BMF
contributing
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Post by BMF on Jan 10, 2017 21:29:33 GMT
Frans,
Following your test guide for the amp:
Using 2 toroids as you suggested, Mains Input on each side = 20VAC...is this too high?
IC Pins 1 and 2 = fluctuates from 4mV to 5mV...is this OK?
IC Pins 7 and 8 = 0.0V
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 10, 2017 21:56:01 GMT
Does the fluctuating channel have any audible noise ?
20V AC will give around 27V DC but this is only this high when the amp is not loaded.
It is designed to handle up to 30V DC.
As long as the LM317 and LM317 do not get warmer than handwarm this is no problem.
Under load the voltage will sag a bit.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 10, 2017 23:09:26 GMT
When playing music, the Mains measure 19.6VAC on both sides.
Trying to test the IC DC at Pins 1 and 2 when playing music trips the protection circuit.
No noise.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 11, 2017 5:52:13 GMT
Looks O.K.
When the LM regulators don't get hot all is O.K.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 11, 2017 13:45:39 GMT
Looks O.K. When the LM regulators don't get hot all is O.K. OK, thanks. The regulators do not get hot. Warning for others to not make my mistake: Although I tried to be careful when testing the amp, my DMM probe slipped off the amp ground terminal and briefly made contact with one of the unused SMD pads. There was a spark and a loud pop! Fortunately, this did not destroy the amp or even blow the fuse. The amp still works just fine so I dodged that bullet. |
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BMF
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Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 24, 2017 23:14:55 GMT
Frans,
I have Kameleon v2 up and running and happy with the SQ using the no-filter/gain module. Setup in 2 Hammond cases per your instructions with meticulous measurements with a digital caliper; everything lined up and fits. I'm waiting on IEC and DIN connectors, MOV, TE5 fuse, and cabling for power supply from mouser to finish up.
In your instructions, I think you say to connect the mute wiring to the mute switch And the Green/Red LED. If so, why? The amp and mute switch work without this connection.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 25, 2017 5:59:15 GMT
The amp will work without the mute switch.
However, when changing modules you can leave the amp powered up and just 'mute' the output.
For that you can use the mute switch.
But you can also use the power-switch instead and saves you drilling a hole and a switch.
Some people may want the LED elsewhere on the front and then it needs wiring.
Will check on how I have written this.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 26, 2017 13:02:15 GMT
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 27, 2017 13:07:14 GMT
The amp will work without the mute switch. However, when changing modules you can leave the amp powered up and just 'mute' the output. For that you can use the mute switch. But you can also use the power-switch instead and saves you drilling a hole and a switch. Some people may want the LED elsewhere on the front and then it needs wiring. Will check on how I have written this. Frans, I misread the following statement on page 16 of your Desktop version build guide to mean that 'the LED and Mute switch are wired together' but this is not shown to be case on the schematic: You wrote, "Align the indication LED with the hole and connect the mute switch to its wires." What threw me was the unclear referent of "its;" the LED wires or the switch wires? I think what you meant is: "Align the indication LED with its PCB holes" (and solder in place). BTW, I used sockets in the LED PCB holes for easily changing the LED or correcting a polarity problem. and separately, "Connect the mute switch to its (mute switch) wires from the PCB." Am I correct that this is what you meant? Keith |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 27, 2017 17:06:14 GMT
Correct !
Will correct this in the manual when the next update is done.
thanks.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 28, 2017 21:08:43 GMT
OK, thanks.
FWIW, I bought a Dremel Moto Saw. It cut through the top and back aluminum plates of the Hammond enclosure containing the amp/module access like butter.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Jan 30, 2017 0:13:56 GMT
I finished up the enclosures and built the HD-650 filter module, today. Sound Quality is outstanding! I was already happy with HD-650 but this is noticeably better. I'm outta gas at the moment, so I'll post pictures later. Impressive design, Frans. Many thanks for your seemingly unlimited generosity to the DIY community. Keith "Gas Tank" refilled, so here are the pix:     |
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Feb 1, 2017 0:43:26 GMT
I built DT-990 filter module. Much better sound quality than stock.
Frans, should I use the AKG-702 module BOM for AKG-7xx?
Thanks!
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Feb 1, 2017 12:31:57 GMT
The K712 is closest to the K7xx
The latest filtermodule manual should have a filter for K712.
Do note that the K7.. series filters are all based on 3rd party measurements.
On the first page of this topic you can see what filters exist.
Those that have a * behind the description have been based on my own measurements.
Those without a star sign behind it may not be truly optimal but most likely will improve the sound.
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BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
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Post by BMF on Feb 1, 2017 13:02:50 GMT
My mistake. I meant to type 712.
Thanks. I'll build 712, tonight.
I'd like to buy 2 more Kameleon v2 desktop pcb sets and a dozen filter modules, if available. Kameleon v2 will make great gifts
for my son and brother.
Keith
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