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Post by darkarn on Jan 1, 2017 18:08:34 GMT
Thanks! I just realised I got some heatshrink from another project; I think that can help too in this project (e.g. solder one side of resistor to correct lead of plug, place heatshrink, solder other side, use hair dryer to finish up)
Also, am I right to say that I will need an attenuator for my sensitive headphones no matter which G1217 amp I am using?
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Post by tracestar on Jan 1, 2017 18:14:54 GMT
I never needed an attenuator when using the Polaris. Only got the garage 1217 attenuator so that I can use the Ember with sensitive headphones without hearing a hiss.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 2, 2017 8:33:52 GMT
This is how you can make such an adapter:  The upper part is for when the parts are mounted inside the 6.3mm plug. The lower part is how the parts should be connected outside of the plug (for instance when using a 3.5mm plug) |
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Post by darkarn on Jan 2, 2017 11:17:01 GMT
Thanks! I will proceed to make this attenuator first seeing how it will be needed somehow; I can also test if it will work with my current tube amp
I think I will use 6.3mm plug and jack for this though seeing that I will need some room to work with
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Post by darkarn on Jan 2, 2017 11:35:42 GMT
By the way, is there any "recommended" resistors that I should use or any will do as long I get the ones with the correct values?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 2, 2017 13:30:24 GMT
metalfilm will be fine.
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Post by darkarn on Jan 2, 2017 23:38:24 GMT
Thanks, I think I will go with the top design
Let's see if I am up for the challenge!
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 3, 2017 8:58:45 GMT
Make sure to buy small sized resistors (not SMD !) and a BIG 6.3mm plug.
Neutrik NP3C/B
or
Neutrik NP3XL
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Post by darkarn on Jan 3, 2017 9:12:58 GMT
Thanks, I will keep an look out for these Meanwhile, from the last time I went to the electronics store, I think these are sold: www.palic.com.au/productview.asp?pid=73This should be alright I hope (if I can't find the Neutriks)? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 3, 2017 22:09:41 GMT
try ebay..
The Palic one may also work, no idea how much room there is inside though.
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Post by darkarn on Jan 4, 2017 17:48:58 GMT
The Palic plug works! It's a bit tight though; more than usual caution will be needed. And yes, I have finished the attenuator! It is working now; the funny part was how my multimeter thinks that each of my wires are connected to all three parts of the plug (tip, ring, sleeve) but still worked anyway Give me a few days to do burn-in, audition it and see its effects.  |
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Post by darkarn on Jan 4, 2017 18:31:18 GMT
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 4, 2017 19:51:14 GMT
The Palic plug works! It's a bit tight though; more than usual caution will be needed. And yes, I have finished the attenuator! It is working now; the funny part was how my multimeter thinks that each of my wires are connected to all three parts of the plug (tip, ring, sleeve) but still worked anyway Give me a few days to do burn-in, audition it and see its effects. The multimeter will show around 73 Ohm from tip to ring on the plug side and measure around 7 Ohm between ring and tip on the socket side. Half the values will be measured from tip or ring to sleeve. There are no parts to be burned in. |
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Post by darkarn on Jan 4, 2017 20:24:11 GMT
The Palic plug works! It's a bit tight though; more than usual caution will be needed. And yes, I have finished the attenuator! It is working now; the funny part was how my multimeter thinks that each of my wires are connected to all three parts of the plug (tip, ring, sleeve) but still worked anyway Give me a few days to do burn-in, audition it and see its effects. The multimeter will show around 73 Ohm from tip to ring on the plug side and measure around 7 Ohm between ring and tip on the socket side. Half the values will be measured from tip or ring to sleeve. There are no parts to be burned in. I have checked with the multimeter and got the values you mentioned, so I think I made it correctly Now here's the strange part: Now I can go beyond the 9 o'clock mark of my amp, but once I go beyond 12 o'clock of my amp, I am hearing dstortions. This is true whether on my Custom ONE Pro, HD 668B or even Swans M10 (powered speakers) This issue is not seen in my Audinst HUD-MX1 (DAC and solid-state amp combo) |
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Post by darkarn on Jan 5, 2017 3:44:07 GMT
Now that I have gotten some sleep and the family's out with me home alone, I did more tests... Apparently, regardless of the volume of the M10, as long the tube amp goes beyond 12 o'clock, distortions can be heard. The same does not happen with my Audinst HUD-MX1 even when both the M10 and that are at full volume. Furthermore, I kept getting tingling sensations from my tube amp if the following steps are done: 1. Connect audio cable (e.g. short 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male cable) to Line In port of tube amp. Don't connect anything else on the other side of the cable. 2. Have a second piece of metal somewhere (e.g. a 2nd audio cable connected to another DAC/amp) 3. Touch both second piece of metal and the exposed metal parts of the 1st audio cable (e.g. the unconnected end of the cable) 4. Tingling sensations will be felt from the exposed metal parts of the 1st audio cable I am starting to suspect that the tube amp is on its way out (see: forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/headphones-earphones-portable-media-devices-314/ground-loop-isolater-5523841.html too) |
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