solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jun 30, 2016 20:59:42 GMT
For the inline Kameleon I like to have the switches ON the PCB instead of wired.
This limits placememt and swicthing directions.
Before I order boards I like to hear practical opinions.
The switches will be toggle type (small lever)
I plan to have them placed symmetrical from L to R with function LED in the middle.
Swithces are 'power' and 'filter/bypass'
A: Symmetrical placement or 2 switches closer to each other and the LED eleswhere or... symmetrical.
B: switch actions from left to right OR up and down ?
When up down... active = up or active is down ?
No volume controls or plugs on the front.
The power switch not only switches on the circuit but also can switch on G1217 amps.
When the power is off the filter defaults to bypass.
I intend to order the PCB's on July 8th ... so opinions/wishes etc please before that day.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Jun 30, 2016 21:22:03 GMT
Personally I dont like toggle switches 9n the front but dont mind in the back. I'd suggest up/down instead of L/R....
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jun 30, 2016 21:35:02 GMT
I just tried to visualise this on my Topping amp which has toggles.
I think up/down might feel more natural. For some reason and I have no idea why, it feels right to me if I push the toggle up to switch filter on. Therefore maybe the same for power?
These mini toggles on the Topping are rather nice. They don't jut out too far and yet are really easy to switch with your thumb. (Rather than those long stainless style types?)
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Jun 30, 2016 21:40:34 GMT
As to symmetrical/LED in the middle I think aesthetically the latter would probably look best but being in the back out of sight I guess once one learns their position it is not that important.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 1, 2016 8:11:34 GMT
Will post some artist impressions soon.
For now the vertical switches may be a problem because of size and layout (they may be too high and get in the way of the filter module.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jul 1, 2016 8:25:29 GMT
In that case, going 'right' for on seems natural to me, Frans.
Would it be big and flat enough to sit the Ember or Polaris on top?
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jello
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Post by jello on Jul 1, 2016 8:59:58 GMT
Finding it a bit hard to visualise too so the mock ups will help.
But if I understand things right my preference would be:
- symmetrical placement power switch / LED / filter switch (running left to right)
- switch toggle action going up & down. Up being 'on' / 'filter active' and down being 'off' / 'bypass filter'
- switches to be visible as I like to see what I'm doing (or possibly that could be negated by having 1 or 2 indicator LEDs on the front / top if practical from a design p.o.v.?)
- would prefer that it didn't stack with the amps as that would impede filter swapping presumably?
What about the input / output cables Frans? Will they go in one side and out the other or will input/output RCA (?) jacks be mounted on the same panel?
ps. I really like the idea of only having to flick one power switch to turn on both the Kameleon and G1217 amp.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 1, 2016 9:21:50 GMT
Indeed, you need to be able to reach the filter modules from the top (when swapping now and then) input, output RCA on the rear. There may not be room for thick connectors... power in and out are next to the output connectors The enclosure for my design will be in the portable kameleon metal enclosure with sliding top. The G1217 version will probably have slide switches. It will be open at the top to change modules I reckon. As some of the G1217 amps have different dimensions making it stackable could be difficult. In any case you would quickly be able to lift the amp up to change the filter. Would be handy with dust getting into slide switches (which was my main concern with upwards pointing slide switches)     just a few possible ideas |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 1, 2016 13:52:39 GMT
the up-down switches that will fit (need to be subminiature) are difficult to source and relatively expensive.
Will try to find other sources for these switches.
The left-to-right switches are plentyfull, cheap and easy to mount so price and design wise the L-R switches may be best.
Still trying to use up-down switches though.
In the final design the switches will be one third from the bottom because of the PCB mounting position.
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jello
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Post by jello on Jul 1, 2016 16:52:13 GMT
Looking at the samples I quite like the 3rd one down. Although if you were using L/R switches the 1st one might work better.
With the LED is it possible and cost effective to use a two tone LED (seem to remember the desktop Kameleon having one?)? Green for power on and filter active and red for on but filter bypassed say.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 1, 2016 19:57:31 GMT
It is a bicolor LED.
When the LED is on the power is on.
A red LED means 'bypass' a green LED means filter 'on'.
Basically the same as desktop Kameleon.
Also thought of illuminated toggle switches (instead of an LED) but these are quite expensive.
The third from top down gives an opportunity of decals for instance.
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jello
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Post by jello on Jul 1, 2016 21:44:18 GMT
Nice. I found the bicolour LED very useful on the desktop Kameleon. I wasn't sure if decals would be an option but would be welcome. Helps keeps us absent minded types right  You mentioned that the inline Kameleon's power switch can also turn on G1217 amps. Does that involve using a single PSU (the G1217 amp's?) and then running an 'umbilical' power cord between the amp and Kameleon so they 'talk' or a completely different approach (more than likely as I don't have much appreciation of the technicalities)? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 2, 2016 5:42:51 GMT
You mentioned that the inline Kameleon's power switch can also turn on G1217 amps. Does that involve using a single PSU (the G1217 amp's?) and then running an 'umbilical' power cord between the amp and Kameleon so they 'talk' or a completely different approach (more than likely as I don't have much appreciation of the technicalities)? Yep, the G1217 power supply plugs in to the Kameleon which feeds a swicthed power supply to the amplifier via a DC cord. To prevent ground loop issues the Kameleon has a DC converter on board which isolates the grounds of the amplifier and signl ground. |
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jul 2, 2016 9:57:52 GMT
- would prefer that it didn't stack with the amps as that would impede filter swapping presumably... I guess it would mean taking the amp off in order to change the filter. My guess though is that most people stick with around two headphones and once they'd found their favourite 'eq'd' sound, they're more likely to stick with it. My favourite is the hd650 and that's the one that stays installed in my Kameleon amp. Also, I'd be concerned about continually pulling a chip in and out causing wear on the contacts. Ideally, for me, I'd have two eq chips in on a switch. One for open and one for a closed headphone!!! That would mean no switching chips then. I'd use another amp for other headphones which is what I do now. |
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Jul 4, 2016 19:32:10 GMT
The G1217 version will probably have slide switches. It will be open at the top to change modules I reckon. As some of the G1217 amps have different dimensions making it stackable could be difficult. In any case you would quickly be able to lift the amp up to change the filter. Sorry for the delay in answering this question Frans, I have been too busy tanning myself on the beaches of Zante It may be too late now, but if this Kameleon device is for the Garage G1217 amps then I personally would NOT put it in the Hammond enclosure that the portable version comes in. I love open style of the garage amps and I think the Kameleon filter should also be in the same style, either in open acrylic or open alloy using the same 3mm black PCB with gold plated component pads. Lets see all the lovely hard work and beautiful components that make it special. It should have an easily removable top panel with either small screws or thumb screws to easily change the filter. The arrangement of the switches also could be the same as you have shown in the pic below As most people are right handed it makes sense to use the same toggle switch as the G1217 amps with the right hand side switch being on/off, ON being down (I know for safety reasons OFF should be downwards in critical situations, but I feel down would feel better in this situation, and then the same for the left hand switch for the filter, on being down and the bi-colour LED in the middle. I also like the idea that Mark mentioned about having TWO filters that are switch-able (One for one headphone and one for a different headphone etc) reducing the need to keep opening the filter up. I hope this helps and has not thrown too many spanners in the works  |
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