes it easy to hold for spraying and then clamp to dry. Basically, any acrylic flat/matte paint should do. The brush on will probably require two coats to eliminate brush marks. Does the anodized finish on the top-plate deteriorate as you tighten & slacken the top-nuts? I haven't seen that yet and I've removed/replaced about a dozen times. O-rings certainly wouldn't hurt. Note that you may have to sand/scrape a bit on the underside rear left corner of the top plate to assure grounding. Anodizing is pretty tough stuff and it took a bit of rubbing to sand off a small area around that rear left hole. Also make sure you leave no paint on the ends of that standoff for the same reason. Bob Thanks very much Bob. I've sourced the paints on Amazon UK so I can crack on with that when the time comes. I'm not sure what you mean re sanding of the top-plate. I'm not going to be building my Ember myself, that's Jeremy's job. I'll look into the o-rings once I've bought the amp. I'll take a trip around the merchants locally. Gordon.
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obo78
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Post by obo78 on Apr 6, 2015 17:44:32 GMT
I'm not sure what you mean re sanding of the top-plate. I'm not going to be building my Ember myself, that's Jeremy's job.
Read more: diyah.boards.net/thread/143/project-ember?page=73#ixzz3WYHQzU3qIf Jeremy is doing the build from scratch then it's not a concern. I'm sure he will make sure the grounding is proper. In retrofitting the anodized chassis it's important that they be grounded and the rear left hole for the standoffs on the pc board has a pad for ground contact. That ground is carried by the standoffs to the chassis plates. Anodizing and paint insulate the electrical contact so a bit of the anodizing might need to be removed at the point where the aluminum chassis plate meets that rear/left standoff. That's also why it's important to keep paint off the end of the standoff if you paint it. Bob
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2015 18:43:54 GMT
Yeah, I see what you mean & I'll be careful with the paint. Thanks.
Gordon.
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obo78
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Post by obo78 on Apr 9, 2015 14:27:15 GMT
Yeah, I see what you mean & I'll be careful with the paint. Thanks. Gordon. Now that I've removed and replaced the aluminum chassis a number of times, I am starting to see scoring from the knurled top nuts. It gets hidden when you replace the screws but it is definitely happening. O-rings should work. I just ordered a pack of 100 of these black nylon washers: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OLMDSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1As I only need 4, I'd be happy to mail out sets of 4 to anyone else who might need them. Jeremy might want to consider including them in the future. They certainly aren't necessary but they will preserve the anodizing under the top nuts.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2015 10:12:04 GMT
Hi Bob, I've actually got a plan as far as o-rings are concerned. I agree there is a case for supplying these as standard, particularly with the aluminium versions of the amps. Have you got any thoughts on isolation? I'll be using the Ember in a pretty tight spot with loudspeakers a bit too close for comfort. Although it'll be mainly used as a headphone amp I will use it's pre-out functionality too. I had tried the half-squash ball trick with the demo unit I had & it did work but it looked ridiculous. Something more in keeping with the size of the amp is required but it's easy to spend silly money & I'd prefer to spend as close to nothing as possible. Gordon. edit - I've found these but I'm skeptical. The price is nearly right though.. Fisual PadsOr this.. Granite chopping boardIt's a bit too big though. I think I might look into getting a stonemason to cut me something similar to the same size as the Ember's footprint.
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obo78
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Post by obo78 on Apr 10, 2015 11:46:08 GMT
Isolation isn't an issue for me. I don't use the preamp function and he only 6SN7 tube I have that is microphonic in the least is the worst of the lot so it doesn't see any service.
BTW - I just modded my Ember with a home brew dip socket to replace the low gain resistors ala the new gain module Jeremy has instituted in the Solstice. I had to kludge together the sockets from straight IC socket connectors and some spare styrene plastic as the Ember pc board holes for the original resistors were not designed with standard dip socket spacing in mind. It works very well however. I have three gain modules - the original 20K, 33K, & 47.5K. This gives me a lot more volume pot range when switching between low and high sensitivity headphones.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2015 12:05:26 GMT
I also had problems with the volume pot not allowing enough adjustment range. I had got used to my O2 with 1x gain. That allowed me to use virtually the whole range of the pot.
I believe the Ember MkII is going to deal with the volume pot travel issue.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2015 14:46:18 GMT
I've managed to find a local stonemason who's going to make a plinth of polished black granite to the same size as the Ember's footprint. £10 seems reasonable to me.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 11, 2015 15:28:39 GMT
Wow. That will look really nice. Add a gold knob .........
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2015 15:45:04 GMT
I was so impressed with Bob's knob I've ordered the same.
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