Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Sept 30, 2016 19:04:16 GMT
I finally had time to finish the cross-feed module thanks to Frans   I decided to have a good listen to it and did not like what I heard  I knew it would narrow the sound-stage down but that was an understatement. Just about every band I listened to felt as if they were playing right in the middle of my head  Some people may like it - but it is not for me. I had a word with Frans and he so kindly swapped me some components along with the crossfeed filter for a new filter for my DT770 headphones. This may need a bit of tweaking as it is for the 250ohms version and my headphones are the 80ohms version thanks to Ian So when I find a spare millisecond I will build the filter and review it. BTW - anybody who has not heard the Kameleon and can solder then I strongly suggest you have a go at building one, it is well worth the effort and of course it sounds brilliant. Thanks again Frans |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Oct 29, 2016 8:56:55 GMT
updated the supported headphone list with more modules:
AKG K612 (K601) (lowers treble peaks and adds subbass)
AKG K701 (removes the 2kHz treble peak, lowers the upper treble and adds missing bass)
AKG K702 (removes the 2kHz treble peak, lowers the upper treble and adds missing sub bass)
AKG K712 (adds subbass, lowers warmth a tiny bit, removes slight treble peak)
AKG K7xx (adds subbass, lowers warmth a tiny bit, removes slight treble peak)
AKG K812 (adds subbass, lowers warmth somewhat, removes slight treble peak)
Audeze LCD2 / LCD2 rev2 (adds slight subbass and improves clarity, removes treble peak) NOT for Fazor versions
Audeze LCD3 (adds slight subbass and improves clarity, removes treble peak) NOT for Fazor versions
audio technica ATH-M40X (lowers bass hump and treble peak and extends subbass)
Beyerdynamic DT770-Pro 250 (lowers the bass slightly and removes the treble peak)
Beyerdynamic DT990-600 (old version) (lowers the bass and treble 'hump' and extends subbass)
Beyerdynamic DT990-Pro 250 (lowers the bass and treble 'hump' and extends subbass)
Beyerdynamic DT1350 with EDT1350-NL/SL pads (adds the (sub)bass that is removed by the larger pads)
Denon AH-D2000 (removes the treble issues, improves clarity/presence)
Modified Fostex T50RP is ONLY intended for T50RP's with SRH940 pads fitted)
Fostex T50RP stock (adds bass and midbass bloom, extends treble and removes treble peak)
Fostex T50RP with HM5 velourspads (adds bass, extends treble and removes treble peak)
Fostex TH-X00 (adds subbass, lowers midbass and removes the slight treble peak)
Mr Speakers Alpha Dog (adds some clarity and adds 'sparkle' up top)
HiFIMan HE5 (adds some clarity and equalizes the treble peak)
HiFIMan HE6 (adds some clarity and removes the treble peak)
HIFIMan HE350 (adds subbass and removes treble peak)
HiFIMan HE400i (adds bass and warmth, removes the treble peak)
HiFIMan HE500 (adds some clarity and removes the treble peak)
HiFIMan HE560 (adds some subbass, clarity and removes the treble peak)
Philips SHP9500 (adds some bass and body and clarity, removes some treble)
Philips Fidelio X1 (adds some sub bass and clarity)
Philips Fidelio X2 (increases clarity and removes treble peak)
Philips A5Pro stock pads (corrects the overall tonal balance towards a more Hi-Fi signature)
Philips A5Pro velours pads (adds some sub bass, clarity and treble extension)
Sennheiser Momentum OVER-ear (shaves off some bass, adds sparkle up top and extends sublows)
Sennheiser HD555 / HD595 (adds some subbass)
Sennheiser HD598 ( adds some subbass and lowers treble peak)
Sennheiser HD580 / HD600 (extends subbass, removes slight upper mids peak)
Sennheiser HD650, old (black driver, old pads) version (extends subbass, removes excess 'warmth')
Sennheiser HD650, new (silver driver, new pads) version (extends subbass)
Sennheiser HD700 (adds subbass, lowers warmth, removes treble peak)
Sennheiser HD800 (adds (sub)bass and removes the 6kHz treble peak and some of the 10kHz peak)
Sony MDR-1A (removes overly warm signature and slight edge, overall improvement in clarity)
Sony MDR-Z7 (removes overly warm signature and adds upper treble extension)
Superlux HD681-EVO (removes excessive warmth and small peak in the treble)
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 9, 2016 21:05:50 GMT
Frans, I finally got around to finishing the filter board for the DT770:  One slight problem is the volume, on most of the tracks the volume has been well past 12 and on some tracks the volume all the way around. Which resistors should I replace and with what value do you recommend to get a volume that is probably somewhere around 10/12db louder? I have only had a quick 15 minute listen with the filter but it does seem to calm the top end down and also controls the bass far better. Cheers |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 10, 2016 6:06:15 GMT
So you only want more gain ?
The tonal balance is O.K. to you.
Measurements (by others) suggest the 250 and 80 Ohm versions are not that far apart tonally.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Nov 10, 2016 7:39:55 GMT
I heard a fraction more in the bass on the 80 ohm version. I can't remember which one Chris has though.
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 10, 2016 10:48:10 GMT
I heard a fraction more in the bass on the 80 ohm version. I can't remember which one Chris has though. Yeh Ian its the 80ohm version. |
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 10, 2016 10:56:09 GMT
So you only want more gain ? The tonal balance is O.K. to you. Measurements (by others) suggest the 250 and 80 Ohm versions are not that far apart tonally. That's correct at the moment Frans, with only having a quick listen and hearing the TV in the background on some tracks I will have to get back to you on the sound? But on the quick listen that I had they seem to be more like the Philips now? I have never heard the 250ohm version but I will take your word on the fact they are more similar than dissimilar. Could you please supply me the resistors to change the gain - PM me the price and I will get you the money asp. Thanks again |
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 14, 2016 20:52:26 GMT
So you only want more gain ? The tonal balance is O.K. to you. Measurements (by others) suggest the 250 and 80 Ohm versions are not that far apart tonally. Frans, I have had chance to have another listen over the weekend and I am happy with the sound of the headphones through the filter I still cannot believe how open sounding the DT770's are considering the are closed backed. Anyway back to the gain, which resistors do I need to change and to what value to give it at least a 12db boost? Also can you supply the resistors for me? Thanks Chris |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 15, 2016 9:00:10 GMT
Hi Chris,
I forgot to post the values..
The gain of the current module is +3dB
I increased it to +9dB.
Not recommended to go much higher.
Need to change:
R2 -> 820 Ohm
R4 -> 1.8k
C4 -> 470nF
C5 -> 680nF
This will change the gain and make a better correction for the 80 Ohm version.
I found some plots made with the same rig with both the 80 Ohm and 250 Ohm version.
The 250 Ohm version reaches deeper and has somewhat more bass.
The 80 Ohm filter has more subbass boost and slightly less bass reduction.
Will have to check which parts I have (680nF I may not have)
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 17, 2016 8:52:50 GMT
Hi Chris, I forgot to post the values.. The gain of the current module is +3dB I increased it to +9dB. Not recommended to go much higher. Need to change: R2 -> 820 Ohm R4 -> 1.8k C4 -> 470nF C5 -> 680nF This will change the gain and make a better correction for the 80 Ohm version. I found some plots made with the same rig with both the 80 Ohm and 250 Ohm version. The 250 Ohm version reaches deeper and has somewhat more bass. The 80 Ohm filter has more subbass boost and slightly less bass reduction. Will have to check which parts I have (680nF I may not have) Hi Frans, thanks for that. I was wandering about the gain, you're recommending it should not go any higher than 9db? The flat gain module I use with my Samsung phone as the source is the 10 x gain 20db and that is about correct for me, with most tracks at the proper listening level with the vol pot at 12. What values would it be to get roughly the same volume as the Flat gain module? Cheers Chris |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Nov 17, 2016 9:22:43 GMT
Ah that makes sense.
The output level of a phone is MUCH lower than that of line level.
When you only plan to use the Kameleon with portable equipment I would recommend to short R101, R201.
So basically put a drop of solder on top of those parts.
This will increase the gain of the amplifier by 6dB.
That may already be enough with the changed module values as decribed above.
Increasing the gain of the module to +15dB is the maximum you can go.
R2 -> 820 Ohm
R4 -> 1.2k
C4 -> 680nF
C5 -> 680nF
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 17, 2016 15:09:00 GMT
Ah that makes sense. The output level of a phone is MUCH lower than that of line level. When you only plan to use the Kameleon with portable equipment I would recommend to short R101, R201. So basically put a drop of solder on top of those parts. This will increase the gain of the amplifier by 6dB. That may already be enough with the changed module values as decribed above. Increasing the gain of the module to +15dB is the maximum you can go. R2 -> 820 Ohm R4 -> 1.2k C4 -> 680nF C5 -> 680nF That's correct Frans, I will only be using the Kameleon with portable equipment and closed back headphones. So if I am reading this correctly, remove the 220 Ohm resistors and short over R1L & R1R? Replace R2L & R2R with 820 Ohm - R4L & R4R with 1.2K - C4L, C4R, C5L & C5R with 680nf? Do you have these values in stock? Cheers Chris |
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Post by solderdude on Nov 17, 2016 17:52:02 GMT
R1R and R1L should be 33k, not 220 Ohm.
When you placed 220 Ohm for R1L and R1R then you can leave it as it is.
Shorting them won't make a difference when they are 220 Ohm.
These resistors must be shorted (solderbridge) which increases gain.
I have these components in stock
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Nov 17, 2016 20:26:05 GMT
R1R and R1L should be 33k, not 220 Ohm. OK Frans, if that is correct then the Kameleon manual needs to be updated? page 19 under the Beyer DT770 says R1R & R1L should be 220ohm? When you placed 220 Ohm for R1L and R1R then you can leave it as it is. Shorting them won't make a difference when they are 220 Ohm. These resistors must be shorted (solderbridge) which increases gain. Not sure with this one, you are saying leave R1R & R1L alone - then underneath this you are saying these resistors must be shorted?  I have these components in stock Excellent news, PM me a price and I will get them ordered a soon as  |
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Post by solderdude on Nov 17, 2016 21:54:08 GMT
R1R and R1L should be 33k, not 220 Ohm. OK Frans, if that is correct then the Kameleon manual needs to be updated? page 19 under the Beyer DT770 says R1R & R1L should be 220ohm? When you placed 220 Ohm for R1L and R1R then you can leave it as it is. Shorting them won't make a difference when they are 220 Ohm. These resistors must be shorted (solderbridge) which increases gain. Not sure with this one, you are saying leave R1R & R1L alone - then underneath this you are saying these resistors must be shorted? I have these components in stock Excellent news, PM me a price and I will get them ordered a soon as Ah yes, my mistake. I meant R101 and R201 on the Kameleon amplifier board need to be shorted. R1R and R1L are not needed in the Kameleon-2, they are only essential for the in-line version. |
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