|
|
Post by tdubl07 on Feb 24, 2014 23:13:42 GMT
Solderdude, I was thinking it would be cool to replace the switch on my project ember with a push button type. Can you tell me which switch is the stock one, so I can look up specs and perhaps replace mine with a push button style.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by jhelms on Feb 25, 2014 0:56:14 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by jhelms on Feb 25, 2014 1:18:07 GMT
Good news friends! Frans and I finished the 1A+ DC-DC supercharger module for Ember (can be retrofitted to Horizon) We just have some last minute testing to be completed. Official shipments should start March 5th - 7th ish as I have to wait for production PCB's in our sexy piano black. This is virtually a drop in item. De-solder the stock 3-pin dc-dc, clear the holes and solder in the new SC module. More to follow. Sneak peak of the module during some testing - running a 6n30p   |
|
h2on0
valued member
Posts: 5 
|
Post by h2on0 on Feb 25, 2014 2:17:18 GMT
Hi, new Ember owner here. I love it by the way. I am pairing it with the schiit modi and the he-400's. This is my first post and I would like to know why I would want to use a 6n30p do they sound better? Are there other tubes that would work better if the amp has a higher heater current? Is there a different sound to them? I know many questions.
thanks
joe
|
|
|
|
Post by jhelms on Feb 25, 2014 2:32:17 GMT
Hello,
The 6n30p is not any better or worse than the next tube as it is all subjective to what the owner likes (we all have our favorites). I just used it as an example as they are very demanding power wise. The SC module simply allows more tubes to be rolled. There are a LOT of lower power requirement tubes that sound awesome so if you are happy with the tube or tubes you have, there is zero reason to add this module. If you would like to expand the collection or specifically like some higher draw tubes, then the module is for you!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2014 8:19:13 GMT
Awesome!
This is exciting! Congratulations to Frans and Jeremy.
I have no doubt the venerable 6H30P-DR will become a favorite. I'll be interested to hear comparisons between that and the 6H30Pi or 6N6Pi.
|
|
|
|
Post by tdubl07 on Feb 25, 2014 15:37:15 GMT
Thank you kind sir  |
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Feb 25, 2014 15:42:57 GMT
I would like to add that when using another switch you have to pick one that can handle a large inrush current.
Some switches may weld their contacts as the inrush 'power' is quite high.
|
|
|
|
Post by jhelms on Feb 25, 2014 15:57:12 GMT
Awesome! This is exciting! Congratulations to Frans and Jeremy. I have no doubt the venerable 6H30P-DR will become a favorite. I'll be interested to hear comparisons between that and the 6H30Pi or 6N6Pi. DR / vintage versions are good tubes but expensive (I am more into bang for the buck). I find just as much joy with a reproduction 6n30p such as the sovtek or EH which come in around $35. And even though they do not look as nice build wise, the 6n6p is great and super affordable! But if one does want to shell out the funds for a DR, I do not think they will be disappointed in the tube by any means, they are very nice all around. |
|
|
|
Post by tdubl07 on Feb 25, 2014 17:24:49 GMT
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Feb 25, 2014 19:36:49 GMT
It is hard to say if it will but certainly looks like it.
You have to remember though that these push buttons in general need some force to switch.
With a toggle switch the needed pressure is less.
This means when switching the amp on/off you may have to push on the amp in which case you may have to hold/press it down in order not to slide it to the front.
A while back we were thinking about a button on the front that switches a MOSFET that powers the amp but so far it hasn't made it into the design.
personally I like 'subtle' switches in the front of an amp.
|
|
|
|
Post by tdubl07 on Feb 25, 2014 19:58:17 GMT
I totally agree about the front mount switch. If it was more asthetically pleasing I'm sure you guys would move it. I may order the pushbutton and give it a try. My minimax has one for it's power switch which I like very much, but it's panel mounted so doesn't really apply to the ember. Anyway I might stay stock or knowing my constant need to tinker, I may order it just to see how I like it.  Thanks solderdude |
|
|
|
Post by jhelms on Feb 25, 2014 21:06:39 GMT
Good find! Yes, the silver contacts are more than OK. Let us know how it turns out! |
|
dicky
quite active
Posts: 230
|
Post by dicky on Feb 26, 2014 8:22:07 GMT
Hi Frans/Jeremy,
there have been a couple of mentions on here about the 'solid state Ember'. How does/will it compare to the CHAmp in terms of configurability?
Dicky
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Feb 26, 2014 10:24:41 GMT
Well for one thing you cannot change the sound by altering tubes and as the used FET is a small SMD and choices are limited in FETs only the output resistance and gain setting remain.
The 'added' harmonics (this is what the tubes do) have the same level and characteristics as from 'a' tube.
There are slight differences among tubes.
Some tubes have an audible roll-off while others have bandwidths of well over 100kHz which is another reason why a tube alters the sound.
This depends on the gain of the tube and the anode current.
Power wise the Ember and SS will be similar as well as topology wise (sort-off) in that a non-feedback gain stage is used in the Ember (the tube) and because FET's have such a high gain the FET voltage amplifier works on local feedback.
This is NOT done by comparing output to input signals but reducing gain by strategically placed source resistors.
The output stage and output cap are the same with the exception that in the Ember the output stage is 1x gain (basically a follower) and in case of the SS has a little bit of gain.
So the SS can set gain in 2 steps (but you can choose the step size) and output resistance can be set in 3 steps (just like Ember) but the bandwidth cannot be configured as can be done with CHAmp (BW jumpers) and Ember (by using tubes).
Output power of the SS is MUCH higher than that of CHAmp for low impedance headphones.
For headphones above 120 Ohm the output power doesn't differ that much but SS is marginally (say 2dB) higher due to the higher supply voltage (48V vs 32V)
|
|
Thanks solderdude