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Post by chinook9 on Feb 21, 2016 5:21:10 GMT
A number of weeks ago I started out to build a Soekris DAM1021 DAC. I quickly learned, however, that the new Rev 3 Soekris will not be available until March so I decided to build a DIYINHK AD1862 R2R NOS DAC www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/91-ad1862-r2r-isolated-nonoversampling-nos-audio-dac-with-fifo-reclock.html while I wait for the Soekris. I plan to build the AD1862 DAC, power supplies, and USB to I2S adapter and assemble the build with transformers and components required to make it functional. I may eventually replace the AD1862 board with the Soekris board. The Soekris doesn't require the same power supplies and transformers needed by the AD1862 but it will use most of them. I plan to use this thread to ask for help with the build and provide information, and hopefully pictures, that others may find helpful with a similar build.
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Post by chinook9 on Feb 21, 2016 5:23:00 GMT
To start on the DAC build I purchased the following items. My plan is to eventually replace the AD1862 board with the Soekris board. Most of these components will also be used for the Soekris: DIYINHK AD1862 R2R DAC kit with XMOS DSD/DXD 384kHz USB to I2S/DSD $130 DIYINHK 0.8uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-9/12/15V 1.5A*x2 (2 of these needed) $100 DIYINHK 0.8uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator 3.3/5/7V 1.5A*x2 (only use one side of this) $59 two 15V 25VA Antec toroidal transformers $22 one 7V 10VA Antec toriodal transformer $10 IEC connector with filter, fuse holder, and on/off switch $40 20-16124x Par-Metal aluminum enclosure (4x16x12 inches) $100 Variety of wire and connectors
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Post by chinook9 on Feb 21, 2016 5:51:09 GMT
I have completed the 3.3v (X2) power supply www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html (2 PS on one PCB) and I would like to test each side with a dummy load. I plan to use the two secondaries of a 7V 10VA Antec transformer to power each side of the two independent 3.3V power supplies. Is it correct that a load is needed on a regulated PS in order to measure the DC output voltage? I have a couple of 12 Ohm 10watt resistors. Would one of these make a suitable load for each PS?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Feb 21, 2016 8:12:40 GMT
1 of those 12 Ohm ((1W is enough) connected to the reg will simulate the load of the DAC
For the 12V regs you will need a 120 Ohm (2W) load so you could connect 10 of these 12 Ohm ones in series.
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Post by chinook9 on Feb 22, 2016 1:56:32 GMT
Thank you Frans. How do I connect the resistors on the 12v bipolar supplies? I've done some research but haven't found anything that was clear.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Feb 23, 2016 11:00:37 GMT
just connect 10 of each in series. Make 2 strings of 10 resistors.
Connect 1 string between + and common and the other string between - and common.
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Post by chinook9 on Feb 23, 2016 14:50:10 GMT
Thanks Frans. I realized this morning that was what I should do. I probably should have tried before I asked the question. Even with my scant knowledge, I figured that this would not hurt anything and it would test both sides of the PS.
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Post by chinook9 on Mar 1, 2016 2:37:36 GMT
I have now completed the building and testing of all the power supplies. They all work. The AD1862 DAC requires two bipolar 12V PS and one 3.3 PS (Not sure if the DAC needs 3.3V or just passes it through, via the ribbon cable, to the USB to I2S converter which does require 3.3V). The output voltage of the transformer used with each PS is chosen to match the PS output voltage to be used. For the 12V PS I use 15V transformers and for the 3.3V PS I use 7V transformers. The 15V transformers are 25VA and the 7v just 10VA. These should provide adequate power. The first picture shows the 12V PCB and parts laid out prior to construction. I started with the smaller parts on the right and moved counterclockwise. I have already attached the heatsinks with some inexpensive thermal grease. Construction of the 3.3V PS is just about identical to the 12V PS with very minor differences. The second picture is the completed PS with 2 120 ohm resistors (thanks to Frans for the help on this) installed ready for testing. The right picture shows the setup for testing with the transformer and IEC connector. I'm not really good at soldering (getting better, however) so I take my time and each of these took about 2 hours to complete. Midway through this project I jettisoned my CSI 3DLF soldering station and purchased a slightly more expensive Hakko. It made a huge difference. The 3DLF was operating erratically and I couldn't always count on it when I needed heat on a joint. I replaced it with a 65 watt Hakko and really appreciate the reliability. The best $80 I've spent this year. For anyone who's wondering why I am posting this, its because I was unable to find much useful information on these DIYINHK builds. Most DIY audio types can probably just look at the PCB and know what needs to be done but not me. These posts just might help a DIY noobie.
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Mar 1, 2016 10:04:50 GMT
I have now completed the building and testing of all the power supplies. They all work. I'm not really good at soldering (getting better, however) so I take my time and each of these took about 2 hours to complete. Midway through this project I jettisoned my CSI 3DLF soldering station and purchased a slightly more expensive Hakko. It made a huge difference. The 3DLF was operating erratically and I couldn't always count on it when I needed heat on a joint. I replaced it with a 65 watt Hakko and really appreciate the reliability. The best $80 I've spent this year. For anyone who's wondering why I am posting this, its because I was unable to find much useful information on these DIYINHK builds. Most DIY audio types can probably just look at the PCB and know what needs to be done but not me. These posts just might help a DIY noobie. Nice build I was also like you with no experience at soldering, but one of the first things I did find (Like You) is that you need a GOOD soldering station and if the station I have now ever packs in I would spend some time and research and find myself the best one that I could afford, they make such a big difference to the soldered joint along with a really good solder. The solder I am using at the moment is excellent (Future) made by Warton Metals available from Rapid Electronics www.rapidonline.com/Search?query=856372&filterSearchScope=1
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 1, 2016 13:11:18 GMT
Looking good! Hows the DAC going on? Have you started?
Sent from my GT-I9505 using proboards
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Post by chinook9 on Mar 1, 2016 14:27:33 GMT
Thank you Crispy. I will check out the solder you use. I have been using MGChemicals, which seems to be good but as you indicated, anything to make the job easier and better. Hello Javier! All the parts are finished, laid out and connected on my test bench (dresser in the spare bedroom) and I started listening last night. Definitely an appealing sound, and I expect matches better with some headphones than others. Don't want to say much until I do a lot more listening. Here is my test layout: The test layout is not very neat but it was quick and functional. I taped everything down so it could not shift and short out anything. Most of the wiring is just so I could get up and going.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 1, 2016 19:05:49 GMT
Once you've tested a bit in NOS mode I'd suggest you also test using the PC to oversample to the combo's highest supported sample rate which will most probably be 24/384KHz (lowest 4 bits will get truncated but there is nothing relevant there so no probs). IIRC you were using Windows so this can be done (up to 24/192) with Foobar and SOX plugin, some other free and commercial apps will go further, specially HQPlayer which can be optimized for the AD1862 upsampling to 20/384KHz (the AD1862 is a 20bit DAC). Needles to say, if you need need any help with this just drop me a PM. PS. Make sure you get the 2.23 driver from DIYINHK's site and not the older 1.67
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Post by chinook9 on Mar 2, 2016 15:09:02 GMT
I started testing with my Win 10, Foobar laptop at 192KHz. I can't try HQPlayer on that machine because I tried the demo HQPlayer on it about 3 years ago and he only gives one shot at the demo.
Last night I put HQPlayer demo on my Macbook and after fooling around for a while I got it going. In Preferences I had to have Backend set at Coreaudio and Device set at the ASIO driver. It did work however and it did sound as though I was getting the upsampling. Could only do 192KHz so I checked the DIYINHK website and he has some language that seems to indicate that might be the case: "3) Resolution/Sampling Rate: Upto 16,24,32bit / 384KHz (the most significant 20bit is played, the official datasheet of DAC only guarantee work upto 192kHz, 384kHz may work with our CM6631A PCB with MCK always >= 2xBCK)" I'll play around with it more after a while however.
Is there some specific I should set to optimize for the AD1862?
Off to the metal shop this morning to drill (or punch) some holes.
Is there a "best" way to hook up an LED to indicate the power is on? I have one red LED with integrated resistor and I have a number of other colors that would require a resistor. I tried the one with the integrated resistor on both the 12V and 3.3V PS and it worked. I'll use one of those unless is "better" way.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 6, 2016 15:45:36 GMT
I started testing with my Win 10, Foobar laptop at 192KHz. I can't try HQPlayer on that machine because I tried the demo HQPlayer on it about 3 years ago and he only gives one shot at the demo. Last night I put HQPlayer demo on my Macbook and after fooling around for a while I got it going. In Preferences I had to have Backend set at Coreaudio and Device set at the ASIO driver. It did work however and it did sound as though I was getting the upsampling. Could only do 192KHz so I checked the DIYINHK website and he has some language that seems to indicate that might be the case: "3) Resolution/Sampling Rate: Upto 16,24,32bit / 384KHz (the most significant 20bit is played, the official datasheet of DAC only guarantee work upto 192kHz, 384kHz may work with our CM6631A PCB with MCK always >= 2xBCK)" I'll play around with it more after a while however. The 192K limitation may be a Mac's thing. I have no experience with Macs so I can't really say. The AD1862's data sheet spefifies it is 16x capable. 44.1K x 16 -> 705.6K or 48K x 16 -> 768K. Provided you had a USB transport capable of those rates with required bit and word clock, at least in theory, those rates should be playable. Is there some specific I should set to optimize for the AD1862? Yes, in HQPlayer set "DAC bits" to 20 Is there a "best" way to hook up an LED to indicate the power is on? I have one red LED with integrated resistor and I have a number of other colors that would require a resistor. I tried the one with the integrated resistor on both the 12V and 3.3V PS and it worked. I'll use one of those unless is "better" way. That would be a question for Frans... my knowledge of electronics is very limited at best
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Mar 6, 2016 16:59:04 GMT
You can 'adjust' the brightness of a LED by changing the value of the resistor.
For 3V ot 5V values between 330 Ohm and 3.3k are the most common values (depends on the efficiency, voltage and how bright you want the LED. For 12V values between 1k and 100k could be in order. Here too it depends on the efficiency of the LED and how bright you want it.
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