Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 30, 2016 19:46:32 GMT
Better for finer control. Mine has a big gold knob. Literally .... gold!!! (Plated  ) An attenuator will lower the noise floor a lot. That's another reason why I'd like one. I try to set amps so that the gain is around 12 o clock if possible. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2016 22:43:31 GMT
Knob means different things in different languages. |
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 30, 2016 22:55:43 GMT
Nay a peekie then?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2016 23:01:53 GMT
Nope, that's a new one on me.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 30, 2016 23:04:28 GMT
I'll stay with knob then...... |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2016 23:09:16 GMT
Another three posts and we'll appear on search engines as a porn thread, lol.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 30, 2016 23:23:52 GMT
Woah ..... visitor numbers might rocket overnight!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2016 23:24:54 GMT
Wait for my strip-cam episode. That'll do it.
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Post by darkarn on Dec 31, 2016 15:33:59 GMT
Better for finer control. Mine has a big gold knob. Literally .... gold!!! (Plated ) An attenuator will lower the noise floor a lot. That's another reason why I'd like one. I try to set amps so that the gain is around 12 o clock if possible. Sounds like something I will get (or even make?) soon! |
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 31, 2016 15:38:34 GMT
Yes, it's nice to get the gain right in order to get a ngood volume but also not emphasise any noise. On my Polaris, I use high input so that the signal is as loud as it can be and then attenuate on the output, but I still need more for the MSR7 since I still get a sudden jump from quite soft to suddenly louder and need more gradation. Then add a larger knob and you get even more fine control which is perfect for me!!
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Post by Mr Trev on Dec 31, 2016 16:33:18 GMT
The attenuator is great. I built one based off Solderdude's blog and can even use IEMs now with my P1 - still have a pretty limited vol. range tho. Only had access to cheap parts - actually melted the female connector, seriously, the plastic holding the contacts in place turned to pudding with the slightest bit of heat - so I would imagine that one of the G1217 offerings might work even better
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Dec 31, 2016 17:10:43 GMT
TBH, I use the Polaris at low gain anyway even for the hd650 or the dt990. Perfectly loud enough for me then at 12 o clock or 11 actually, which is where I'd like to get the msr7 to be if I get one. If an amp works and goes loud enough at low gain, that's where I put it. Smacks potential noise down and you get (theoretically) a better 'black' silence.
The Polaris and Ember have a lot of power available so for low impedance headphones, I tend to use the Ifi which goes right down to quite a low gain and also sounds extremely good.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2016 18:57:32 GMT
Low gain for me on the Project Ember MkII driving my Sennheiser HD 650's. More than enough.
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Post by darkarn on Jan 1, 2017 7:44:09 GMT
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solderdude
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measureutternutter
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Post by solderdude on Jan 1, 2017 9:36:32 GMT
Yes, the ifi does the same but can also be used with balanced amps (as long as it is 3.5mm TRRS).
Also you will need to add a 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, and maybe a 3.5mm to 6.3mm to revert back to 6.3mm
The G1217 version goes from 6.3 (all G1217 amps have 6.3 TRS) to 3.5mm TRS because most of the sensitive headphones have a 3.5mm TRS.
Assuming the G1217 version can handle more power and may be a bit more sturdy in build.
A way to make a DIY version and not put parts inside the plug is to put the resistors in a small piece of electric piping and put shrinkwrap around it.
You have to use 4 wires... 2 of them to ground on the input side.
Maybe I will make a drawing on how to make one this way.
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