Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Aug 9, 2016 15:30:38 GMT
I finally got around to testing the Kameleon board today, life in general just seems to keep getting in the way  I have +8.23 and -8.14 at the test points Frans, which seems OK to me. I tested at the battery terminals as well and got 7.51 & 8.87. With one of the batteries disconnected and the terminals put together it measured very close to ZERO on both test points. Not a pretty sight but this was the testing done outside the enclosure:  Does everything seem OK with them measurements Frans and am I safe to solder in IC1 IC101 & IC201? I am pretty pleased with myself in that I have never soldered any SMD components before and for everything to seem OK at first attempt, then that is a big achievement for me. I was aiming to have the Kameleon finished by my next holiday in 3 weeks time? possible if the weather turns crap and people don't keep inviting themselves around for BBQ's and beer in the Tiki Bar until daft a clock in the morning  |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 9, 2016 17:05:58 GMT
Yep all seems O.K.
Just a matter of soldering in the IC's and it will probably work.
For it to work a filter module has to be placed.
Those SMD aren't that hard to solder.
Perhaps the small transistors and the zener diodes are the hardest parts.
Soldering the tab of the OPA's may also prove to be a challenge because the part itself also warms up quite fast.
Only some small amount of solder on the edge is already enough.
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 13, 2016 20:02:53 GMT
The big moment arrived Frans, I finished putting everything together and just went for it and soldered everything in place. some pictures: internal shot  Shows some dodgy wiring - may have to re-do them?  Every thing is a bit cramped?  Flat gain filter in position  Front shot with Samsung phone as source and Philips Cityscape phones  Top shot  Rear shot  Unit charging front shot  Unit charging rear shot  I just want to say a really BIG THANK YOU Frans - A: for designing such a clever amp  and B: for all your help and advice  I could not believe how long it took to charge - up to 14hrs minimum, although it does say this in the manual. I had a quick listen last night and was gobsmacked by how good it was  It is so dynamic and lightning fast with such a deep controlled bass with everything in it's place that I forgot I was listening to MP3 through my phone and I could quite easily have been in my mates house listening to his Martin Logan ESL speakers - superb  The only slight problem I encountered was that if I had no music playing and the vol was turned up then I got a clicking sound from the left channel. I swapped leads etc and the problem was still there, so I thought swap to my wife's phone and it was still there. I then plugged it in to my laptop and nothing - so I assume there is nothing wrong with the build but for some reason a slight problem with Samsung phones? My wife has the same Samsung phone as me. My daughter had a quick listen to a Paramore track that she knows really well and was also very impressed, I had to let her have a quick listen seem as she bought me the enclosure for my birthday |
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Aug 14, 2016 1:18:59 GMT
Well done, Chris. Brave man!!
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garyc
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Post by garyc on Aug 14, 2016 10:09:06 GMT
Regarding the clicking when using a Samsung phone - I've also experienced problems from the headphone output of my Samsung Galaxy S4 to drive the line in of my car. I was hoping the NX1 amp I bought recently would solve this, thinking it was some kind of level or impede nice mismatch, but the problem just seems to be worse with random clicking and crackles.
From Googlingg, there seem to be many reports of problems like this, with YouTube videos on how to replace/repair the headphone sockets on the S3 and S4 models.
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 14, 2016 19:27:10 GMT
Regarding the clicking when using a Samsung phone - I've also experienced problems from the headphone output of my Samsung Galaxy S4 to drive the line in of my car. I was hoping the NX1 amp I bought recently would solve this, thinking it was some kind of level or impede nice mismatch, but the problem just seems to be worse with random clicking and crackles. From Googlingg, there seem to be many reports of problems like this, with YouTube videos on how to replace/repair the headphone sockets on the S3 and S4 models. Thanks 4 that Gary. It seems Samsung used a 1/4 inch connector instead of a 3.5mm connector and they are fractionally too big, not a big deal to me as the sound is very good and I don't notice any crackling when music is being played, it is only when music is not being played and the volume is high that I notice it. Time I had a new phone anyway? |
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Post by tunkejazz on Aug 15, 2016 13:48:15 GMT
Great job! It looks terrific.
It actually looks smaller than I thought it would be compared to the size of the phone and headphones.
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Post by varzyl on Aug 20, 2016 10:41:33 GMT
Hi Frans! I think I found an error in the parts list: C20 and C21 are listed as 25V, but the corresponding items on mouser, Farnell and RS-online are stated as 35V. Is this the right item on Conrad? 443974 - 62
1010936 - 89 seems to be out of stock at Conrad's unfortunately!
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 20, 2016 10:55:20 GMT
You can always use a higher voltage rating on the same position, sometimes not the other way around.
So when the part is originally spec'ed as 25V it is no problem using a 35V, 50V, 63V or 100V version.
In fact... the higher the voltage rating the better (longevity speaking)
The other way around may not be possible.
For instance when a capacitor is rated 100uF/25V it is best not to use a 16V rated one WHEN the voltage across it is unknown.
It may well be that the capacitor in question is only having 12V across it.
In that case a 16V can be used of course but when the capacitor has 18V on it you can not use a 16V but can use any rating above 25V.
In this case 25V versions can be used as the voltage across it is 17V for the desktop and 9V for the portable.
The height is below 12mm so that conrad one is the correct one (and the one I used myself)
1072144 - 89 (LM4562) is an excellent alternative for the LME49720
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Post by varzyl on Aug 20, 2016 11:51:12 GMT
Thanks for your reply!
What about the C35,C37,C41,C43,C48 (power section of the Desktop version), which should take 47uF\50V? The Conrad part is 792077 - 89 which is 25V. The equivalent Conrad 47uF\50V is 421989 - 62, but they are 11.2 mm x 6.3mm. Do they fit, or is it better to go with the 25V?
I found some more out of stock resistors at Conrads. Can I do these replacements?
420662 - 89 replaced by 1417620 - 62
418498 - 89 replaced by 1417570 - 62
418331 - 89 replaced by 1417705 - 62
what about the missing relais?
thanks a lot!
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 20, 2016 19:28:28 GMT
Those SMD aren't that hard to solder. Perhaps the small transistors and the zener diodes are the hardest parts. I had a bit of spare time Frans and thought I would solder the crossfeed filter. Well I think somebody is having a right laugh with me?  When it came to the 4 X 750ohm resistors I could not believe how small they were, certainly not the same size as the other components - see pic  I have just spied the first one that I lost near C1L, it has gone now though as I have cleaned the board. The filter almost finished. Frans, I don't suppose you have any normal sized SMD resistors you can send me to finish it off?  |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 20, 2016 21:59:11 GMT
Those SMD aren't that hard to solder. Perhaps the small transistors and the zener diodes are the hardest parts. I had a bit of spare time Frans and thought I would solder the crossfeed filter. Well I think somebody is having a right laugh with me? When it came to the 4 X 750ohm resistors I could not believe how small they were, certainly not the same size as the other components - see pic I have just spied the first one that I lost near C1L, it has gone now though as I have cleaned the board. The filter almost finished. Frans, I don't suppose you have any normal sized SMD resistors you can send me to finish it off? Resistors I do have in stock. Most of them are 0805 so smaller than the prescribed 1206 but they fit fine on there. Could also include resistors to make a 'milder' crossfeed. Needs the same capacitors, only the resistor values differ. Did the order codes for the 750 Ohms come from my pdf ? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 20, 2016 22:21:04 GMT
What about the C35,C37,C41,C43,C48 (power section of the Desktop version), which should take 47uF\50V? The Conrad part is 792077 - 89 which is 25V. The equivalent Conrad 47uF\50V is 421989 - 62, but they are 11.2 mm x 6.3mm. Do they fit, or is it better to go with the 25V? 25V is excellent there 17V or 15V over them so 25V has more than enough 'headroom' C48 can be mounted lying flat on the board at the part of the PCB where the amplifier board is on top of. length is not a limitation here nor for the other ones. Diameter is more important. I think 6.3mm is max diameter. I found some more out of stock resistors at Conrads. Can I do these replacements? 420662 - 89 replaced by 1417620 - 62 418498 - 89 replaced by 1417570 - 62 418331 - 89 replaced by 1417705 - 62 The resistors are O.K. Will have a look in my BOM regarding Conrad resistor order codes and update. what about the missing relais? The relay in 24V Conrad doesn't have. Look for it on fleabay... Just search for: V23026-A1004-B201 |
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Crispy
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Madrigal music is playing - Voices can faintly be heard, "Please leave this patient undisturbed."
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Post by Crispy on Aug 21, 2016 10:35:54 GMT
Resistors I do have in stock. Most of them are 0805 so smaller than the prescribed 1206 but they fit fine on there. Could also include resistors to make a 'milder' crossfeed. Needs the same capacitors, only the resistor values differ. Did the order codes for the 750 Ohms come from my pdf ? Thanks Frans, let me know how much they are and I will get you the money asap. Yes the order code is from the PDF under the Farnell column 1458823. I have looked on Farnell's site and found this one as a replacement but not sure if it is suitable or not? uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/erj8geyj751v/res-thick-film-750r-5-0-25w-1206/dp/2057833While you are altering the PDF look at page 19 where you will see the filter module for the Audio Technica ATH-M40X and the Beyer DT770 pro are exactly the same |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Aug 21, 2016 12:44:44 GMT
Will have a look at the pdf again also the beyers and ATHM40X.
I have revisit all of them anyway because I need to add R1 for the inline version.
Also some Conrad codes have become replaced by others (thanks Varzyl) so need to look at them anyway.
Postage will be the biggest cost relatively, the resistors cost next to nothing compared to 1 stamp + envelope.
Will have a look into this tomorrow.
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and B: for all your help and advice 
