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Post by techboy on Aug 10, 2013 14:34:02 GMT
I currently have a bravo ocean. I just want a much bigger and cleaner hd faster and crisper and sweeter and lusher version of bravo ocean. I love my current amp. But want something better at the same game. Same tonality but better in the same stuff is what I need.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 10, 2013 14:49:08 GMT
The Ocean is the exact same version as the 'old' Bravo with the same flaws and the same sound, just a different enclosure.
The good news is that the Ocean and other Garage1217 amps have a 'similar' tube sound. The garage 1217 amps however do not have the problems that plague the Ocean like crosstalk above certain levels, distortion due to non-linear behaviour of the used current sources, cheap part that have a tendency to fail sooner or later, better PS, better quality parts e.t.c.
So the amps are same tonality but much more headroom, lower distortion, better longevity but for this reason they are much more expensive simply because of costs of better quality parts and PCB e.t.c. Ember is on another technical level and best suited for those that like to swap out tubes very often.
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Post by itsalive on Aug 10, 2013 17:25:15 GMT
And in terms of sound quality? Sound quality of an amplifier is a very subjective statement, i personnaly like the sound of my Ember, i find it better than my Audio-gd C2, all the Ember and the others garage1217 amp i owned (Sunrise and Starlight) were able to reproduce the slightest details of the DAC i tried (even > 600$ DAC like my DAC-19 DSP which is a very resolving unit), i can't say more !
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2013 21:41:29 GMT
It's the amp I use the most!! That's basically because I prefer it's sound...... totally subjective. However, Frans can supply data, showing why it sounds better. He won't say it sounds better because he designed it, but to my ears, it's the best Jeremy has sold!!2 and i have been listening to songs that i am really not that keen on, just because everything sounds so good.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2013 22:14:46 GMT
techboy at the price of the Ember, if i was you i would take a chance on it. Frans and Jeremy obviously "know their onions", they are both on here all the time so support would be 2nd to none. if it dont suit your taste, sell it on. have you searched the net to see if anyone anywhere has any negative comments on the Ember? i am no good at writing reviews as i dont have the knowledge or vocab, but i will say this amp put a smile on my face even before i plugged it in. no pics on here(internet) do it justice. i have had an ss amp in the past that cost nearly double the price of the Ember (will not mention the name as that is not something i want to get into)
at the moment i am using a diy ss amp, the panda, (not built by me thankfully), this blew away everything i had before which includes a modded xcan v1 and v2 as well as the "not to be mentioned" ss amp. the Ember has the warm tube sound, as in the modded v2 but with the power of the panda ss amp. i do believe the guys are working on a psu upgrade for the Ember too. so on top of all the tailoring options (as Ian stated), there is a future upgrade to be had too. i doubt you would regret buying the Ember ;-)
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 11, 2013 8:00:10 GMT
Also the fact that it's been designed and sold by enthusiasts who know what they're doing, they are providing what they know others want out of their amp. Tbh, if you added up the costs to get the parts and get it assembled, you'd see exactly what good value it is. Jeremy isn't making a fortune out of this and I'm well aware of that. He should be selling it for more. So when I see questions about vfm, it kind of makes me feel very protective. Especially when you see the time and effort that Frans has put into it.
The thing is that enthusiasts know what other enthusiasts want rather than produce a big profit making amp like a business. Being open frame keeps the cost down and Jeremy really couldn't supply it at the same price with a posh case.
It's an enthusiasts amp with the best support you could ask for. The designer sits in this forum and answers everyone with the patience of a saint!! The seller sits in this forum, desperately trying to be as neutral as he can about an amp he uses and loves himself.
The power supply again, makes real sense since the amp is capable of producing huge dynamics and so needs a robust supply. If you think about it, just a supply could end up costing near £200 if you got something like a Little Pinkie for instance. It would double the price but a power supply in that league is what the amp deserves, but Frans and Jeremy are looking for a cost saving supply that offers real value.
So all in all, it is terrific value for money. The sound is beyond its price point. Yes, it would be nice to have a posh box and big power supply, as long as you accept that costs would have to reflect that.
So Techboy, I think you'd be hard pushed to find something better value at this level of performance. As long as you like a tube sound with enormous dynamics!!
I prefer the Ember to the V8. The v8 used to sell at £450.
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Post by razrr1275 on Aug 11, 2013 21:34:38 GMT
Hey Frans,
At Jeremy's suggestion to get a smoother, more resolving sound I bypassed the input caps, switched to high gain and used the middle resistance setting and ended up getting a sound that's not fatiguing at all on my Grados which is pretty impressive. I was wondering what the technical reasons for the change in sound with switching input cap and gain settings were?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 11, 2013 22:35:59 GMT
It mostly is the output R that works wonders for Grado's (and AKG's Xx01's) As you loose a little amplitude/volume (because of voltage division) this is compensated by increasing the gain.
The bypassing of the input cap alters the grid voltage (that is there because of grid leakage due to the relative low anode voltage). With some tubes (those with lower currents) it may be best to use a capacitor coupled input.
Also have a try on high output R, may get a bit too lush though.
It's the reason why all those jumpers are there so you can 'adjust' to your taste and/or headphone.
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Post by techboy on Aug 12, 2013 10:05:35 GMT
I will primarily use as a pre amp for active bookshelves.
Besides that, I want the best possible synergy with Q701, K712 Pro, HD 650/600/598, RS 180/220, ATH AD900X, Mad Dogs, Fostex, HE400 and other low impedance orthos. Also Beyer 32 ohm to 600 ohm 880/990.
Primary focus: Speaker preamp Q701 K712 HD 650 Beyer 990 600ohms RS 220
I don't have the above headphones but I want the best possible synergy with all because I may buy any of the above with the game starting with akg 7xx.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 12, 2013 17:55:44 GMT
Line out issues... I got a question about the functionality of the line-out and headphone socket on the Ember. The Ember is primarily intended as a headphone amp but CAN also be used as a tube-buffer (with volume control) so sort-of like a pre-amp but without extra inputs. The line-out is more of a 'bonus feature' than a primary one. Once the amp is activated the output signal splits into a separate section for line out (with voltage division resistors) and to the headphone socket and it's respective output Resistance selector. This means the RCA line out signal will always be present and is not 'affected' by anything that may be connected to the headphone socket and does not 'mute' when a headphone is connected. Some owners, however, would like to use it as a pre-amp and like to 'mute' the line-out the moment a headphone is plugged into the amp. This avoids having to adjust the amplifier chain or switching it off when using a headphone. Similar to what happens when a headphone is plugged into a mobile phone, TV or some stereo receivers. Fortunately the amplifier is fitted with a headphone socket that contains a switch that could do this. The option is not used because not every one would like the line-out to be switched off when a headphone is inserted. Because the amplifier is a DIY device and the components are there but only the wiring for it is missing the Ember line-out can be changed so it has the ability to mute the line-out when a headphone is inserted in the headphone socket. This involves cutting 5 traces on the BOTTOM layer and soldering 1 short wire and 2 longer wires. How to do this is shown in the picture below The traces are shown from the TOP side but are located on the BOTTOM side. So when looking for these traces remember they will be 'mirrored'. Cut the 5 traces where they are marked. make sure the copper trace is open circuit by removing a small part of it. Solder wires as indicated by the orange 'wires'. After this modification the line-out signal will be muted whenever a headphone is inserted in the headphone socket.
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Post by itsalive on Aug 12, 2013 18:22:23 GMT
thank you very much solderdude
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Post by techboy on Aug 13, 2013 12:52:54 GMT
Is the Ember an upgrade from Sunrise II in terms of sound quality? Or is it worse because it isn't pure class A? Has anybody heard both?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 13, 2013 15:21:26 GMT
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Post by tommo21 on Aug 14, 2013 11:42:50 GMT
Would a 6n6p tube have too much heater current for the Ember? I believe it is around 750 on these tubes?
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Post by itsalive on Aug 14, 2013 12:03:32 GMT
Would a 6n6p tube have too much heater current for the Ember? I believe it is around 750 on these tubes? No it will not work, because the max current heater on the Ember is around 600 ma (Most 6N1P, 6GU7 and 12BU7, 12BH7a will work on it), but 6N6p and 6N30P will only work on the Starlight and Sunrise because their max current heater is 1A.
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