Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 17:06:44 GMT
I hate to be the one to disagree but I do. I have two expensive cables and there's a clear difference between them. The Linn Black is bright & slightly anaemic sounding whilst my Furukawa's are much darker. I have many other cables & I can't really hear any difference with those but these two are clearly different.
I certainly wouldn't pay more than say, £70 for a pair though. As long as they are mechanically sound with high quality plugs they're all good enough. Don't go for really cheap stuff though as I think you'll regret it down the line.
Gordon.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on May 5, 2015 18:36:07 GMT
David, if you decide to buy a new cable for your headphone, just some advice.
Look at the plugs that go into the cups. One of the things I found with the (embarrassing) cable that I bought was that I was unable to tilt my head left and right since the plugs went so low, that they touched my shoulders. It put stress onto the plug inserts.
Also, try to avoid anything that is too stiff. They are are also a pain.
My cable cost me as much as a Grado 325i and was the most stupid buy of my life. I'd have got more of a difference with the Grado headphone.
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solderdude
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measureutternutter
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Post by solderdude on May 5, 2015 18:41:19 GMT
The Ember needs 48V, this one is 12V, 15V or 24V. Jeremy is taking a long time isn't he ? That version can provide more current and is 24V/48V selectable.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 20:08:53 GMT
Is Jeremy making a linear power supply? If so, what benefits will it bring sound-wise?
Gordon.
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Post by richard51 on May 5, 2015 23:37:44 GMT
Looking for some opinions on interconnects. I just received the Ember yesterday. I ordered some Monoprice premium cables to connect the amp to the Oppo 105. Any thoughts on suitability of these cables as opposed to more high-end/pricy ones? Thanks, David Go for Morrow cable..... the price is right and the difference with ordinary cable is for me very sensible... Try the least pricey Morrow interconnect 1...I am very pleased....I had bought the morrow 3 after that....Best regards
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Post by richard51 on May 5, 2015 23:42:20 GMT
Hello Group. First time poster so please excuse any mistakes. I would like to start out by saying how much I love my Project Ember Amp. This has been a great project to build and modify as well rolling tubes (or valves as some may choose . I have been through the list with my tube rolling and I have to be honest I can't say there is anything I hate. If push came to shove I could listen to all of them. Now that being said I definitely liked some more than others. Tops on my list would be the Amperex PQ 6922, 6N30P-DR, and a couple Bugle Boy varieties. But then came out the 6SN7 adapter which opened up a whole other world. These quickly jumped to the top of the list, very open, good clarity with punchy low end. I thought I could finally stop rolling but then came along another tube I came across, the 7193 which is basically half of a 6SN7. With an adapter I found on ebay I figured I would give it a try. Wholly crap this was audio heaven, wider sound stage velvety mids and highs, and a tight low end. Now I will say most of my listening has been done lately using the Ember as a Pre Amp running an amp and speakers with a sub woofer attached so there may be a certain synergy that others may not get, but I strongly suggest trying it out if you can. There is also a certain cool factor due to the fact that the plate and grid uses external caps. Sorry to run on I will try and attach some pics of the Pre and Post FrankenEmber as I call it that show some other additions such as the standoffs and knob that I turned from brass. View Attachment View Attachment View Attachment I am interested in your experience......For me the 6ns7 family tube was better than anything......How do you described the difference with the Frankentube with your 6ns7 ?
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Post by musicman on May 6, 2015 1:29:46 GMT
thanks Solderdude, I was wondering because he claims to make higher output supplies as well, wondered if his would work, Jeremy is got alot on his plate right now, I would love to get a filter for my hd650's but afraid that is a long way off with all the other products, not to mention, he has a life outside of here as well. Not complaining just looking for other possible sources. Thanks again, Don
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Post by ronzo56 on May 6, 2015 2:49:49 GMT
I hate to be the one to disagree but I do. I have two expensive cables and there's a clear difference between them. The Linn Black is bright & slightly anaemic sounding whilst my Furukawa's are much darker. I have many other cables & I can't really hear any difference with those but these two are clearly different. I certainly wouldn't pay more than say, £70 for a pair though. As long as they are mechanically sound with high quality plugs they're all good enough. Don't go for really cheap stuff though as I think you'll regret it down the line. Gordon. No problem with your disagreeing. I should say that I haven't found any difference in the ones I have owned. Now speaker cables can be a different thing. I had some basic wire runs of about 4 meters. I thought they sounded fine. Then I bought some made from thick copper wire and excellent shielding, Made a big difference in clarity. But the really cheap interconnects don't fit well at times and may pick up RFI as well.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 2:59:59 GMT
Yeah, I wasn't meaning to infer it's a night & day difference but it is there and it is fairly obvious. I have other cables that all sound the same though so who really knows.
As to speaker cables I'm with you there. They can make a huge difference. The ones I'm using these days are actually made from Mogami studio cabling. They're about 1" thick and I don't know if that has anything to do with it but they sounded incredible compared to the Audioquest Slate I was using previously. The shop I bought them from promised I'd like them so much that I'd be back to get custom interconnects made from the same cable but that was three years ago and I've never returned. One day maybe.
The man who makes them is 78 years old and maintains that most studios use Mogami so if it's good enough for the studio where the music is produced then it should be good enough for the average listening room. It makes sense I guess. But it's not cheap and I (at least right now) am.
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JGlatz
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Post by JGlatz on May 6, 2015 4:22:17 GMT
Hello Group. First time poster so please excuse any mistakes. I would like to start out by saying how much I love my Project Ember Amp. This has been a great project to build and modify as well rolling tubes (or valves as some may choose . I have been through the list with my tube rolling and I have to be honest I can't say there is anything I hate. If push came to shove I could listen to all of them. Now that being said I definitely liked some more than others. Tops on my list would be the Amperex PQ 6922, 6N30P-DR, and a couple Bugle Boy varieties. But then came out the 6SN7 adapter which opened up a whole other world. These quickly jumped to the top of the list, very open, good clarity with punchy low end. I thought I could finally stop rolling but then came along another tube I came across, the 7193 which is basically half of a 6SN7. With an adapter I found on ebay I figured I would give it a try. Wholly crap this was audio heaven, wider sound stage velvety mids and highs, and a tight low end. Now I will say most of my listening has been done lately using the Ember as a Pre Amp running an amp and speakers with a sub woofer attached so there may be a certain synergy that others may not get, but I strongly suggest trying it out if you can. There is also a certain cool factor due to the fact that the plate and grid uses external caps. Sorry to run on I will try and attach some pics of the Pre and Post FrankenEmber as I call it that show some other additions such as the standoffs and knob that I turned from brass. I am interested in your experience......For me the 6ns7 family tube was better than anything......How do you described the difference with the Frankentube with your 6ns7 ? The 6SN7 family is a dual triode tube. Basically two tubes in one package. The 7193 tube is a single triode or half of the 6SN7 but with the grid and plate contacts coming out of the top of the tube. By separating the two triodes you get much more isolation of the two channels. The 6SN7 is a great tube and I would have been perfectly content with it had I not come across the 7193 and tried it out. To me it seems to add another level of clarity. As they say like someone took a blanket off the speaker. I can listen to a guitar piece now and it seems as though they are playing in front of me. It is said in the audio game that you can never make music sound better you can only make it less worse. (Or something like that). Meaning you can't improve the base music you can only improve the way it gets to the two analog inputs on the side of your head. This is all done in small increments; a new interconnect, a different power cable, cleaning contacts etc. Sorry got on a little rant there. To me I feel like the 7193 tube is one of these increments. It will be interesting to see if anyone else tries it out and either concurs or thinks I'm out of my mind? . By the way I am also a big fan of the Morrow cables.
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Post by David Enos on May 6, 2015 11:20:34 GMT
Thanks for the cable advice, everybody; these discussions are fascinating, and make our hobby fun, and, hopefully rewarding!
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Post by richard51 on May 6, 2015 13:04:13 GMT
I am interested in your experience......For me the 6ns7 family tube was better than anything......How do you described the difference with the Frankentube with your 6ns7 ? The 6SN7 family is a dual triode tube. Basically two tubes in one package. The 7193 tube is a single triode or half of the 6SN7 but with the grid and plate contacts coming out of the top of the tube. By separating the two triodes you get much more isolation of the two channels. The 6SN7 is a great tube and I would have been perfectly content with it had I not come across the 7193 and tried it out. To me it seems to add another level of clarity. As they say like someone took a blanket off the speaker. I can listen to a guitar piece now and it seems as though they are playing in front of me. It is said in the audio game that you can never make music sound better you can only make it less worse. (Or something like that). Meaning you can't improve the base music you can only improve the way it gets to the two analog inputs on the side of your head. This is all done in small increments; a new interconnect, a different power cable, cleaning contacts etc. Sorry got on a little rant there. To me I feel like the 7193 tube is one of these increments. It will be interesting to see if anyone else tries it out and either concurs or thinks I'm out of my mind? . By the way I am also a big fan of the Morrow cables. Thank you very much.....very clear information and very interesting for me....
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Post by richard51 on May 7, 2015 0:07:22 GMT
I am glad you found it. For any others that are interested you can do a search on eBay for 7193 tube and the adapters will show up. There appears to be at least two versions available a white colored one and a clear version. Of course I had to buy both. It's only money right. The clear one seems to be a little better quality IMO. Regardless of which one you get be aware of the placement of the plate and grid caps on the tube. The clear one has them labeled the other not. If you do get the white version I advise ohming out the caps to the pins. Using the data sheet for a 6SN7 measure plate 1 pin to cap for V1 etc. As far as the tubes go I picked these up on eBay as well. Fortunately they sell for fairly cheap. My first set was a pair of RCA's. I then went for a pair of Ken Rad's and I'm glad I did. The RCAs sounded good, super clean. But I think the Ken Rad's are a little fuller. I dont understand...Please explain ( i am not an expert) ? "" If you do get the white version I advise ohming out the caps to the pins "
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solderdude
Administrator
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Post by solderdude on May 7, 2015 5:05:15 GMT
Each tube has 2 top contacts. One is for grid and the other for the plate (anode). If you accidentally switch those wires the tube won't work. So he recommends to use an Ohm meter (Ohming out) to check which cap is connected to which pin on the socket. I understand the PCB or caps do not have markings on it which goes where.
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Post by richard51 on May 7, 2015 12:06:08 GMT
Each tube has 2 top contacts. One is for grid and the other for the plate (anode). If you accidentally switch those wires the tube won't work. So he recommends to use an Ohm meter (Ohming out) to check which cap is connected to which pin on the socket. I understand the PCB or caps do not have markings on it which goes where. Thanks very much solderdude......
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