Rabbit
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Posts: 7,087
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Post by Rabbit on Apr 4, 2015 9:54:30 GMT
I'd like to share my slightly modified Ember. I built it last year and have been using it in stock form with both my 1968 Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globes and a 1971 GE 6DJ8 Smoked Glass. When Jeremy introduced the new aluminum chassis I jumped at the offer and then decided to make a few minor aesthetic changes and add the Supercharger and 6SN7 adapter. 1. The standoffs have been painted satin black to match the anodizing of the chassis. To me, this makes the chassis plates seem to float. 2. A new 32mm knob with black anodized center to match the chassis 3. Replacing the red power indicator LED with a 5mm blue, extended up into the chassis where it sit just behind the Supercharger. This make it much easier to see if the amp is on and produces a nice glow coming from the vent slots. 4. Painted the white ceramic portion of the 6SN7 adapter the same satin black to go with the new chassis. With the GE Smoked Glass With my new JAN CHS 6SN7GT VT231 Another angle Bob
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Apr 4, 2015 14:48:43 GMT
great shots. maybe Bob could give some tips on how they were taken? ie camera settings etc
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obo78
valued member
Posts: 22
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Post by obo78 on Apr 5, 2015 15:01:06 GMT
great shots. maybe Bob could give some tips on how they were taken? ie camera settings etc Those were all taken in my mini "studio" which encompasses a 24" x 36" space on my work desk in the spare bedroom of my apartment. The camera is an Olympus OMD E-M5 and the lens used was the stock 12-50 mm. They were all shot at f/11, ISO 400. The big difference is in the lighting. I used a technique developed by Harold Ross, though I have my own approach. The subject is shot in a totally dark room using small LED flashlights (or in my case, custom made LED lights). The camera is tripod mounted and long shutter speeds are used - in the case of these shots, 13-15 seconds. The shutter is triggered (remotely) and then the light is "painted" around the object is a small, circular motion, a few inches at a time. Usually, at least two exposures (sometimes many more) are then combined on Photoshop. Ross works on a larger scale than I so his lights are usually larger. I do mostly macro/closeup work so I created my own lights using LEDs, plastic tubing, and a home brew voltage regulator to avoid battery drain issues. I also used some simple white board reflectors to bounce some of the blue light back onto the Ember. If you look at the " Leaf Portrait" series on my portfolio site you will see other examples. Ross's site is very comprehensive on technique, offering video and written instruction. Bob
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oldson
extremely active
Posts: 1,678
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Post by oldson on Apr 5, 2015 16:39:21 GMT
great shots. maybe Bob could give some tips on how they were taken? ie camera settings etc Those were all taken in my mini "studio" which encompasses a 24" x 36" space on my work desk in the spare bedroom of my apartment. The camera is an Olympus OMD E-M5 and the lens used was the stock 12-50 mm. They were all shot at f/11, ISO 400. The big difference is in the lighting. I used a technique developed by Harold Ross, though I have my own approach. The subject is shot in a totally dark room using small LED flashlights (or in my case, custom made LED lights). The camera is tripod mounted and long shutter speeds are used - in the case of these shots, 13-15 seconds. The shutter is triggered (remotely) and then the light is "painted" around the object is a small, circular motion, a few inches at a time. Usually, at least two exposures (sometimes many more) are then combined on Photoshop. Ross works on a larger scale than I so his lights are usually larger. I do mostly macro/closeup work so I created my own lights using LEDs, plastic tubing, and a home brew voltage regulator to avoid battery drain issues. I also used some simple white board reflectors to bounce some of the blue light back onto the Ember. If you look at the " Leaf Portrait" series on my portfolio site you will see other examples. Ross's site is very comprehensive on technique, offering video and written instruction. Bob Bob thanks for the reply. i think i will leave the photography up to you mate. as i suspected, to try and replicate that, would be beyond me. cheers Simon
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