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Post by ronzo56 on Jun 2, 2015 23:22:47 GMT
Wow! That's just how mine looks right now, same tube even. But I have got to a get bigger knob! A big ole' American knob. Maybe have to put the amp up on a stand so the knob can clear the tabletop. Maybe I can adapt the steering wheel of a '57 Chevy!
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Post by jhelms on Jun 3, 2015 0:17:42 GMT
Wow! That's just how mine looks right now, same tube even. But I have got to a get bigger knob! A big ole' American knob. Maybe have to put the amp up on a stand so the knob can clear the tabletop. Maybe I can adapt the steering wheel of a '57 Chevy! hahaha damn right! Needs tailfins too and CHROME
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Post by richard51 on Jun 3, 2015 0:41:04 GMT
is it difficult to insert a new volume pot? This black volume pot is very beautiful....i dont want to destruct anything...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 0:45:52 GMT
is it difficult to insert a new volume pot? This black volume pot is very beautiful....i dont want to destruct anything... No, it's easy. You'll need a tiny (not sure what exact size but probably 2mm) allen key to do it though.
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Post by richard51 on Jun 3, 2015 0:54:06 GMT
i apologize for my ignorance but what do you do with this allen key?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 1:03:51 GMT
Sorry Richard, They're called Allen keys here but in America they're known as hex keys so maybe you know them by that descriptor. Anyway, the knob is mounted on a shaft & the screw is on the outside edge and tightens down on to this shaft. Like in this picture..
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Post by richard51 on Jun 3, 2015 1:08:47 GMT
thank you very much......i understand..... i wish you the best my friend....
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 1:20:12 GMT
No problem.
Gordon.
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Post by musicman on Jun 3, 2015 2:38:32 GMT
Looks really good musicmanThe metal chassis have more height related to acrylic? I don't know if has been covered but I want to know what exactly input capacitors do and how they alter the sound bypassing it. Thanks! The metal chassis plates and the acrylic are the same height. The metal plates give it a little more weight and it does not slide as easily, bypassing the input caps does not have much if any effect on signal, they help eliminate the volume pot scratchiness. Some pots make a little noise when turned, pretty normal, with the input caps in the circuit the noise from the mechanical link in the pot is eliminated. I tried both ways, with the caps bypassed, I could hear a little scratchiness when turning the volume pot, but did not hear any benefit so left the caps in the circuit. I did not think I would like the metal chassis plates as much as I do. In my opinion when the demo is sent around for reviews they should be included. Makes a much nicer package, there are other amps out there that look similar to the Ember, but not with the metal plates. The other open frame amps are all plastic and do not look nearly as nice as the matte black plates on the Ember.
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Post by richard51 on Jun 3, 2015 2:44:09 GMT
good night musicman...do you have listened to your kenrad tubes?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 9:41:15 GMT
Looks really good musicmanThe metal chassis have more height related to acrylic? I don't know if has been covered but I want to know what exactly input capacitors do and how they alter the sound bypassing it. Thanks! The metal chassis plates and the acrylic are the same height. The metal plates give it a little more weight and it does not slide as easily, bypassing the input caps does not have much if any effect on signal, they help eliminate the volume pot scratchiness. Some pots make a little noise when turned, pretty normal, with the input caps in the circuit the noise from the mechanical link in the pot is eliminated. I tried both ways, with the caps bypassed, I could hear a little scratchiness when turning the volume pot, but did not hear any benefit so left the caps in the circuit. I did not think I would like the metal chassis plates as much as I do. In my opinion when the demo is sent around for reviews they should be included. Makes a much nicer package, there are other amps out there that look similar to the Ember, but not with the metal plates. The other open frame amps are all plastic and do not look nearly as nice as the matte black plates on the Ember. This is an odd one. I heard a difference (more air) when I by-passed the caps on the tour unit which was a MkI and so also heard the scratchiness. However on the MkII there's no scratchiness but there's also much less of an improvement in air when the caps are by-passed. I have no idea why this is the case.
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solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,882
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Post by solderdude on Jun 3, 2015 12:31:49 GMT
A tube without bypass caps is differently biased in the mk-II compared to the original Ember. The 'effect' also differs per volume control setting in the original, not so with the mkII which doesn't alter its bias when adjusting the volume control in 'input cap bypass' mode.
The scratch was something a few people fell over. It is quite easy to revert the input circuit back to the original Ember configuration but ivolves soldering a wire and means the pot 'scratches' again during volume adjustment.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 14:42:17 GMT
No need for that Frans. The amp sounds superb as it is!
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JGlatz
valued member
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Post by JGlatz on Jun 3, 2015 18:03:02 GMT
Hey Musicman, any updates on the 7193s. I have listened to the VT-232 tubes and they are excellent also if I had to choose I would probably go with the 7193. I think the soundfield is a little wider, kind of like you were sitting a few rows closer to the band. If anyone tries the VT-232 be aware that the plate caps are on the opposite side of the 7193.
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z3d
quite active
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Post by z3d on Jun 3, 2015 19:33:34 GMT
A tube without bypass caps is differently biased in the mk-II compared to the original Ember. The 'effect' also differs per volume control setting in the original, not so with the mkII which doesn't alter its bias when adjusting the volume control in 'input cap bypass' mode. The scratch was something a few people fell over. It is quite easy to revert the input circuit back to the original Ember configuration but ivolves soldering a wire and means the pot 'scratches' again during volume adjustment. Why in the mk-I version the bias changes at the variation of the volume potentiometer? Also, doing the mod in the mk-I version to avoid the scratches (adding a 10 k resistor in series with the wiper of the volpot ) will change the behaviour or the bias will be altered anyway?
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