oldson
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Post by oldson on Jul 23, 2023 16:36:32 GMT
i finally grew tired of my HD800 and they will be departing in the morning. ever since buying my Dynaudio Emit 10 speakers i have noticed i dont use headphones anywhere near as much as i used to. where the HD800 is concerned its because of the lack of warmth. personally i much prefer a warmer sound over neutral (ish).
last week i home trialled the Meze 109 pro, which suited me much more. some reviewers say these are bright, but to my 58 year old ears, they are not. so these are on my shortlist. this week i will be trying the Quad ERA-1 which does not seem to get much publicity, so will be interesting.
have conidered something from the Focal range but i have been put off by reports of "creaking", "cracking" and breaking headbands across the range.
others i am hoping to try are the Dan Clark Aeon2 closed/noire and Beyer T5.
for now whatever i get will be powered by either my Project Ember or Violectric V200, so power is not a problem.
just to complicate the situation a bit....... in the near future i would like to try a full Valve amp, something like the Icon Audio HP8. trouble is i have read low impedence phones do not suit valve amps. is this only true with OTL? and would i be ok with transformer coupled? this could affect my headphone search.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Jul 23, 2023 14:02:08 GMT
interested in this as i fancy the A2C noire.
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Post by oldson on Nov 24, 2021 18:07:11 GMT
But this aside. Are you happy with your headphone after you finished the filter? I do use my Kameleon with DT770 filter 80ohm version quite a lot when my wife is watching soaps on TV and I don't want to watch that crap so I suppose that answers your question, yes I am happy with my headphones + kameleon combination.
I thought the DT770 was a brilliant headphone before the filter but what do I know?
The first thing noticed when I listened for the first time was the flabby bloated bass had gone and it was far more controlled and not bleeding into the mids, more tight and punchy with more sub bass, and the treble peak had gone giving a very nice sound to my cloth ears.
The DT770 is the only decent headphone I own really, so I cannot compare it to other good headphones like the Sennheisers.
I only own closed back headphones and only once owned a pair of open backed headphones which defeated the object of listening when people around you can hear your music and you can hear everything going on from outside:-X
i would echo your views on filtered DT770. i still use mine (250 ohm) when i need to be quiet, but tend to stick with speakers these days mostly.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Nov 20, 2021 18:00:23 GMT
Sorry for seeing this a bit late, Simon I can help you to setup EAC if you want. There is no reason why it should give you any trouble ripping to USB sticks. Which version are you using? on which Windows? Is your PC updated to latest everything? Personally I only go use commercial software when there is no decent free alternatives and in case of CD ripping there are fantastic ones available namely EAC or CUETools. Newer versions of EAC allow for ripping to FLAC and MP3 at the same time (never tried it though). I'd rather rip to FLAC and keep a lossless copy of the CD in my PC and then use the very fast Batchconverter app to convert those to MP3 for the car. Cheers not to worry mate, i have deleted eac at the moment but i did try their latest version. im using windows 10 64 at the moment and all updates are done. i am quite happy to use poweramp for the time being as, so far, i find it really simple to use.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Nov 11, 2021 17:43:55 GMT
poweramp seems to work a treat for me, reckon I'll purchase a license. thanks for recommending.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Nov 1, 2021 20:33:24 GMT
i feel i should read up on tagging and get my head around it.
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Post by oldson on Oct 30, 2021 18:07:05 GMT
i have been using EAC for years to rip my cd's to my pc with only a few hitches along the way. still finding it great for my pc, but having trouble when i want to rip to usb sticks for use in my 2 vehicles. i have always preferred to use flac files which seems ok in my own vehicle. i have just had a new company van delivered which has a unit that will play music from usb stick, but it appears not flac files. (came to this conclusion myself as manual does not specify playable files. so for this new van i need to get a new usb stick and rip to mp3 instead of flac. have tried several times with eac and foobar but not really getting anywhere. album, artist track info and album art all seem to be hit and miss. on my pc library i dont have album art as i dont need it, but when in my vehicles its nice to see it ( sad i know). so rather than struggling on with these free rippers, is there something out there that is SIMPLE to follow and suit ripping in both formats, with or without album art? cheers How new is the van? It seems odd to me that it wouldn't play flac files. Just off the top of my head I would think the problem might be more due to tagging than the format. Possibly your flac have some unsupported tags or the embedded album art is too big or wrong format. I would try mp3tag and strip all but the most important tags and scale to artwork to 1000x or less. Its been ages since I last fired up EAC (my laptop doesn't even have an optical drive), but from what I remember it should write the tags to mp3 just as well as flac. I have a program called cuetools that can rip to both lossy & lossless, but again, no drive so I can't say how well it'd work. But it is free so it might be worth a download. If your looking at purchasing software for this purpose, I can't recommend dbpoweramp enough. It'll do almost anything you need with music files and it is fairly easy to use, plus it has a good support forum. PS. If you want, PM me an album of files & I can take a look at them for you and see if I can figure out what's tripping you up. Ultimately it should be faster to "fix" the flac if needed rather than have to rerip (of course you could just convert the flac to mp3 with foobar and see if that works) <edit> I forgot to add… you should use m4a instead of mp3. mp3 actually hasn't seen anything resembling an update in decades and m4a is being constantly improved (m4a isn't an Apple format either, it was created by the same guys that did mp3 (Fraunhofer Society) hi mate, thanks for the reply. the van is brand new but support literature is all but useless. it doesnt state supported files or max memory stick size. i did reformat an old usb stick and ripped just 1 flac file as a test but the head unit would not play it. i dont really understand tagging and tbh just want something really simple to use that has all necessary plugins already installed, i dont mind paying at all for something that requires little thought from me. interested in dbpoweramp following your recommendation. i assume this could mean i can delete foobar and eac? i guess i have nothing to lose by trialling it.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Oct 29, 2021 19:01:21 GMT
i have been using EAC for years to rip my cd's to my pc with only a few hitches along the way. still finding it great for my pc, but having trouble when i want to rip to usb sticks for use in my 2 vehicles. i have always preferred to use flac files which seems ok in my own vehicle. i have just had a new company van delivered which has a unit that will play music from usb stick, but it appears not flac files. (came to this conclusion myself as manual does not specify playable files.
so for this new van i need to get a new usb stick and rip to mp3 instead of flac. have tried several times with eac and foobar but not really getting anywhere. album, artist track info and album art all seem to be hit and miss. on my pc library i dont have album art as i dont need it, but when in my vehicles its nice to see it ( sad i know).
so rather than struggling on with these free rippers, is there something out there that is SIMPLE to follow and suit ripping in both formats, with or without album art? cheers
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Apr 27, 2020 20:44:00 GMT
i would not be overly worried by the pulse rate, tbh. pretty sure its not overly accurate when in arrhythmia . mine would regularly go up to 240 bpm, actually almost every time. but of course it is not proper beats. the A&E doctors used to say to me that they were surprised i didnt faint, due to lowered blood pressure(where the heart is pumping with low efficiency). though i do remember once in A&E the doctors shouting at me to stay awake! i did not feel faint though, just really tired. i did used to get banging headaches with my arrhythmia, which came on instantly and they were horrible. in A&E their first priority was to bring heart rate back down, which usually involved an injection of some drug (cant remember) but it made me feel like crap for about 2 seconds. after that my heart rate would steadily reduce to normal. once that was done they used to inject a pain killer, which stopped the headache instantly. then it was a case of staying put for around 5-6 hours being monitored. usually meaning a long tiring night. hopefully all behind me now. But i did ask the doctor, who performed my ablation, what the chances were of a recurrence, "never say never" was the reply. so fingers crossed, its been 4 or 5 years now.
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Post by oldson on Apr 26, 2020 19:08:42 GMT
I doubt that I have covid Simon. I think the doctor just made a wild guess on the phone. He did say that there are a load of symptoms not reported though. Youmay well have had it! The cough is still here and my lungs feel weird. The xrays that I have had have shown clear lungs though, so I don’t get it. I’m waiting to see if it gets really bad and maybe then, the doctors might spot what it is. I cut the lawn yesterday and boy, did that knock me for six for the rest of the day. Pain under my collarbone and hard to breathe. Then later, heart racing. AF episode I think. I just kept still and did deep breathing. Pulse only went between 120 and 130 this time. It has reached 150. I’ve kind of got used to detecting it now and it seems that exertion sets it off. Only 4 months to see a specialist!!! 4 months!!!!! that must be because of this virus? otherwise that is appalling! not sure if fluid build up in the lungs would show on an xray! btw, others may know. i was due to have a ct scan on my abdomen recently, but it has now been postponed until further notice, which is fair enough under the circumstances. the trouble i was having appears to have gone, so not too concerned. have they given you things to try and slow the arrhythmia when it starts, like blowing into a large syringe or paper bag?? the syringe worked on occasion for me. stress is a major trigger too, so you can end up in a catch 22 situation, if not careful. i know i did. i also wonder if this time of year, mild hay-fever could be a trigger, it would not surprise me. it may also help to keep a daily diary of your activities and bouts of arrhythmia, as this could help identify triggers. include food and drink! i'm probably teaching you to suck eggs? keep us posted mate
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Post by oldson on Apr 25, 2020 17:37:47 GMT
i was told, when i had my arrhythmia that it could indeed cause a cough. they said it was due to a build up of fluid in the lungs. i never really experienced it , but i know others that have. its great that your mri result was good.
i had a strange "virus" type thing 2 moths ago, i felt rough for only 3 days but on the 3rd night i woke up absolutely drenched in sweat. never had this before in my life. could it have been covid? i guess i will never know.
it would be so nice if, once you have had it you are immune, but i see the latest from WHO is that there is "no evidence to support" this.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Apr 11, 2020 18:22:58 GMT
Where is the USB port you're using? I've read that many people have issues using USB ports on the PC's front panel (usually connected via umbilical). Apparently it's far better using the USB that are directly connected to the motherboard. I can't confirm this, I've been a laptop user for ages now. i only use the front ports for copying to and from usb sticks, and funnily enough i have had problems with those, in the past. all is good now though
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Apr 10, 2020 21:34:09 GMT
I get a similar click on my Shanling M2s if I use it in DAC mode. Shanling was able to confirm the issue, but could only reproduce it on certain PCs and it seemed like Hiby (the guys that actually wrote the firmware for it) didn't want to bother trying to fix it. (Thankfully Shanling is writing their own firmware now) I guess the standard troubleshooting would apply for you. Try different USB cables and ports. Check for any updated USB drivers. Try different buffer sizes/speeds. Oddly my M2s would play click free if I upscaled everything to DSD - maybe try and see if that helps. just swapped the usb from a usb3 socket to usb2 and its far better. maybe something is wrong with the usb3 socket or driver???
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Post by oldson on Apr 8, 2020 17:12:43 GMT
i am due to be furloughed in 2 weeks time, so will be able to devote more time to it then
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Post by oldson on Apr 8, 2020 17:09:45 GMT
ok found it. it was on safe mode already. clicks are still present, but since i have adjusted the aiso sample rate, aiso is now working in exclusive mode. so thats progress i guess. just need to isolate these clicks, may still be usb issue.
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