BMF
contributing
Posts: 99 
|
Post by BMF on Jan 7, 2017 2:49:21 GMT
Did I use the wrong DIP 8 socket?
Does anyone see any obvious problems?
The LED positive is through the positive Square hole.
I will test tomorrow after the alcohol has dried. Thank you, Frans, for the testing guidelines.
I tried to link pictures to my googledrive but it didn' work.
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 7, 2017 9:42:44 GMT
Yep, wrong DIP socket. It MUST be a spring loaded DIP socket (as swhown below). Only these types of DIP sockets will accept header pins.  |
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 7, 2017 10:47:20 GMT
I have the correct DIP ordered from the BOM 6 months ago. I must have grabbed the wrong one from my parts bin when I sorted parts back then. I knew I goofed when cleaning off flux. I'll replace it.
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 7, 2017 11:26:54 GMT
A way to get the socket out is by cutting away the plastic around the pins so the pins will only be there.
Then you can easily solder out each pin by heating the pin and pull it out with small nose pliers, one by one.
Then empty the holes with either a desolder-gun or desolder litze or by heating the solder and blowing it out by compressed air.
Another way is to heat the solder and then quickly tap the PCB on the table while the solder is still molten.
Watch out for splatter of hot molten droplets with the last 2 methods.
Also check the PCB afterwards from small solder droplets that may cause shorts.
|
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 7, 2017 20:47:07 GMT
A way to get the socket out is by cutting away the plastic around the pins so the pins will only be there. Then you can easily solder out each pin by heating the pin and pull it out with small nose pliers, one by one. Then empty the holes with either a desolder-gun or desolder litze or by heating the solder and blowing it out by compressed air. Another way is to heat the solder and then quickly tap the PCB on the table while the solder is still molten. Watch out for splatter of hot molten droplets with the last 2 methods. Also check the PCB afterwards from small solder droplets that may cause shorts. Frans, See attached pix for my FUBAR. I used wire cutters to cut the DIP in half. This torqued it and screwed up Pins 6, 7, and 8 vias. Hopefully, my "patch" will work. I tested the Power Supply and everything checked out as you directed. As always, thanks for the help!  I used the Wrong DIP-8 instead of the spring-loaded version called for in the BOM.  Corrected DIP-8 with jumper from Pin 6 to fix destroyed Pin 6 via   |
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 8, 2017 12:42:42 GMT
Frans,
Is there a description somewhere for testing the Amp? I've confirmed continuity from PS to Amp, Amp to HP to TRS, RCAs to Input, and my DIY "patch" jumpers to C102 and C104. I have not yet installed a Mute switch. I'm using your Flat Gain module with 2.7k ohm and 22k ohm resistors. Only the left channel works and tried several headphones. What / Where are the most logical test points?
Thanks,
Keith
EDIT: Problem solved. I checked continuity from side to side, bit by bit. The problem was a cold joint on one side of the R201 jumper.
Now, I will order parts for various filters and the cross feed.
|
|
|
|
Post by chinook9 on Jan 8, 2017 14:55:46 GMT
Happy new year Keith! Saw these posts and thought I'd say hello.
Good luck with your present project.
Brian
|
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 8, 2017 15:24:44 GMT
Happy new year Keith! Saw these posts and thought I'd say hello. Good luck with your present project. Brian Hi Brian! HNY to you and yours, too. I've built quite a few amps since the early CMOY days. I'm listening to Kameleon v2 right now and I like what I hear.  The most challenging amp to build is Sjostrom Audio QRV-08 but it was fun and sounds great. Next up, filter modules for Kameleon, XEN F5 HA V2 GB (Nelson Pass inspired), and Neurochrome HP-1. Eventually, I will have to put all my DIY amps into enclosures...currently sitting on wooden boards except for QRV-08. |
|
|
|
Post by chinook9 on Jan 8, 2017 15:38:09 GMT
The Kameleon is very nice and the filters make the most of any headphone.
I have built a Twisted Pear Buffalo IIISE and a couple (AK4399 & AD1862) of DIYINHK DACs. I'm not familiar with the amps you built but I will check them out.
Please PM me the names of the enclosures you use. I have used Par-Metal which are pretty good and relatively inexpensive ($70-100) but the shipping ($30) is quite high.
|
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 8, 2017 16:35:49 GMT
Frans,
I'm interested in building a filter for HD650, among others. You mention the old and new versions of HD650. Is the white material around the driver seen through the grille or must the pads come off to determine which version I have? I see a white "donut" around the driver as seen through the grille. The corrected FR for the old and new version look a bit different. If I have the old version, what should be changed to flatten the bass similar to the new version FR? Or, do you advise against this?
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 8, 2017 20:03:08 GMT
Looks like the new version.
No need to take the pads off.
You can see it from the outside.
In both versions the ring of the driver itself is white.
The screen around the driver is what tells the newer and older versions apart.
The biggest differences are not the screen colours though, but the compliance of the pads.
New pads are rather firm.
Older (worn) pads are softer and compress more.
When you have a rather new one with fairly new pads you would have to build the 'silver screen' filter.
When you have very soft earpads that compress quite easily opt for the 'black screen' filter.
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 9, 2017 20:44:51 GMT
I just uploaded the improved Kameleon-2 manuals. Both the portable and desktop manuals have had errors corrected and additional info added. |
|
BMF
contributing
Posts: 99
|
Post by BMF on Jan 10, 2017 13:04:13 GMT
I just uploaded the improved Kameleon-2 manuals. Both the portable and desktop manuals have had errors corrected and additional info added. Great work, as usual! I think C49 on the PS BOM is missing. When/If you have time, it would be helpful to include the information you shared with me in a post on page 11 of this thread about the procedure for testing the PS. Is there also a testing procedure for the amp? Is biasing an issue with Kameleon v2? Thank you, Frans. |
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 10, 2017 18:48:33 GMT
Hmmm... something went wrong with the upload, the old file wasn't replaced
Will need to upload again.
Thanks for letting me know.
The new version has test protocols in there as well.
|
|
solderdude
Administrator
measureutternutter
Posts: 4,886
|
Post by solderdude on Jan 10, 2017 20:54:21 GMT
Should be fixed now !
|
|
