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Post by darkarn on Feb 9, 2017 3:47:57 GMT
I think you will find the Ember to an excellent amp. I love mine. Works so well with so any headphones. Thanks! I just hope it can come sooner! Its status: "Arrived from overseas (Country code:US), in transit to next processing centre for delivery" |
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Post by darkarn on Feb 23, 2017 18:06:34 GMT
Finally, the kit is with me!
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Post by darkarn on Feb 26, 2017 12:44:09 GMT
Hi guys, my Project Ember tube amp kit is finally here! And I decided to show you all a livestream of me unboxing and then making the amp from scratch! I am going live at here now (short notice I know, sorry!): www.youtube.com/channel/UC2XodiiueQ_k2sFFwKMwBJw/liveSee you all! |
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Rabbit
Administrator
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Post by Rabbit on Feb 26, 2017 19:48:46 GMT
Blimey, did you get it open in the middle of the night?  Glad it all got there. Wait until you hear it ..... Superb amp. |
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Post by darkarn on Feb 26, 2017 20:16:54 GMT
Yeah, it is now 4AM here! Bad news is, I can't get the amp to work!  I think I saw something smoke. Now I can see the LED working, right heater working, but no sound at all and the headphone protection circuit does not even light up when switched on. I got a real bad feeling about this.. |
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solderdude
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measureutternutter
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Post by solderdude on Feb 26, 2017 22:04:36 GMT
Bummer .. Not to worry.
Will slowly talk you through repair.
First check each part for damage and check all solderwork.
Check if each component is the proper type/value and check the orientation.
Then it will be time for some measurements.
When something is wrong in the relay circuit there will be no sound and the LED won't switch off but the amp may actually be working properly.
The relay circuit does not check if the amp is functioning normally.
It just switches the relay after a set time and switches the output off fast when the power supply is off.
Check with 12V and 6V tubes whether or not just 1 or 2 tube halves are glowing.
When only 1 half works check the tube socket and see if all the tupe pin contacts are touching the pins properly.
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Post by darkarn on Feb 27, 2017 7:07:26 GMT
Thanks Frans! Now let's see...
Damage check: All parts look fine, R18 looks iffy though
Solder check: Looks fine too, I think?
Component and orientation check: Correct I think
Measurement check: Not sure what to start with; am still trying to understand the schematics
Tube heater: Tested with other 12AU7 tubes and a 6SN7 tube, only 1 tube half glowing. Does this mean I need to resolder the tube socket?
Sidenote: I am running out of the Kester solder too; may have to use my Oyaide silver solder or even the normal 66/37 solder
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Post by darkarn on Feb 27, 2017 7:54:25 GMT
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Feb 27, 2017 8:45:29 GMT
The 3 big SMD IC's MUST have their tabs soldered to the PCB.
I spotted a few solderjoints that may need some reflowing.
The problem is you soldered the relays in the wrong position.
The 5V relay should have been soldered near the tube socket.
The 48V relay near the front.
Because of this the auto heater select won't work (the 1 heater problem) because the 48V relay is not energised (receives 6V)
and the 5V relay will probably have burnt out and or the transistors around it because it has seen 48V over its coil and because of the low resistance of the coil the transistors may have had too much current.
Getting the relays out (in one piece) will be a very difficult task.
You will have to heat all its pins at the same time and when all solder is flowing GENTLY pull the relays out.
do NOT apply force when pulling the relays or you may rip out one or more through hole metalisations.
Then you need to remove the solder from the holes which also is a biatch because the PCB is so thick.
I figure when you have replaced the relays (would use new ones) and maybe the Q1 and Q2 near that relay it will probably work as expected.
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Post by darkarn on Feb 27, 2017 10:27:20 GMT
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solderdude
Administrator
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Post by solderdude on Feb 27, 2017 11:10:53 GMT
Those are the correct parts.
When those parts are already soldered on the board by Jeremy then they are likely soldered onto the board.
Jeremy uses paste under the parts so it's not visible'.
I assumed you soldered these on yourself.
You can forget that remark in this case as they are already soldered.
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Post by darkarn on Feb 27, 2017 11:32:06 GMT
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solderdude
Administrator
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Post by solderdude on Feb 27, 2017 12:54:42 GMT
If possible I would look for either a BC5x6B or BC5x6C
512-BC546BTF
512-BC556BTA
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Post by darkarn on Feb 27, 2017 15:49:28 GMT
Thanks, one of the shops I called told me they have the actual BC546 and BC556 in stock; I will go get them tomorrow and see if they are indeed exactly the same as on the amp by comparing the engraving on them; I hope this is a reliable enough way of comparing it
Either way, I will have to order the relays online, but as to from which online shop, it will depend on how the BC546 and BC556 look like when I get it from the shop...
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Post by darkarn on Feb 28, 2017 4:12:29 GMT
I got the BC546 and BC556 from the shop. Looks largely the same except slight differences in the engravings.
Kit: BC5x6 G3x
Shop: BC5x6 BK6xx
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