jello
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Post by jello on Mar 29, 2016 23:01:04 GMT
You've been reading the smart alec on HF haven't you? Moi?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Mar 30, 2016 6:51:12 GMT
Oui, tu!!! Tu es tres mal, Mark. Un mal Garcon.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Mar 31, 2016 20:11:12 GMT
I compared with a Portapro and decided that the bass was too high so now I'm down to two vents covered rather than four. Funny thing istht the top seems to come through stronger as a result.
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Post by marveltone on Apr 1, 2016 0:01:54 GMT
So how does the bass hit? Smooth? Gentle? Crisp? Hard?
I hear the term PRaT come up on other forums. Does this have the energy for rock?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 1, 2016 5:32:22 GMT
PRaT is pace, rhythm and timing. I never always understood this and was something that appeared I think around the 90s. To me, something that was described as having good PRaT sounded quite treble laden which made it sound as though the drivers worked 'fast' or something.
There was a guy who I became very friendly with in the internet called Norman who built these portable amps called GoVibes, and he always went on about PRaT but I always found his designs a bit thin sounding. They were good, but I felt that they needed more 'beef'.
You can tune the bass really to what you'd like with the Fostex and it's easy to go too far. It is thicker bass than some headphones, especially on the Alcantara pads. If you block too many vents, it thickens up the mid bass and alters your perception of the treble. It's very focused and 'concentrated' and not as 'lucid' as an open headphone, although going to something more open seems to make the treble seem a bit too prominent. Going back to the T50 makes its sound seem more comfortable.
I think that its biggest problem is the 'airiness' area. It sounds like a closed headphone, but then, I haven't heard many closed headphones that sound open. The K550 does, but that's way too treble laden for me.
The thing is that you listen on the T50 and might think something isn't quite right. Then go onto something else, where actually it seems worse so you go back!! I went back and forth between various AKG headphones yesterday and the T50 really seems to point out a kind of artificial sounding treble in the AKG's. They're ok, but the T50 seems more natural to me.
It was also funny that I felt that it lacked bass a couple of days ago, only to find it worse on the dt990; especially with the dt990 treble so I went back to the T50 and last night, reduced the bass a little!!
Trouble is, you always think something might not be as good as it could be, only to find it worse on something else!! I think 'tuning' it yourself is a minefield because you become hyper sensitive to minor things, when it could be the recording really. I think I have a pretty good tonal balance now though with just two vents closed up and the rear port closed. That's the beauty of having gear that can make 'comparative' measurements of fr. Relying on your own ears isn't an exact science.
You tend to be critical, only to find that actually, it's better than something else so you end up going back to it!! I was like this for a long time with the Senn hd650 and there are similarities in sound. Bass is more 'concentrated' on the T50.
Although I settle and adjust with most headphones very quickly, what it is, is that I accept its aural flaws and can get past it quite easily. With every headphone that I have though, I never get past the sound seeming as though it's too close and I'm listening next to a pillow. I don't get this open staging that some describe. To me, it's solid, in my head. Maybe it's my eyes telling the brain and I can't get away from that so I settle for what I get. So the closed in nature of the T50 doesn't worry me because I know that it is closed in by memory foam cushions!! To me, a bit like playing in a room with loads of heavy curtains. That doesn't worry me because that is in effect what I'm listening to.
When people describe a stage extending out in front and out of the head, frankly, it puzzles me!
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jello
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Post by jello on Apr 1, 2016 12:07:00 GMT
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 1, 2016 13:05:46 GMT
The driver screws are the ones towards the centre of the cups. The fixing screws are right on the edges, Mark. There are 4 of them, north south east west. No harm if the driver plops off - just screw it back. The pads pull away easily once you get started. The first pull feels a bit tight. Just pull a bit out of the groove and then pull away from the cup. Take out the grey foam around the driver. (The driver screws are under that) Take the baffle off and use electrical tape to cover the vent inside on the back of the cups. Only the bottom vent is open. Doesn't have to be that neat really since it's inside the cups. Be careful of the wiring to the drivers. I did it on a desk so I didn't stress the wiring joints. You have to get the tape under the wiring to cover the vent. Screw the baffles back on and cut about an inch of electrical tape. I did two holes in one by sticking the tape to the baffle first, then push it into the circular edge of the cup and up over the baffle so that the holes on the edges are covered. I found two enough with those pads. I didn't use any acoustic padding in the end, since the drivers became too controlled and restricted sounding. (Overdamped) some put padding into the bottom of the cups so the drivers have space behind them. Don't forget to put the grey driver surround foam back. (Easily done) To get the pads on is a bit fiddly. Get one edge in and hold it in place with your thumb while grabbing the edge of the pad and stretching it over the groove. It will start to automatically go in. The last bit is hardest since it feels tight. Just grap it and stretch it over the lip and it will go. Then juggle to get the pad straight and make sure all of the edges have gone into the groove. That is important for the sound. You will have one helluva headphone!!! If the plug into the left earcup plays up (it generally does from the start), just wiggle it left and right as hard as you can and it self cleans. The joint then never seems to play up again. You will probably find the connection iffy at the start until you brutally wiggle it. I kept going with the headphone on my head until I heard no more noise. Listen loud!!! It goes up so cleanly!! It will be like the Senn - underwhelming at first until you compare with other headphones. That's when you realise that it does a lot more than you first think.
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jello
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Post by jello on Apr 1, 2016 13:38:02 GMT
Brilliant - thanks Ian! Doesn't sound too bad really. I've opened up a couple of pairs of headphones in the past and working at a desk is a very good idea. Both in terms of not stressing the driver wires and it's also far easier to keep track of your screws!! The worst bit seems to be taping up that vent at the back of the cups but any subsequent tuning adjustments should be far less invasive. I'll try and remember to take some pics as I go as it might be useful for anyone else thinking of modding a pair and also to me if I get stuck and need to ask for some help!! I'm looking forward to hearing how these sound both in stock and 'new & improved' form. Loud I can definitely do (in short bursts at least)
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 1, 2016 13:47:43 GMT
It's really easy, Mark. I don't like to tamper but this was worth it.
The drivers really show how clean they are at volume. They just grow with volume and produce no edge. In fact, they really come to life. You need an amp with proper power. Although only 50 ohms, they are very insensitive, which equals low noise too.
I should have taken pics, but it never occurred to me tbh since I wasn't convinced that the changes would be that benficial when I started.
The back is the trickiest part but it dies take a mid bass bloom down so that everything seems 'cleaner'.
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Post by marveltone on Apr 2, 2016 1:56:10 GMT
So, the Starlight should be enough amp for the T50, right? It looks to put out the most power at 64ohms, and it gets my admittedly easy to drive SR80i well beyond deafening at 32ohms. The T50 is sounding more and more like my kind of headphone. Smooth, lush, and utterly customizable.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 2, 2016 7:40:19 GMT
Dammit ... I am going to have to buy one and make a filter for it. This will add the subbass, remove the treble peak and extend the frequency response.
Me needs to measure and hear...
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Post by timjthomas on Apr 2, 2016 12:14:02 GMT
I wonder how the MK3 sounds compared to a modified version 1 -- e.g., Paradox?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 2, 2016 14:44:57 GMT
Mark will know next week.
They have quite a thick sound but very Senn like once modified. As they are, there is a treble peak which berges on sibilance and the pads are quite nasty. I think the new one is better than the Mk 2 but I have way superior pads on it as well. The pads darken the sound slightly so the treble sting is gone.
I think Frams would find thw bass quite raised on mine if he measured the fr
I tried to get mine to resemble the T40 which Frans originally modified for me. So I know it's flat as it can be. I've tuned the mk3 to have a bit more bass though.
The biggest difference seems to come from pad swapping and so maybe, someone will find the ultimate pad for them eventually. The 1540 pads are lovely and they do have the effect of pulling the top down. I don't mind a darker sound though and it takes the sibilance away. Others may find a cheaper alternative since alcantaras are both difficult to get and a daft price. The are like fluffy pillows though so I don't mind using the T50 for longer periods. They also go very loud with no sharpness or edge, whereas stock can become quite strident.
I think the Starlight will power them ok. They do need a good kick or else they seem a bit lifeless. I've been using the Polaris and the Ifi Micro idsd; both having good amounts of power. Modified, I think they need a little more than stock. The important thing is to have enough power for headroom. They will go from lower powered devices but they seem to kick better on e there's some guts behind them. Mind you, the same goes for the old ones too.
I find that I'm going to them now by preference tbh. They're quite odd in that at first, you feel that they're nothing special and they kind of grow on you. Then when you have doubts and go to something else, the something else actually isn't as good. The bif surprise for me was the bass level being as strong as a dt990. Actually, the bass quality is more focused and so really thuds by comparison, so I opened two vents since I felt that maybe I'd adjusted it to blunderbuss levels.
To ally, if bass is on the left and treble on the right, the centre of its sound is a little left of the middle, but that allows life volume with ease!!
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Post by marveltone on Apr 2, 2016 15:16:16 GMT
Dammit ... I am going to have to buy one and make a filter for it. This will add the subbass, remove the treble peak and extend the frequency response. Me needs to measure and hear... Your sacrifices will be duly appreciated!
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jello
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Post by jello on Apr 4, 2016 14:53:26 GMT
Boo...my T50RP arrived today and this is what greeted me when I opened the box. Absolutely no signs of transit damage and the box is pristine. Suspect they shipped that way and the cheapness of the plastic that attaches the headband to the earcup really doesn't inspire much confidence in terms of robustness. First impressions: not great. T50 RiP
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