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Post by chinook9 on Sept 13, 2016 16:58:02 GMT
I have been considering upgrading from a Sunrise II to an Ember 2.1, however, I am not sure the Ember will sound any better to me. I really like the sound of the Sunrise II but I never liked supplying power from the wall wart.
Jeremy's linear power supply is not ready yet but I have a DIYINHK "0.8uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-9/12/15V 1.5A*x2" that I think I should be able to use to provide enough clean 24V power to the Sunrise II.
Assuming that I hook it up the PS correctly,(this is a bipolar PS) will this work if I run it into the PS input on the Sunrise II?
I'm not much of an electronics theory guy but if this will work I think it might improve the sound of the Sunrise II.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Sept 13, 2016 17:04:11 GMT
It should when you connect The + 12V (or 15V) to the middle pin and the -12V (or 15V) to the sleeve of the DC input.
This way you have 24V (or 27V when using +15V and -12V) or even 30V when using +/- 15V.
Jeremy is working on the linear again.
The former enclosure turned out to be a nightmare.
Within a few days he will check if the new enclosure is O.K.
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 13, 2016 17:48:36 GMT
Hello Frans!
I thought this might work. Will the Sunrise work just as well, or better, with the 30V input?
I'm still interested in Jeremy's PS but I'll try this when I get a chance.
I'm really enjoying the Superlux HD662-EVO which I modified including the felt on the interior. The HD662 has also gotten me to listening even more to the AKG K812 which sounds to me like a refined HD662. These are both really fun headphones. The HD800 is technically better but, to me, is not nearly as enjoyable listening.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Sept 13, 2016 19:05:44 GMT
The HD800 really needs a Kameleon.
Jeremy plans to start working on it in the coming 2 weeks.
The Sunrise should work well on 30V but will become somewhat warmer/hotter on the heatsinks.
In that case the bias needs to be adjusted about 3V above the normal bias voltage.
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Post by jhelms on Sept 13, 2016 20:31:04 GMT
Did your Sunrise come with one of the very early, original actual wall warts or the meanwell power brick (been ages so I cannot recall the cutoff)
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 13, 2016 20:41:04 GMT
Thanks for the info Frans. At some point I will build a Kameleon for the hd800. I may just stay with 24v for the Sunrise. That makes rolling tubes easier and I expect the sound won't suffer. Did your Sunrise come with one of the very early, original actual wall warts or the meanwell power brick (been ages so I cannot recall the cutoff) Hi Jeremy! I am using a wal wart. Its an infinity 24 volts 1.67 amps. Does this sound right to you? I have so many wal warts, but I'm pretty sure this is the one came with the Sunrise II. |
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 15, 2016 15:30:46 GMT
It should when you connect The + 12V (or 15V) to the middle pin and the -12V (or 15V) to the sleeve of the DC input. This way you have 24V (or 27V when using +15V and -12V) or even 30V when using +/- 15V. Frans, On the bipolar +-12V PS, am I correct in thinking the connections would be the + and - on the PS with nothing connected to the center ground. I'm thinking this is correct but I don't want to find out the hard way that its not. There is a trace on the PS that I can cut and make the board 2 separate 12V PS but I'd rather not have to cut the trace unless its essential. If I did this I know how to connect it. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Sept 15, 2016 18:17:16 GMT
Indeed only use the + (connected to the centerpin of the amp) and the - (connected to the sleeve)
The ground pin must be left floating (open/not used) in this case.
Don't cut traces on the board. The grounds must stay connected to each other, just not to anything else.
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 15, 2016 19:31:55 GMT
Thank you Frans. I'll probably try it in the next few days. Not expecting much, if any, noticeable change but I'll try it.
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Post by jhelms on Sept 15, 2016 20:09:10 GMT
Thanks for the info Frans. At some point I will build a Kameleon for the hd800. I may just stay with 24v for the Sunrise. That makes rolling tubes easier and I expect the sound won't suffer. Did your Sunrise come with one of the very early, original actual wall warts or the meanwell power brick (been ages so I cannot recall the cutoff) Hi Jeremy! I am using a wal wart. Its an infinity 24 volts 1.67 amps. Does this sound right to you? I have so many wal warts, but I'm pretty sure this is the one came with the Sunrise II. Ok that is what I was wondering, around that time we switched to a much superior SMPS which is in a power brick format. If the supply you are installing does not go as planned, We can get you one of the meanwell designs. |
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 15, 2016 22:01:52 GMT
Thanks for the info Frans. At some point I will build a Kameleon for the hd800. I may just stay with 24v for the Sunrise. That makes rolling tubes easier and I expect the sound won't suffer. Hi Jeremy! I am using a wal wart. Its an infinity 24 volts 1.67 amps. Does this sound right to you? I have so many wal warts, but I'm pretty sure this is the one came with the Sunrise II. Ok that is what I was wondering, around that time we switched to a much superior SMPS which is in a power brick format. If the supply you are installing does not go as planned, We can get you one of the meanwell designs. Hi Jeremy! What I'm doing is really just an experiment. If the end results sounds appreciably better, I'll make a permanent change, but I doubt that it will. In the latter case I would like a Meanwell designs or wait for one of your linear supplies. How much are the Meanwell Designs, including shipping? |
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Post by jhelms on Sept 16, 2016 21:28:39 GMT
Shoot me a PM and I will get one out to ya  The meanwell with shielded IEC cable is a great setup, not much coin either. |
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 17, 2016 4:36:52 GMT
Thank you Jeremy. I sent you a PM.
My little experiment of powering the Sunrise with the DIYINHK PS was not successful. The Sunrise powered up and I adjusted the tube bias but the protection relay did not click in. I checked the voltage and polarity on the connector and everything checked out OK. Possibly the PS does provide enough power but it is rated to provide burst up to 1.5A and handle 1A at lower temperatures. I have two of them I could hook up in parallel but I'm not sure I want to do that until after I've done some more troubleshooting.
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Post by chinook9 on Sept 25, 2016 23:51:01 GMT
I got the power brick from Jeremy and that's what I'm going with. Seems to sound a little smoother but can't say so for sure because I don't trust my hearing or my audio memory. I do know that I really enjoy the Sunrise II. Next is to try and determine if I would enjoy the Ember even more.
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Post by thunderhead on Oct 24, 2016 14:20:54 GMT
Hello Brian,
Greetings from Albuquerque, it's been a while.
I have a PS2 sitting next to an Ember. Both are excellent. The PS2 is good for lower impedance phones and the Ember is good for higher impedance phones. It can make my DT880 (600 ohm) really sing and Grados make thunder, so it is good for just about any dynamic phones.
Tube rolling is automatic on the Ember. I run the Frankenember on (7193) on the Ember and 6SN7 on the PS2. You would not be disappointed with the two together. I like running the same tube in both and comparing the sound.
Cheers!
Ron
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The meanwell with shielded IEC cable is a great setup, not much coin either. 