Post by solderdude on Sept 16, 2017 7:23:03 GMT
Someone sent in their HE6 to have the SMC connector (which broke, probably fell on the cable one time).
This gave me a great opportunity to measure it and listen to one.
Note this is the early 4 screw version which is brighter than the later 6 screw which is tuned 'darker' and closer to the LCD2.
Not a wise move but understandable from Fang's p.o.v.
Anyway... One of the connectors broke and needed replacement.
As I can't find suitable and locking 2.5mm sockets it was decided to simply replace the SMC connector.
The original connector is a 'crimp' version for which special tools are needed so a solder version was used.
tutorial below:
remove the ring. This is easy. Just pry it loose with your finger nail (don't use tools, they can make scratches).
It has 4 notches on it which ensure it doesn't rotate and grabs under 4 small holes.
When placing them back find the holes and allign the notches.
Next you take out all the stuff till you get to the rear of the driver.
Then make a small circle from paper that fits into the cup and put it on the driver.
The reason for that is you don't want anything to fall into the driver. Most certainly not metal pieces.
So the paper is there to protect the driver.
Desolder one wire and clip-off the one coming out of the center.
Remove the connector by turning it into the direction of the red arrow.
As can be seen some small debri has dropped on the paper so it is definitely there for a reason.
Below the broken one and the new one side by side.
The new one goes in...
Tighten it but don't overdo it. Chances are you rip out the threading.
Just make sure it is 'handtight'.
Solder on the wires.
As this headphone, strangely enough, has its absolute polarity reversed (you cannot hear this) you can 'correct' this at this point by soldering the wire that came from the center contact to the chassis part and what came of the chassis part to the center pin of the new socket.
In this case it was left as it originally was.
Solder the wires onto the connector and let it cool off.
After that apply some glue (preferably 2 component) around the connector to prevent it from rotating.
Perhaps apply some glue to the flange of the socket before putting it in.
Apply the glue using non-ferrous materials.
The magnetic field around the driver is huge and using a metal screwdriver is a NO-NO.
I used the tip of a small ty-wrap but something like a matchstick will also be O.K.... just no metal objects.
Then carefully remove the paper (with the debri on it) so that material doesn't fall off when removing the paper.
Then simply put all the stuff back in reverse order of what came out during disassmbly.
This gave me a great opportunity to measure it and listen to one.
Note this is the early 4 screw version which is brighter than the later 6 screw which is tuned 'darker' and closer to the LCD2.
Not a wise move but understandable from Fang's p.o.v.
Anyway... One of the connectors broke and needed replacement.
As I can't find suitable and locking 2.5mm sockets it was decided to simply replace the SMC connector.
The original connector is a 'crimp' version for which special tools are needed so a solder version was used.
tutorial below:
remove the ring. This is easy. Just pry it loose with your finger nail (don't use tools, they can make scratches).
It has 4 notches on it which ensure it doesn't rotate and grabs under 4 small holes.
When placing them back find the holes and allign the notches.
Next you take out all the stuff till you get to the rear of the driver.
Then make a small circle from paper that fits into the cup and put it on the driver.
The reason for that is you don't want anything to fall into the driver. Most certainly not metal pieces.
So the paper is there to protect the driver.
Desolder one wire and clip-off the one coming out of the center.
Remove the connector by turning it into the direction of the red arrow.
As can be seen some small debri has dropped on the paper so it is definitely there for a reason.
Below the broken one and the new one side by side.
The new one goes in...
Tighten it but don't overdo it. Chances are you rip out the threading.
Just make sure it is 'handtight'.
Solder on the wires.
As this headphone, strangely enough, has its absolute polarity reversed (you cannot hear this) you can 'correct' this at this point by soldering the wire that came from the center contact to the chassis part and what came of the chassis part to the center pin of the new socket.
In this case it was left as it originally was.
Solder the wires onto the connector and let it cool off.
After that apply some glue (preferably 2 component) around the connector to prevent it from rotating.
Perhaps apply some glue to the flange of the socket before putting it in.
Apply the glue using non-ferrous materials.
The magnetic field around the driver is huge and using a metal screwdriver is a NO-NO.
I used the tip of a small ty-wrap but something like a matchstick will also be O.K.... just no metal objects.
Then carefully remove the paper (with the debri on it) so that material doesn't fall off when removing the paper.
Then simply put all the stuff back in reverse order of what came out during disassmbly.
