jello
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Post by jello on Mar 28, 2017 13:34:03 GMT
I suppose it comes down to personal preference and how we use our computers as that doesn't sound like a great hardship to me.
I tend to boot my PC up before turning on my DACs (regardless of whether mains or USB powered) and always turn them off when I'm done. I'd never even given it any thought until now and now that I have a figure if I'm flicking switches on my amp and Kameleon one more won't hurt.
My PC never goes to sleep though (for gaming I turn off all the power saving features) so don't have to worry about resume in Windows.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Mar 28, 2017 15:18:37 GMT
I wanted to use the LE in the livingroom. The wife and kids do most of the (casual) listening there and all they have to do to get music playing is turn on the power (a single touch button switches on everything related so pre-amps, power amps, laptop charger, active filters etc.) and lift the cover of the laptop.. And voila after a few seconds 'resume function' of the laptop does all the work and the music continues where it left off.
When they want to switch of the music all that has to be done is close the laptop (goes to sleep mode) and switch off the power. So a convenience issue here. The old DAC(s) I use(d) there all work(ed) well this way. The misses wants 'ease of use' and I don't want to be bothered with questions like... 'why is there no sound ?, what did I do wrong, should that switch be on first or last?' Also I don't like depleted batteries which surely would happen this way.
On my PC I use the EMU0204 which has some quirks but I don't mind. Use it for measurements and occasional listening.
My own listening is usually X3 + headphone so no DAC required.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 28, 2017 16:21:56 GMT
The EMU series worked well with Windows XP but not so well with later versions of Windows, AFAIK even W7 drivers only reached beta state.
I actually like the on/off button on my micro, I don't use the DAC everytime I'm working with the PC so being able to turn it off is quite welcome. I'm not sure if the nano works the same way but if switched on after the USB is connected it runs on USB power and does not deploy the battery.
There are better options when it comes to USB DACs but at its price level the nano is, IMO, a rather nice choice.
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Post by jhelms on Mar 28, 2017 18:12:38 GMT
I have and use both the 0204 and 0404 (primarily 0404 in the office). Fantastic old devices for the cash. My 0404 is modified - love it. The only thing that has failed on it was the output protection circuit. One day, the rear outputs were super low in level. Did some troubleshooting and found the odd protection setup dead. Just removed the devices and all is well however if I turn the dac on with rear outputs connected and speakers on - you get a nasty thump. I just leave it on 24-7. If using windows (I used 7 and 10), make sure to install asio4all and then the last beta drivers. Also go into the bios and disable any on-board audio / go into device menu and further disable any other audio devices not e-mu related. Mine is rock solid. No resets or issues. Just works and works every single time - measures like a champ.
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Post by tupisac on Mar 28, 2017 21:50:15 GMT
Thanks for the advice. Nano looks promising, but the battery is definitely an issue. I fall asleep listening to music and then my computer hibernates after playlist ends. I was never able to run my EMU on asio4all, it was just silent. Might be the installation order, I always started with the drivers first. Interesting. Need to check on that. I might try fixing the hardware eventually, but I have to have a replacement first. What makes the diy option so tempting is the possibility to put stuff in custom enclosures and make my own neat stack. With analog VU meters and rotary switches - like in proper audio from good old days. It just plays better . Without that it's all gonna look like a mess. I picture the stack of Lab Equipment Kameleon + Star Trek Polaris + Big Soap EMU on top and it makes me cringe a bit.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 28, 2017 21:55:15 GMT
If you finally take the DIY path I'd recommend you to spend a little more and take the isolated XMOS board. It is really worth the extra expense.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using proboards
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Post by tupisac on Mar 29, 2017 21:31:42 GMT
[...] make sure to install asio4all and then the last beta drivers [...] Thank you! I did as suggested. Asio4all works. I'll check for stability for a few days, but that's a really good sign. What mods did you do to your EMU?
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Post by tupisac on Mar 29, 2017 21:43:12 GMT
If you finally take the DIY path I'd recommend you to spend a little more and take the isolated XMOS board. It is really worth the extra expense. I was wondering about that. So it's more about transport that the DAC itself, right? By the way, I was thinking about stack like this: I'm also thinking about squeezing the DAC, Kameleon and VUs in one box and leave Polaris as is. But that might be hard, as those DACs are pretty big when you count boards and power supplies.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Mar 30, 2017 4:52:30 GMT
Looks very nice !
One thing to keep in mind. Keep transformers (especially E-I transformers) well away from the Kameleon. The inductors on the filterboards could pick up hum from nearby transformers with some modules.
For the Polaris I would make the output R selector available on the front.
The meters look very nice but if you want them to actually move they would need to be connected to the line signal before the volume control/attenuator.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 30, 2017 11:10:39 GMT
Those look terrific!
Sent from my GT-I9505 using proboards
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Post by tupisac on Mar 30, 2017 12:48:26 GMT
The meters look very nice but if you want them to actually move they would need to be connected to the line signal before the volume control/attenuator. Of course I want them to actually move. And even do some practical stuff - wanted to put them after the volume pot, to match volume of two amps by eye (using switched external input) and to keep me from louder and louder listening. Now you got me thinking if it's possible. Here are the schematics for the driver I plan to use: www.modushop.pl/file/18/schemat-ukladu-vu-power-meter-hqOnce you account for all things needed for the build the cost difference with the iFi Nano LE (http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/nano-idsd-le/) won't be that big and the latter performs very well. The reviews are absolutely stellar and the price is really tempting. Also, the size and convenience... DIY DACs are big and the power supplies are a pain for many different reasons, one being the Kameleon next to them. I wonder - would the simple acquisition of externally powered USB hub solve the discussed battery issue?
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Mar 30, 2017 13:44:31 GMT
TBH I haven't read the nono's manual but the micro only runs on batteries if switched on before being connected to the USB port. If it is connected before switching on then it runs on USB power and charges the battery when idle (ie no audio signal comming in). The micro is very nice though quite a bit more expensive and some here have had problems with it. If portability is not required then the iDAC2 maybe a better option as desktop DAC but it sells at over 2x the price of the nano.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Mar 30, 2017 15:25:36 GMT
The meters look very nice but if you want them to actually move they would need to be connected to the line signal before the volume control/attenuator. Of course I want them to actually move. And even do some practical stuff - wanted to put them after the volume pot, to match volume of two amps by eye (using switched external input) and to keep me from louder and louder listening. Now you got me thinking if it's possible. Here are the schematics for the driver I plan to use: www.modushop.pl/file/18/schemat-ukladu-vu-power-meter-hqThe meters behind the volume control won't work well. The circuit above appears to create a different dB scale and will make the meters move on small signals as well as larger signals. BUT it would not be functional IF you want the dB scale of the meter to have any meaning. The current dB scale is only usable when the signal is rectified. The compressor (U4) will create a different dB scale.. the meters will move regardless of signal strength but only move in small ranges and not related to the dB scale.
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Post by tupisac on Mar 31, 2017 12:20:38 GMT
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Mar 31, 2017 13:37:54 GMT
Yes, but the dB scale on the meter will be useless unless you only want a meter needle to move on the music. You could always leave out the compressor and have a normal dB scale but may not see the meter needle move.
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