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Post by melkenshawn on Aug 20, 2015 19:32:10 GMT
Hi guys, i finally got to try the franken-ember setup everyone has been raving about. The thing is it is awfully quiet. I sourced the 7193 to 12ax7 converter from ebay and the 7193 tubes were graciously given to me by Demo3. I've set my computer sound to 100%, the project ember itself is also 100%. Yet it still isn't loud enough. Do you guys have any advice on how to solve this issue? Is the converter faulty? Or is it some other issue? Also if it helps, the project ember version im using right now is version 1. Cheers! That adapter probably needs some modifications for it to work with the Ember. Otherwise you will need the Garage1217 12au7 --> 6sn7 adapter and the 6sn7 --> 7193 adapter from ebay. What kind of modifications are we talking about? Cause if its easy, i might be able to do it. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 20, 2015 20:28:52 GMT
The possible mods may be related to the heater pin arrangement.
The Ember 'senses' if the '9-pin' carries a voltage (current) which is the case with 12V tubes but NOT with 6V tubes.
Depending on this current tpin 4 and 5 either get connected to 0V and 6V (for 6V tubes) and 4-5 are connected for 12V tubes.
The 'problem' is that you can either 'fix' pin 4 or pin 5 to 6.3V and connect the other pin either to ground or the other pin.
Technically it doesn't matter which one is chosen BUT it does matter for adapters as these have to be wired in a certain way (either 4 or 5 is connected).
Turns out that the cheaper fleabay adapters can directly be used on all Garage 1217 amps with manual heater select (but has to be set to 12V for 6V tubes) but connects to the wrong pin on the Ember.
The heater thus doesn't receive power in Ember.
For this reason Jeremy made his own adapter which has a 'selector' in it so you can set it to Ember or the other amps.
We thought about changing the 4-5 pin layout in Ember 2 but that would lead to even more confusion so the 'selectable' adapter was born.
Nicer made and shorter as well....
So it may be possible the heater is not wired correctly.
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Post by melkenshawn on Aug 21, 2015 1:28:15 GMT
The possible mods may be related to the heater pin arrangement. The Ember 'senses' if the '9-pin' carries a voltage (current) which is the case with 12V tubes but NOT with 6V tubes. Depending on this current tpin 4 and 5 either get connected to 0V and 6V (for 6V tubes) and 4-5 are connected for 12V tubes. The 'problem' is that you can either 'fix' pin 4 or pin 5 to 6.3V and connect the other pin either to ground or the other pin. Technically it doesn't matter which one is chosen BUT it does matter for adapters as these have to be wired in a certain way (either 4 or 5 is connected). Turns out that the cheaper fleabay adapters can directly be used on all Garage 1217 amps with manual heater select (but has to be set to 12V for 6V tubes) but connects to the wrong pin on the Ember. The heater thus doesn't receive power in Ember. For this reason Jeremy made his own adapter which has a 'selector' in it so you can set it to Ember or the other amps. We thought about changing the 4-5 pin layout in Ember 2 but that would lead to even more confusion so the 'selectable' adapter was born. Nicer made and shorter as well.... So it may be possible the heater is not wired correctly. So i guess i'm screwed then. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 21, 2015 4:48:37 GMT
You don't have to be.
A: Does the heater light up ?
B: Do you feel the sound is normal, as if any other tube was used, but just a little softer ?
These adapters can be opened up and only one wire has to be routed differently.
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Post by jhelms on Aug 21, 2015 14:08:38 GMT
If there is demand for a tiny PCB with attenuation module, I would be happy to make it up for you guys for a more elegant solution to add the module in. I will pose the question in the next mass email I send out which is due at the start of September and see how many Ember owners would like the option.
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Post by thunderhead on Aug 21, 2015 23:46:53 GMT
You don't have to be. A: Does the heater light up ? B: Do you feel the sound is normal, as if any other tube was used, but just a little softer ? These adapters can be opened up and only one wire has to be routed differently. |
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Post by thunderhead on Aug 21, 2015 23:47:47 GMT
Hello Frans, What wire would have to be changed?
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Post by tunkejazz on Aug 22, 2015 12:38:29 GMT
Hello all,
my first post in this forum :-)
I got my Ember a month ago, and I am enjoying it like a kid with a new toy!
I am curious about the linear PSU. Perhaps this is a lame question, but...what kind of improvement can be expected from it? It sounds terrific to my ears!
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Post by thunderhead on Aug 22, 2015 13:58:24 GMT
Hello all, my first post in this forum :-) I got my Ember a month ago, and I am enjoying it like a kid with a new toy! I am curious about the linear PSU. Perhaps this is a lame question, but...what kind of improvement can be expected from it? It sounds terrific to my ears! You ARE a kid with a new toy--that's the beauty of it. You can expect a more quiet amp, especially low frequency hum. I had one for my Starlight.
Welcome to the club!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2015 15:22:03 GMT
Hello all, my first post in this forum :-) I got my Ember a month ago, and I am enjoying it like a kid with a new toy! I am curious about the linear PSU. Perhaps this is a lame question, but...what kind of improvement can be expected from it? It sounds terrific to my ears! You ARE a kid with a new toy--that's the beauty of it. You can expect a more quiet amp, especially low frequency hum. I had one for my Starlight.
Welcome to the club!
Only if you're hearing noise already. If not then it won't do anything. |
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Post by tunkejazz on Aug 22, 2015 17:52:49 GMT
You ARE a kid with a new toy--that's the beauty of it. You can expect a more quiet amp, especially low frequency hum. I had one for my Starlight.
Welcome to the club!
Only if you're hearing noise already. If not then it won't do anything. No noise from the power supply, only some tubes that seem to interfere with the wirelesa in my office. Curiously, there is a corner on my table where the amp is totally silent :-) |
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solderdude
Administrator
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Posts: 4,886
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Post by solderdude on Aug 22, 2015 18:38:38 GMT
Hello Frans, What wire would have to be changed? The wires from the heater of the tube need to go to pin 4 and pin 9 of the pins on the Noval side. Possibly the heater wires now go to 5-9 or 4-5 IF the heater doesn't work. HERE is more info on adapters |
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Post by thunderhead on Aug 22, 2015 23:20:50 GMT
MYSTERY SOLVED
As usual Frans hit it on the head. The 12AU7 to 7193 adapter arrived today. The quality and workmanship is actually very good.
It did not work in the Sunrise 2; quiet just like the Ember--6 or 12 volt setting. The heater filaments both glowed though.
I whipped out the DVM and went to town. What I found is that pins 5 and 4 were jumpered and went to one of the 7193 heater pins and pin 9 went to the other heater pin. The 7193 heaters are wired in series. I cut the jumper and moved the pin 9 wire to pin 4.
Tried it in the Sunrise first and they biased nicely at 12 volts. Sounded great.
Moved it to the Ember and the auto bias worked flawlessly. Sounds phenomenal.
So now the adapter works back and forth between the amps, HOWEVER, it is about 1/4 inch too short to clear the output caps. I was prepared for that as I have two 9 pin socket savers.
So are you screwed? I would say yes. The shipping costs to modify it would be about the same as buying the 6SN7 to 7193 adapter. I say that because it will work right away. It comes from the same seller as the 6SN7 to 7193. Now that would require the excellent Jeremy 6SN7 adapter also. That is a bonus as you can also try the 6SN7. Now I have the "task" of comparing the 7193 to the 6SN7.
I have been soldering computer motherboards and other electronics for three decades and have an industrial grade soldering station and it was not easy. If you wish to spend the shipping costs, I am willing to help you OR Jeremy would I am sure as you are an Ember customer.
CHEERS!!! |
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howie
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Post by howie on Aug 23, 2015 0:41:54 GMT
I tried the 7193 to 12AU7 adapter in my Starlight and Horizon and both work fine. Any reason why it doesn't work with the Sunrise?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2015 6:26:18 GMT
MYSTERY SOLVED
As usual Frans hit it on the head. The 12AU7 to 7193 adapter arrived today. The quality and workmanship is actually very good.
It did not work in the Sunrise 2; quiet just like the Ember--6 or 12 volt setting. The heater filaments both glowed though.
I whipped out the DVM and went to town. What I found is that pins 5 and 4 were jumpered and went to one of the 7193 heater pins and pin 9 went to the other heater pin. The 7193 heaters are wired in series. I cut the jumper and moved the pin 9 wire to pin 4.
Tried it in the Sunrise first and they biased nicely at 12 volts. Sounded great.
Moved it to the Ember and the auto bias worked flawlessly. Sounds phenomenal.
So now the adapter works back and forth between the amps, HOWEVER, it is about 1/4 inch too short to clear the output caps. I was prepared for that as I have two 9 pin socket savers.
So are you screwed? I would say yes. The shipping costs to modify it would be about the same as buying the 6SN7 to 7193 adapter. I say that because it will work right away. It comes from the same seller as the 6SN7 to 7193. Now that would require the excellent Jeremy 6SN7 adapter also. That is a bonus as you can also try the 6SN7. Now I have the "task" of comparing the 7193 to the 6SN7.
I have been soldering computer motherboards and other electronics for three decades and have an industrial grade soldering station and it was not easy. If you wish to spend the shipping costs, I am willing to help you OR Jeremy would I am sure as you are an Ember customer.
CHEERS!!! Haven't you missed some quotation marks here? Perhaps a credit to the originator wouldn't go amiss either. |
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