solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 20, 2016 12:55:01 GMT
filter modules in the article are updated.
Some modules added and some are changed slightly.
Errors in a few BOM lists have been corrected (Mouser order codes were wrong on 4k7 resistors in some modules)
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Nov 20, 2016 13:28:19 GMT
Ah yes, my mistake. I meant R101 and R201 on the Kameleon amplifier board need to be shorted. R1R and R1L are not needed in the Kameleon-2, they are only essential for the in-line version. That makes sense now Frans,  Do I need to remove the resistors then solder bridge R101 & 2 or do you just solder over the resistors? Without stripping the Kameleon down and removing the PCB there is not a lot of room to work within the case, but I reckon with a steady hand I could do it in situ if I don't have to remove the resistors. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 20, 2016 18:05:14 GMT
Yes, just throw a drop of solder over R101 and R102. sorry R201
No need to remove them.
Chances are though that when doing that the resistors will 'swim' a bit though.
Hint: solder drop on one end of the resistor.
Let it cool off a bit.
Solderdrop on the other end of the resistor.
Let it cool off.
Then quickly apply some solder between those solder 'drops'.
This may prevent the resistor from 'swimming' of the pads.
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 21, 2016 14:04:45 GMT
Yes, just throw a drop of solder over R101 and R102. No need to remove them. Chances are though that when doing that the resistors will 'swim' a bit though. Hint: solder drop on one end of the resistor. Let it cool off a bit. Solderdrop on the other end of the resistor. Let it cool off. Then quickly apply some solder between those solder 'drops'. This may prevent the resistor from 'swimming' of the pads. Thanks for the hint Frans, it worked perfectly on R201 but on R101 it did just what you said and swam about and soldered itself to C101. I have just noticed typing this in that I have soldered over R201 instead of R102  as you will see from the pic below.  Oh well back to the drawing board. I had a quick listen and it definitely seemed louder - probably about right? I will need to alter my mistake and have another listen. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 21, 2016 15:55:21 GMT
You soldered the correct ones !
Both resistors near the potmeter must be shorted.
Do NOT short R102 and R202
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 21, 2016 20:55:48 GMT
You soldered the correct ones ! Both resistors near the potmeter must be shorted. Do NOT short R102 and R202 I was convinced I had soldered the wrong one Frans, it's a good job I waited until your reply before putting my ham fisted mits inside the casework again  Thanks |
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BMF
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Post by BMF on Jan 4, 2017 0:38:39 GMT
Hi All,
I'm building Kameleon II. I finished the power supply and I'm ready to test it. I have on hand a transformer that may work but I'm unsure. It's a Talema 62033-P2S02 ( I think made by Amveco) toroid 15-0-15. Here's the data sheet:
media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Amveco%20PDFs/62000%20Series%20Low%20Profile%20Miniature%20Transformers.pdf
Has anyone tried this one? I tested it setup in with its secondaries in parallel according to the data sheet as well as opposite. I don't know if I did it correctly, though.
Any guidance about this transformer with Kameleon II and which wires should be tied together, if it will work at all, will be greatly appreciated.
~BMF
PS, Frans: There is a typo error on the BOM. T39 is listed in both the BC556 and BC546 sections of the power supply BOM but it's clear on the schematics. Also, the large caps' leads I ordered are too big to fit the PTH holes. I used a Dremel to make them thinner and that works.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 4, 2017 8:54:10 GMT
Hi Keith,
I received the exact same comments about the BOM list (T38 and T39) and about the caps.
The large caps I used I ordered from e-bay and weren't the ones I prescribed, these went in just fine and had 'normal' thickness leads.
He also mentioned that C49 (100nF) wasn't mentioned in the BOM
Will look into it and take lead diameter in consideration when selecting a capacitor.
Shall make the changes in the build manual.
Want to add some other things as well.
7W is on the small side of things. Would prefer a 15W version (62053)
It will work on the 7W transformer BUT when the output is loaded with 32 Ohm and a continuous sinewave is applied under maximum output voltage the protection circuit may shortly activate.
You won't experience problems using this transformer with music signals though... only with full power under max load with a continous test signal.
Keep the transformer physically away from the filter modules. The inductors on the filter board may pick up hum when the transformer is close-by.
For 110V:
yellow to red = neutral from mains
black to violet = live from mains
green to outer 15V AC input connection of board.
blue to other 15V AC input connection of board.
red to the ground connection of the AC input connector (next to the green one)
brown to the other ground connection of the AC input connector (between the red and blue one)
When you have 2 of these small transformers you can create a 14W toroid.
Requires different wiring in this case.
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BMF
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Post by BMF on Jan 4, 2017 11:21:09 GMT
Hi Keith, I received the exact same comments about the BOM list (T38 and T39) and about the caps. The large caps I used I ordered from e-bay and weren't the ones I prescribed, these went in just fine and had 'normal' thickness leads. He also mentioned that C49 (100nF) wasn't mentioned in the BOM Will look into it and take lead diameter in consideration when selecting a capacitor. Shall make the changes in the build manual. Want to add some other things as well. 7W is on the small side of things. Would prefer a 15W version (62053) It will work on the 7W transformer BUT when the output is loaded with 32 Ohm and a continuous sinewave is applied under maximum output voltage the protection circuit may shortly activate. You won't experience problems using this transformer with music signals though... only with full power under max load with a continous test signal. Keep the transformer physically away from the filter modules. The inductors on the filter board may pick up hum when the transformer is close-by. For 110V: yellow to red = neutral from mains black to violet = live from mains green to outer 15V AC input connection of board. blue to other 15V AC input connection of board. red to the ground connection of the AC input connector (next to the green one) brown to the other ground connection of the AC input connector (between the red and blue one) When you have 2 of these small transformers you can create a 14W toroid. Requires different wiring in this case. Hi Frans, I was just about to mention that after more carefully looking at the data sheet I figured out the wiring for the mini toroid. Still, I missed the 7 watt limiting factor. Thank you for your detailed and rapid reply. I have 2 of these mini toroids left over from a QRV-08 build. I think, however, I'll order an encapsulate transformer. The one shown in your guide is not available from Mouser. Would this one work? If not, would you please recommend an encapsulated EI transformer and a shielded toroidal transformer from Mouser? www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bel/IF-24-30/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugeJlcERubZndbylY%2fSOHKjZCil5kvfvgQ%3dRE: Your Build Instructions... No one provides the level of detail and pictures, And no one is more responsive and helpful than you! Many thanks for all you contribute to the DIY community. Keith PS, In addition to the power supply, amp, and filter PCBs you sent me, there is another PCB about the same size as the amp PCB. I don't have it in front of me but I think it's labeled something like "filter module;" it's not the little FR compensation filter boards... What's it for? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 4, 2017 11:50:51 GMT
I would not recommend the laminated type. These have a high magnetic stray field. I would opt for any toroid between 15W and 30W.
BUT as you have 2 of these 7W I would simply use 2 of these.
Primary connections will be the same for each trafo.
The secondary side must be connected as follows:
Each trafo:
connect green to brown
connect red to blue
Each trafo now has become a 15V single winding transformer.
Connect the paralleled transformers each as follows:
trafo one: green + brown to one outer AC input pin
trafo one: red + blue to one ground pin next to the AC input pin the green+brown was connected to.
trafo two: red + blue to the other AC outer input pin
trafo two: green + brown to the remaining open ground pin (between the red+blue of trafo 1 and red+blue of trafo 2)
I believe I sent you filter boards + another small board which is crossfeed filter board.
When it is a bigger board please take a picture.
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BMF
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Post by BMF on Jan 4, 2017 22:24:02 GMT
I would not recommend the laminated type. These have a high magnetic stray field. I would opt for any toroid between 15W and 30W. BUT as you have 2 of these 7W I would simply use 2 of these. Primary connections will be the same for each trafo. The secondary side must be connected as follows: Each trafo: connect green to brown connect red to blue Each trafo now has become a 15V single winding transformer. Connect the paralleled transformers each as follows: trafo one: green + brown to one outer AC input pin trafo one: red + blue to one ground pin next to the AC input pin the green+brown was connected to. trafo two: red + blue to the other AC outer input pin trafo two: green + brown to the remaining open ground pin (between the red+blue of trafo 1 and red+blue of trafo 2) I believe I sent you filter boards + another small board which is crossfeed filter board. When it is a bigger board please take a picture. Cool! Thanks for the hook-ups. A few questions: 1. Common Mode Filter: Passive or Active? I have a Hammond 158L...will that work? 2. Which lighted Power switch do you recommend and where would you tap into the power supply? 3. I found a panel mount fuse holder on Mouser that costs $10. Is that a decent price? 4. I don't have thermal paste. Will thermal pads suffice? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 4, 2017 23:00:28 GMT
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BMF
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Post by BMF on Jan 4, 2017 23:53:19 GMT
OK, I appreciate you so much, Frans! Keith |
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BMF
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Post by BMF on Jan 6, 2017 19:49:36 GMT
Pardon me if I've overlooked a description of how to go about testing the Power Supply. I've searched this thread to no avail.
I tested one cap on the output side and it measured 17v.
What is the recommended testing procedure, Frans?
Thanks,
Keith
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 6, 2017 23:33:55 GMT
Looks like indeed I haven't touched that subject.
will have to add this to the manual as well.
When you have the power supply board and not yet connected it to the amplifier board you can test that PS board.
(Temporarily) mount the 2-color LED
Connect the 15V transformer to the input.
Put power on it.
The LED should light red for a short while and then turn green (depending on which way it is soldered on the board)
When this turns out to be the other way around simply de-solder the LED, rotate 180 degrees and solder it in again.
Remove the power from the transformer.. The LED should remain green for a while (because no load is present) and after a while turn red and slowly dim.
Connect the power again.
There should be around 24V across the power supply caps C32 and C38.
When you connect the black lead of the multimeter to the 'gnd' connection (next to the rectifier) and the red lead to '+ reg' (near C37) there should be around +16.5V(+/-0.5V)
When you connect the red lead of the multimeter to '- reg' there should be around -16.5V(+/-0.5V)
When you make a connection between the 2 'mute' pins the relays should click and the LED should be red.
When you open the connection again the LED should be green again.
check the relay operation as follows.
open the 'mute' connection. When the LED is green there should be an Ohmic connection between L(amp side) and L(HP side) as well as between R(amp side) and R(HP side)
connect the mute connection. the LED should be red. There must be no connection between L(amp side) and L(HP side) as well as between R(amp side) and R(HP side)
For the next test you need a 1.5V battery and 2 wires connected to it (use cellotape or something)
This is to test the DC protection.
open the mute connection.
the LED should be green.
Connect the - of the battery to 'gnd'.
Connect the + of the battery to 'L amp side'. The LED must become red after a short time.
remove the + of the battery from 'L amp side'. The LED must become green after a while.
Connect the + of the battery to 'R amp side'. The LED must become red after a short time.
remove the + of the battery from 'R amp side'. The LED must become green after a while.
Now the same test but reverse polarity of the battery so:
Connect the + of the battery to 'gnd'.
Connect the - of the battery to 'L amp side'. The LED must become red after a short time.
remove the - of the battery from 'L amp side'. The LED must become green after a while.
Connect the - of the battery to 'R amp side'. The LED must become red after a short time.
remove the - of the battery from 'R amp side'. The LED must become green after a while.
When this works O.K. the DC protection works O.K.
To test the DC imbalance protection of the power supply do the following test:
You will need an 18k or 22k resistor.
power on, wait till the LED is green.
Put the 18k (or 22k) resistor temporarily in parallel to R32.
The LED should turn red.
remove the resistor and the LED must be green again.
Put the 18k (or 22k) resistor temporarily in parallel to R34.
The LED should turn red.
remove the resistor and the LED must be green again.
When these tests are O.K. the board is fine.
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as you will see from the pic below.
