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Post by micmacmo on Sept 30, 2014 5:40:17 GMT
Excellent. Thanks for the explanation, Frans. I've been happy with the high BW setting (which means I'm happy with the mid BW setting). If I was missing something audible, I might have sent it back in for a retrofit. But I'll keep my Polaris here and enjoy it instead of fretting about the numbers.
BTW, it's a really great design, Frans. I'm sorry I won't be able to play with the bandwidth settings, but a great sounding amp that sounds great with a range of cans and IEMs is pretty special.
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asr
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Post by asr on Sept 30, 2014 7:48:55 GMT
yeah, i thought it odd to mention amps that cost up to $3k (gsx and myzic) and then say "so I can sort of take a stab at how the Polaris might live up to most people's expectations". and then use the headphones he did!! i would have thought most people would not have heard a $3k amp anyway. It's quite funny that the more reviews I read now, the more I look into who is writing them and if possible I try to listen to the gear and compare what I think with what they write, so that I can 'identify' with the reviewers. Unfortunately, in spite of the massive numbers on HF, I find very few that are feel have any authority or real knowledge about what they're saying. The trouble is that they kind of create a mass craving for some things which leads to loads of sales, often based on some rather weird reviews. I found that particular one weird and feel that there was an underlying reason for the way it was done since the comparisons were a bit odd. You'd think that it woud be more sensible to look at the budget and compare around the same costings. I don't know why so many hi fi people compare chep things with utra expensive and then tell you hw the cheap thing isn't as good!! Surprise, surprise. We all know of things that punch above their price level, but they are great value and so, in my eyes, good stuff. I can find a lot of merit in really cheap items if the competition at the same price isn't close. The little nx1 amp is one of them, which I got at a ridiculus £21, so in my eyes, it's a great piece of gear for someone on really tight budgets. Horses for courses I guess. I didn't step in on the unfairness of that review since I haven't heard a Polaris yet, but I would have if I knew more about it. I didn't like the unfairness of it if I'm honest. I also felt that the reviewer hadn't seen the intended purpose of the amp, which produces a richness of tubes in it's timbre but is essentially SS with configurability. He seems to have missed its USP and blindly compared it some something that is kind of irrelevant in that particular market. Oh well....... the fairness of critics .... I've always hated them!!! First, I hadn't heard of this forum before and only discovered it because someone linked to this thread on Head-Fi. Normally I wouldn't bother to "sign up and post" in a forum that's completely unknown to me, but I'm compelled to point out an inaccuracy about your post: The Project Polaris is $250 (built). The comparison amp that I used (the HeadAmp Gilmore Lite, based on Kevin Gilmore's "open-source" Dynalo circuit) cost $300 when it was first released in 2005. The Schiit Asgard, which I also mentioned in the review, cost $250 when it came out (same for the Asgard 2, mentioned at the end). The Micromega MyZic, also mentioned, costs $270. I did not, as you seem to imply, compare the Polaris to an amp that was much more expensive than it. The reference to a $3K amp was just a passing reference, not a comparison, which anyone can tell by reading the review. I've been in the headphone hobby since 2006 and have owned gear all over the map from budget-level to high-end - that's what I meant to convey with the passing reference to having owned a $3K amp. Your post also makes it seem like that I tried to write a negative review of the Polaris, when I didn't. It was a positive review in favor of the Polaris and I made sure to try to mention everything positive that I could say about the amp (and Garage1217 too). So I mentioned a few subjective flaws, so what? I also listed a bunch of strengths that the Polaris had over my comparison amp. For you to call my review unfair makes me question if you actually read the whole thing.
As for the reaction to my comment of the Polaris lacking speed & agility: it was a subjective perception relative to the HeadAmp Gilmore Lite, and not an objective measurement. I'm aware that the Polaris' impulse response may very well measure fast, but that's just not how I heard it personally. It didn't audibly match the Gilmore Lite's percussive hit-impact, nor its fast bass slam (and recovery), in the specific set of music CDs that I used (consisting of electronica & metal). No need to get all worked up about it in any case, I'm just one person and that's how I heard it. Others may very well hear it differently, as more people continue to buy it.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Sept 30, 2014 10:21:17 GMT
Welcome to the forum.
Thanks for clarifying the situation and giving your honest opinion. I read your review and didn't view it as negative instead you mentioned a few time that it is real value for money and its configurability. Everyone is entitled to his opinion and think what you wrote is an honest review.
I too have a lack of understanding where the 'lacking speed' could originate from though as the amp itself is technically capable of high speeds. But that's not what sometimes is perceived when doing subjective evaluations.
I thought it might have had something to do with the BW settings but Jeremy mentioned you had the R1.1 on 'wide setting' so that couldn't be it.
I have one question though, and that is if you also found the agility to be lacking on low output R as in the review you only mentioned the output R was set in the 'mid' position based on the Ember experiences. It is this functionality (the output R settings) that can make or break a 'match' with a headphone. That setting may be very different with different headphones. A high(er) output R setting often reduces 'agility' and with some headphones can make the bass sound very muddy. In other headphones it may add some warmth and remove 'sharp edges'. Did you experiment with the output R settings when changing headphones ?
The Gilmore lite also has JFET input and bipolar output (but his are symmetrical) and is comparable. On a test bench they will probably be about equally fast. Kevin makes some really nice and well designed amps.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Sept 30, 2014 15:53:44 GMT
Hello ASR and welcome to DIYAH.
The Polaris imitates a tube like sound so it's kind of not supposed to sound SS if you see what I mean. So comparisons with other SS would point out tonal things going on in the Polaris that won't be happening in others. I was puzzled by the lack of speed and thought that perhaps the tonal sound of the amp was giving you the impression of a lack of speed. You know, how some say the HD650 doesn't sound like a fast headphone or lacks extension, when in fact it is very fast and does extend a long way up. (Although at lower volume than many others up there)
I found your review very interesting and was going to reply earlier but felt I shouldn't until I heard one, so Jeremy is sending one over to me. In fact, the one you listened to and it should be here in a week or so. I Have an Ember and will listen to the two of them. (Although I'm kind of tuned in to the Ember now)
I'm not keen on seeing one thing compared with others since (with headphones especially), switching between them for comparisons can really skew what you think. One may sound flashier than the other on a quick comparison but is not necessarily better.
I guess I am very protective of Jeremy and Frans but did say to Jeremy that I think the review reads a bit stronger than meant. I enjoyed the review in fact but don't like this putting one thing up against another, since it inevitably leads people to go on and on about what is the best then? Especially on HF!!
Your review kind of sparked off a board discussion here big time since we were wondering which board you had in order to see why you didn't find it a fast amp. I find the Ember to be like lightening, but tonally, it's a tube amp, giving that weighty laid back feel. That has now led to poor Jeremy being bombarded with PM's regarding the changing of the board and updating Polaris boards when they don't really need to. It has given him a hard time.
I respect your review and opinions but experience has taught me not to put other things up against items since comparative comments can be quite negative sounding while not always being true.
I use a very unremarkable sounding T40 with a filter. Flat as a pancake and more extended than T40s that have just been modded physically, due to its filter. It sounds totally unremarkable and compared to other headphones, perhaps dull. That sounds negative. In fact, that is its strength because nothing really stands out and I continually find that flashy headphones sound great in the short term, until you want something different.
That's how I felt reading it and my protective instincts kicked in. I'm sure you're very experienced and I see you are a Suzuki method violinist. I am a pro musician and have worked with headphones in studios and on electronic music since the 70s, but That really doesn't make me an expert on hi fi. In fact, I often find musicians to be the worst reviewers since we are all so good at replacing missing information via our brains. Something that non musicians find hard to do. Therefore, I find myself much more tolerant of gear than many I guess. As a musician though, I am extremely sensitive to timbre and that is what I feel you took for the amp being 'slow'. It doesn't measure slow but if you hear a tube like sound on an SS amp, you may well 'think' it is slow; especially if you start to go between amps.
That's where I thought the point of the Polaris had been missed in your review. I took it as a positive review on the whole, especially with regards to value for money but it does have a specific target audience and is not really like most other SS amps. it is quite unique and that doesn't really come across.
In case you're unaware, I'm iancraig10 on HF.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Sept 30, 2014 17:22:25 GMT
To clarify some more about the Bandwidth. Below the plots of the Polaris, when fitted with the values as per my suggestion and as it will ship in the near future. This is the bandwidth at max output power AND loaded with 30 Ohm load. green trace = 'high BW' blue trace = 'mid BW' orange trace = 'low BW' 1kHz and below is of course the same for all 3 settings so the green trace 'covers' the other plots. Those that currently have a Rev 1.0 board: blue trace = 'high BW' blue trace = 'mid BW' (is the same as high BW) orange trace = 'low BW' The current production Polaris (rev 1.1) is shown below: green trace = 'high BW' orange trace = 'mid BW' red trace = 'low BW'
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Post by micmacmo on Sept 30, 2014 17:50:23 GMT
asr, thanks for your followup. I found your review on HF to be fair and, overall, very positive. Certainly nothing that you should feel the need to defend. (At the very least, I'd guess it will improve sales.)
Frans, thanks for the graphs. They distinguish between the boards simply and precisely.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Sept 30, 2014 19:27:25 GMT
yeah, i thought it odd to mention amps that cost up to $3k (gsx and myzic) and then say "so I can sort of take a stab at how the Polaris might live up to most people's expectations". and then use the headphones he did!! i would have thought most people would not have heard a $3k amp anyway. Hi Asr, welcome again! when i made the above comment it was shortly after reading this quote from your review..... "With the exception of the original Schiit Asgard, I haven't heard many of the under-$500 solid-state AC-powered amps in the market, especially recently, so I can't really say how the Polaris stacks up against any other currently available amps. But I've heard plenty of other solid-state AC-powered amps over the years, most of them more expensive than the Polaris (all the way up to the $3K USD HeadAmp GS-X MK2),and most recently the Micromega MyZic, which I had last year and retails for the same price , so I can sort of take a stab at how the Polaris might live up to most people's expectations." i admit now that i misunderstood what you were saying. when you said............ "and most recently the Micromega MyZic, which I had last year and retails for the same price" i thought you were referring back to the $3k gsx! instead of the polaris! so please accept my apology for this. Simon
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Sept 30, 2014 19:37:29 GMT
having said the above. i still say after reading the review the "audio quality" score on the chart at the top of the page did not (imo) reflect what was said in the review.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Sept 30, 2014 20:12:33 GMT
The 'cons' at the top refer to lack of clarity and speed. Frans is saying it measures as fast as the other amp used to compare it with and I wonder whether the lack of clarity and 'extra bass weight' is due to the fact that it is designed to give a flavour of the tube sound which can seem more bassy than most SS amps in any case.
The cons seem to state (to me) that it sounds like a tube amp which is what it's supposed to do. It's not trying to sound like a Gilmore.
On high BW, it's going way beyond the threshold of hearing and headphones won't go up there.
The spacial thing is what I get with the Ember though. That seems to have good imaging as well.
I guess I find the review a little confusing in that it mentions lack of speed and clarity and yet it's also been put as a great budget headphone amp and a really good value buy. I also took the paragraph that you read Simon, the same way as you did.
The joys of writing .......
It's not a bad review or saying anything awful, it's the speed and clarity thing that I don't get.
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asr
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Post by asr on Oct 1, 2014 5:43:23 GMT
I have one question though, and that is if you also found the agility to be lacking on low output R as in the review you only mentioned the output R was set in the 'mid' position based on the Ember experiences. It is this functionality (the output R settings) that can make or break a 'match' with a headphone. That setting may be very different with different headphones. A high(er) output R setting often reduces 'agility' and with some headphones can make the bass sound very muddy. In other headphones it may add some warmth and remove 'sharp edges'. Did you experiment with the output R settings when changing headphones ? The Gilmore lite also has JFET input and bipolar output (but his are symmetrical) and is comparable. On a test bench they will probably be about equally fast. Kevin makes some really nice and well designed amps. All of my comments on speed & agility should also be taken into context with the headphones that I used to gauge it, the Audio-Technica AD2000 (which has been independently measured by Tyll on InnerFidelity.com and purrin on Changstar.com if you're interested in its graphs). And for the AD2000, I used only the low R setting for it. I previously experimented with the output R settings back when I reviewed the Project Ember, when I found that I did sonically prefer low R for the AD2000 (and I did try the other settings just to hear their effect). I changed the output R to suit the headphones that I was using—low for the AD2000, HD598, and CAL; med for the AKG K712 (I didn't like how high R sounded with the K712). The Polaris is also not the first amp that I've compared to the Gilmore Lite and thought it to be slow in comparison. In fact, to that point, I've found almost all amps have been slow in comparison to the GL (or related GS-1 or GS-X, which use the same circuit). By slow, I mean specifically that fast-attack sequences in music (especially percussion) typically sound "blunted" instead of sharp & clean. While some would call that treble, I've also found that many amps also produce plodgy bass compared to the GL and do not sound clean there either. The GL has an ultra-tight response in both the bass and treble that perfectly matches the AD2000, and when I play fast music on the combo, there's never anything even a little bit plodgy- or blunt-sounding. Really just an ultra-quick response that's particularly able to power through heavy bass passages with ease and not sound muddled. The Polaris sounded just a bit muddled to me in comparison. Again, it wasn't unique. I've had the muddled experience before with many other amps as well, including some very expensive ones like the Luxman P-1u as just one example. Someone once told me that it's because the GL is a push-pull amp while the others have been single-ended (and that I'd be disappointed with all single-ended amps for that reason—because I wouldn't find them "fast"), but I'm not sure if that totally explains everything. I'm not keen on seeing one thing compared with others since (with headphones especially), switching between them for comparisons can really skew what you think. One may sound flashier than the other on a quick comparison but is not necessarily better. I guess I am very protective of Jeremy and Frans but did say to Jeremy that I think the review reads a bit stronger than meant. I enjoyed the review in fact but don't like this putting one thing up against another, since it inevitably leads people to go on and on about what is the best then? Especially on HF!! That's how I felt reading it and my protective instincts kicked in. I'm sure you're very experienced and I see you are a Suzuki method violinist. I am a pro musician and have worked with headphones in studios and on electronic music since the 70s, but That really doesn't make me an expert on hi fi. In fact, I often find musicians to be the worst reviewers since we are all so good at replacing missing information via our brains. Something that non musicians find hard to do. Therefore, I find myself much more tolerant of gear than many I guess. As a musician though, I am extremely sensitive to timbre and that is what I feel you took for the amp being 'slow'. It doesn't measure slow but if you hear a tube like sound on an SS amp, you may well 'think' it is slow; especially if you start to go between amps. I don't worry about what people on Head-Fi think about my reviews, and I purposely try to avoid using the word "best" in anything I write because it's inherently subjective. The reason I compare gear is to provide a baseline for people that have heard my point of comparison. I always try to avoid writing about something on its own because that's useless IMO. I could describe a certain piece of gear a certain way and everyone could disagree with me. But if I use something else that others have heard, and then say the review unit has more bass, or more treble, or more soundstage, then IMO that becomes more useful. If I didn't compare the Polaris to another amp, I wouldn't have bothered trying to review it, it would've been just a useless waste of time to me. The only reason I mention in reviews that I'm a musician is because I'd expect most readers to NOT be musicians and to not have any frame of reference as to how instruments really sound live and up-close. Since I have that frame of reference from performing with other musicians, I sometimes use it to determine how "natural" a certain piece of gear sounds (usually headphones, not amps). I feel like I have to reiterate that the Polaris was reviewed relative to the GL and that I felt it was slowER in comparison. Not that it was slow period. It was perfectly acceptable-sounding to me on its own. As you said, I thought it sounded slow as I went between the two amps. Perhaps if you get a chance to audition a Gilmore Lite yourself one day, you might understand my perspective here. having said the above. i still say after reading the review the "audio quality" score on the chart at the top of the page did not (imo) reflect what was said in the review. Those bar graph scores are never displayed correctly on Head-Fi, I meant to put the Audio Quality one at around 75%, and just a bit under the other 3. The forum software doesn't correctly convert the scale when doing the final post—what looks like a little bit in the preview usually ends up being a wide margin.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Oct 1, 2014 12:05:53 GMT
Someone once told me that it's because the GL is a push-pull amp while the others have been single-ended (and that I'd be disappointed with all single-ended amps for that reason—because I wouldn't find them "fast"), but I'm not sure if that totally explains everything. The Ember, Polaris and starlight are all Push-Pull, only Sunrise and Horizon are single ended. Single ended or push-pull is just a topology difference and hasn't got anything to do with actual speed but may very well do so subjectively.
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dpump
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Post by dpump on Oct 1, 2014 13:31:21 GMT
Being an early adopter is always a bit of a risk although it certainly shouldn't be. In this case the Polaris was marketed before I checked and tweaked it. The other amps all passed 'inspection' before being released. There are 4 (err.. now 5) options. 1: delete C11 and have only 2 BW settings left (the real wide BW and the medium OR small setting) 2: Send the amp to me and I'll fix it as neatly as I can. Will also do the other mods (faster switch-on delay) 3: attempt the trace cutting/rewiring yourself. 4: live with it as it is for a while and we'll swap amps after the tour. 5: See Jeremy's generous after sales services in the next post. The rest of the amp is the same as the current version though so aside from the BW error it is the same. I should mention that these THICK PCB's Jeremy uses are a real PITA to de-solder. In most cases removing parts means the holes have to be drilled open again. The upside of thick PCB's is they don't bend much when changing jumpers, or in case of tube amps, changing tubes. Also these thick black goldwashed PCB's (certainly in small quantities) are even more expensive than a completed Bravo amp but at the same time the quality of it is very high ! I have a v1.0 pcb so I want to clarify option 1 above. If I remove C11, my high BW will have no roll-off and be identical to v1.1? Would med and low BW now be the same as low BW is now? If I ordered another Polaris from eBay today, would I be getting the more aggressive current filters or the newest version with the less aggressive filters?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Oct 1, 2014 14:08:12 GMT
Welcome to the forum.
Yes, when remove C11 and you set the BW setting to 'high' you will have NO roll-off and the same max bandwidth as V1.1 and my proposed BW values. When set to 'mid' or 'low' you will both get the 'mid' BW as per my proposal. The V1.1 as it currently ships has a similar FR in the 'mid' setting b.t.w. Just to be safe and am not talking out of my ... what value is mentioned on C12 ?
So... in high setting the FR will be as the green trace in the plots a few posts above this one. In mid & low setting the FR will be as per the blue trace. (mid and low do the same in this revision)
You can have the amp modified so it works as it should but should contact Jeremy. Those that have a rev 1.0 or rev 1.1 and want it modified to the settings as per my recommendation and live in Europe can contact me to have it brought up to the latest spec/revision.
There is no need to buy another one !
Those that PLAN to order a Polaris should contact Jeremy (at Garage 1217) and they can specify it the would like to have the current rev1.1 BW settings or the settings as per my suggestion.
I noticed on HF some confusion about the bandwidth settings (not many amps offer this functionality ?). In 'high setting' the bandwidth limiting is actually 'off'. The BW is basically 'restricted' by the output stage (350kHz @ -3dB) at normal listening levels.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Oct 1, 2014 16:08:32 GMT
I think there's a misunderstanding of what bandwidth is Frans and some think you can bypass them!! The idea of bandwidth off is quite funny really!!
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dpump
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Post by dpump on Oct 1, 2014 18:11:29 GMT
Welcome to the forum. Yes, when remove C11 and you set the BW setting to 'high' you will have NO roll-off and the same max bandwidth as V1.1 and my proposed BW values. When set to 'mid' or 'low' you will both get the 'mid' BW as per my proposal. The V1.1 as it currently ships has a similar FR in the 'mid' setting b.t.w. Just to be safe and am not talking out of my ... what value is mentioned on C12 ? So... in high setting the FR will be as the green trace in the plots a few posts above this one. In mid & high setting the FR will be as per the blue trace. (mid and high do the same in this revision) You can have the amp modified so it works as it should but should contact Jeremy. Those that have a rev 1.0 or rev 1.1 and want it modified to the settings as per my recommendation and live in Europe can contact me to have it brought up to the latest spec/revision. There is no need to buy another one ! Those that PLAN to order a Polaris should contact Jeremy (at Garage 1217) and they can specify it the would like to have the current rev1.1 BW settings or the settings as per my suggestion. I noticed on HF some confusion about the bandwidth settings (not many amps offer this functionality ?). In 'high setting' the bandwidth limiting is actually 'off'. The BW is basically 'restricted' by the output stage (350kHz @ -3dB) at normal listening levels. I think you meant to say "In mid and low setting the FR will be as per the blue trace. (mid and low do the same in this revision). As far as C12 (or C10, C11, or any of the blue caps) I don't see a value printed on them, so I can't tell you what the value of C12 is without removing it and measuring it.
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