solderdude
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measureutternutter
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Post by solderdude on Aug 14, 2013 14:15:23 GMT
Itsalive is correct.
Ember is specified for 500mA but can supply about 600mA max, it is because of the higher power supply voltage used in the Horizon and Ember. Most tubes are between 300mA and 350mA
There is also a 6N6PI which has a 900mA heater. This one was intended for short usage only and was heated up really quick it was only specified for 500hrs of usage.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 18, 2013 7:51:36 GMT
Remember, when plugging the headphones in, THE SPEAKERS WILL NOT BE MUTED unless a mod is done to the amp. It is primarily a headphone amp and line out to a power amp means that you would need to switch the power amp of or speakers so that the sound doesn't go into the room.
I send mine to some active monitors so I just switch the monitors off when listening to headphones. Having said that, my monitors really seem to become very dynamic with the Ember in line. Attacks on notes are absolutely brilliant and you do need to watch the volume.
I was listening to a section of the Rite of Spring a couple of weeks ago. There is one point that is very quiet and suddenly the whole orchestra goes off. I'm not kidding, I could barely hear the soft section but the loud section nearly blew me out of my seat. It's a very dynamic amp.
However, please Techboy, don't break the bank for an amp. This is just a hobby.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2013 18:03:03 GMT
Claus will be posting the Ember tomorrow unless you would prefer a panda? Sell the Panda and get an Aune S2. A real improvement. It's more costly but a version of the Panda I really liked. ...... or get an Ember I guess!! Mine's permanently on and being used!! i would have thought the aune would be very similar to my current panda, so not really where i want to go. Mike did quite a lot of mods to this one i have and i have to say , it blew away my modded v2 and v1 (with modded x10d) IMO. the only thing i am lacking is the warm tube sound. i could of course add a tube buffer to my panda! but it makes more sense to buy the Ember when you consider the cost of a good used buffer. as for selling the panda?, i would not have a clue what to ask for it. i was very happy to pay what i paid for it , as at the time i studied the RG thread and with it being built by Mike i knew it would be a well built amp. trying to relay that across to a potential buyer on ebay would be difficult. no, for me , my next amp will be an Ember. i just hope the prices stay as they are for 2/3 months. (need to hack away at my credit card bill first) my ears are "tuned" back into the panda now (it dont take long, i think ears are more fickle than football fans!) BUT, i made my mind up when i had the Ember on trial, and i WILL have one, just as soon as i can.
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Post by razrr1275 on Aug 19, 2013 20:51:34 GMT
Yes Razr1275. I've read your writings on HF. You're one of the guys I trust with regards to opinions. I think you put out some good advice on the Ember too. Too many kids on there nowadays along with people with high opinions of themselves so I read with caution. Aakshey, is it worth that money with the tax? Thanks - I try to be as accurate as possible to the best of my knowledge Also just an unrelated general note on the Ember. I'm finding that at least for my AKG cans (haven't been ballsy enough to try the grados as I'd like my ears to stay in decent shape for now), the low output resistance setting can also provide a great sound but just in a different fashion - a bit more clear, more articulate and less smooth. I've also noticed that the changes to each end of the spectrum via amp settings can occur in degrees. For example, I'd say stage one of the transition to smoothness is bypassing input caps as that has the least effect. Then stage two to get a smoother presentation is switching to high gain, and finally, stage three which makes for a darker sort of smoothness is switching to the high output impedance setting. All of this aside from the tube of course. Anyone try the HD650s on these? Think I'm going to get a set soon.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 19, 2013 21:03:34 GMT
I agree Razr. I much prefer k601 at 100 ohms, high power.
I also have the HD650 and prefer once again high powers but into low output impedance. You need to be careful with volume, although low power doesn't do that much harm sonically imo.
The low output impedance just helps to calm the bloat.
Not so sure about HD600, which I also have. I can accept high or low output impedance since it is a touch lighter. So I used the mid setting.
Then the next option is to look at the tube for a bit more 'tuning'.
I'm not certain I can hear any difference with capacitors bypassed. I'll have to play around with that a bit more.
Just my opinion - I'm not sure the 650 is still worth its asking price. I prefer the 600 since it seems less bloated. I think the Beyer DR990 is a better buy; especially with eq. Not sure whether Frans makes a filter for the Beyer extremes, but properly we'd they are a great headphone and you save a lot of money.
I use the 990 a lot. A fun headphone.
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Post by techboy on Aug 20, 2013 9:22:09 GMT
In India only Fiio headphone amps are available. Pretty much nothing else. We need to buy from overseas. And the market is really tiny. Like, if you want to sell a $200 amp for $80 used, then it can take months or it may never happen at all.
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 20, 2013 16:36:34 GMT
Ya but I need a headphone amp as a preamp and for that this is the right place Hi Techboy, you are correct this is the right place. I was the first person along with Ian to hear the Ember and I am also not a great headphone lover - also preferring to listen through speakers. I can assure you 100% that the Ember makes a stunning pre-amp with the tube of your choice. I can also assure you that the stock tube that comes with it is very very good and I would be very happy to live with it if I was on a budget, you can always change it when time and funds permit. I too do not have much funds and I do not own an Ember, but you can rest assured that it IS a superb HA/Pre-amp worth every penny as it offers exceptional value for money bettering the sound quality of some amps costing 10x as much. The only problem you are likely to encounter is if you need more than one input, but that can also be overcome with a switching unit. You can read my review here diyah.boards.net/thread/143/project-ember?page=13
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Post by techboy on Aug 20, 2013 17:18:24 GMT
How to by pass input capacitors? Does it require soldering or is it just a button?
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dicky
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Post by dicky on Aug 20, 2013 18:55:19 GMT
How to by pass input capacitors? Does it require soldering or is it just a button? There's a jumper on the board. If you go to Jeremy's website, you can download the manual.
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 20, 2013 19:53:02 GMT
How to by pass input capacitors? Does it require soldering or is it just a button? There's a jumper on the board. If you go to Jeremy's website, you can download the manual. It really could not be any simpler, you just move a jumper across the board, a bit like a jumper on a computer board - anybody can do it. Look at the manual: www.garage1217.com/MANUALS/EMBER%20MANUAL%207-10-2013.pdf
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Rabbit
Administrator
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 21, 2013 7:44:29 GMT
Basically, on the front of the amp Aakshey, there are two (what looks like) plastic tags. They are links, so all you need to do is move them from the outer two pins to the inner. There are 3 pins and two are covered by the link.
Once they are switched, the capacitors are being bypassed which for some, improves the sound. I'm not certain I could hear it myself but the theory is that it is better having another component out of the way.
The only thing is that the volume pot will become scratchy when you turn it since there is no longer any smoothing, but for some, the improvements are worth the scratchy pot.
So if you do it and hear the volume control going up and down, this is normal when the input capacitors have been bypassed.
It's worth a try.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 21, 2013 8:56:06 GMT
Exactly,
It isn't the quality of the capacitor and it's 'presumed sound' though as that association may easily be made. There is a technical reason which has to do with the current (amount of electrons) in the tube, the shape of the grid (which are thin wires) and anode voltage. So for tubes with a high cathode emission/current the effect will be different compared tubes with lower emission/current. This is because of the low voltage design and with large output voltages the anode voltage becomes so low it does not 'attract' electrons that well anymore and more electrons will escape via the grid. This, combined with the high resistance when capacitor coupled will give different cathode currents than when the capacitor is bypassed (shorted). For this reason the 'linearity', not in the sense of frequency range but as in amplitude, alters and does so asymmetrical. In Sunrise and Horizon one has to compensate by re-adjusting the bias voltage but Ember does this automatically but it DOES alter it's operational point.
Another bonus of Ember (and Horizon) is the relatively high anode voltage compared to Sunrise/Starlight. So there is more to it than just the absence of a (very good quality) coupling cap. After all the output cap is an electrolytic and thus the amp will alwasy be capacitor coupled anyway.
So... depends on the used tube and output voltage swing more so than a cap being in the path or not.
As advised, simply set the jumpers in either position and listen. Your ears (brain actually) may not be similar to those of others and this makes subjective found differences suspect.
Also if your speakers cannot do the 'lush' and 'clean' thing no amount of tubes or circuits will be able to bring that into the sound. A crappy headphone won't become uncrappy by inserting a tube in the chain. A good system, however, may reveal another sonic 'presentation' that is often experienced as more pleasant. The same goes for recording quality and source, they must be of good quality to begin with to be able to bring the 'subtle' differences.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 21, 2013 9:27:34 GMT
What Frans has said is especially relevant Aakshey. The system will reveal as much as your weakest part in the system will allow. This is why reviews and general descriptions can be tricky to do. What I get may not be the same as others depending on source and headphone with the same amp. Let alone the different configurations that are possible such as bypassing the capacitors.
I often consider the amp and headphone as a 'working unit' and don't really think of the amp as the one thing that makes a system.
The Ember will allow you to some extent to match the output and configuration to suit your headphone more than most amps. So the chances of success with your Pioneer headphone are much greater.
The real beauty of the Ember as the link between source and headphone.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2013 20:21:01 GMT
any news on the upgrade psu for the Ember?
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Post by itsalive on Aug 22, 2013 16:06:22 GMT
6GU7 and 6N2P-ev work very well with
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