jello
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Post by jello on Mar 13, 2016 13:57:40 GMT
Is that the 3D sound switch Ian? The iCAN had that too and I wasn't too keen on it as it seemed more like a brightness toggle to my ears.
I perceived little if any difference in width but then again I don't think headphones sound very wide at the best of times. Maybe it's just the way I perceive things as I've owned headphones others describe as having a 'huge' (or similar adjectives) soundstage that to me sound only fractionally wider than normal. The only time I really notice width is when a headphone sounds particularly boxy.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Mar 13, 2016 14:19:27 GMT
That's it Mark. Basically, it's a crossfeed. With that kind of manipulation, bass can get a littlr thinner. It happens with all of them. The Mieir version had a bass compensation switch which allowed you to 'dial' in different quantities of bass to compensate.
It becomes more noticeable with extreme left and right signals.
I listen to a lot of speech and with that, it really spreads out the stage and opens up a sense of air. Studio music is mostly DI so very often, it's missing or added electronically later on which isn't really as good.
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Post by timjthomas on Mar 14, 2016 9:47:22 GMT
I assume the "future" external filter will work with any amp?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Mar 14, 2016 10:11:46 GMT
Yes. It's a plug and go unit. The Kameleon can change filter like underpants so that's also future proof if you change headphone!!
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Post by timjthomas on Mar 14, 2016 11:05:44 GMT
Perfect! I will use the Kameleon for travel, but also want to use the "external filter" with the Ember at work and eventually the HD800.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Mar 14, 2016 11:14:28 GMT
Two filter amps .... that's posh!!  |
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ix
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Post by ix on Apr 23, 2016 4:46:58 GMT
... The Kameleon = NOT just another amplifier, but can be used as one... a bit too expensive for solely that purpose. After much research I'm strongly considering HD650+Kameleon2 as my end game setup. I prefer as neutral and natural sound as possible, with a flat and well extended frequency response, without any signs of boomy bass or harsh treble, and a great soundstage. Seems to me the HD650+Kameleon2 would be the perfect combo, right?  So, I'm saving up for said gear and I've started to learn soldering, which leads me to my questions... 1. How much is the approximate total cost for the Kameleon 2 portable, all included (pcb, components, case, power supply...anything else)? 2. If I understand correctly, no complete kits are provided? Any recommended place to buy everything needed? (I'm in Sweden, but can order over the internet) 3. How difficult is it to put together for a novice? I've started learning to solder tiny diy kits from eBay, which is manageable for me, but not yet easy. Next up is a very basic headphone amp, which is supposed to be my last step of training. m.ebay.co.uk/itm/141855814409Am I ready for the Kameleon? Thanks! |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 23, 2016 6:07:33 GMT
Soundstage doesn't improve nor worsen by the Kameleon.
It's a headphone thing it seems.
Tonal balance and low frequency extension is what changes, with a filter module in it.
In case of the (fitted with new pads) HD650 the tonal balance changes slightly, at least it seems that way at a first glance.
Slightly less midbass and deep tight lows (the rumble kind).
Because the mild midbass hump is there the treble is relatively slightly too low which is also fixed by the filter.
When the midbass has a proper level the presence (clairity) improves.
You won't notice it that much untill you switch back to a neutral amp.
Only then you notice the HD650's minor but audible 'flaws'.
I use the Kameleon as endgame setup as well because of flexibility with many more headphones (filter modules).
1: For the portable Kameleon I reckon around E 120.- IN PARTS ONLY.
For the desktop Kameleon I reckon around E 170.- IN PARTS ONLY
2: No complete kits indeed, I only have bare PCB's
In Sweden you can use Conrad.se which has many of the parts but not all of them.
Some of the parts can also ber found on e-bay.
The gold plated headphone plug can be ordered from Thomann but they add shipping costs.
I have ordered a bunch of those which could save on shipping.
Farnell also is possible in Sweden but a bit more difficult.
Also Mouser is a possibility BUT you will have to pay import duties and extra costs which is a bummer.
Should you need assistance verifying if parts are the correct ones you can contact me... no problem.
3: SMD soldering requires a small tip, a steady hand, some practice, thin pieces of solder, maybe a magnifying glass ?, and small nose pliers.
For a novice the desktop version is easier to build as one PCB consists of 'normal' components and the amplifier only has a few SMD components.
The portable amp consists of many SMD components.
Most of them are relatively easy to solder onto the board with just a few VERY tiny ones.
Also you need to be able to drill holes and file the aluminium front, rear and top plates.
I can't say if you are ready for the Kameleon.
But should you not be able to get it working you can send the PCB (with parts on it) to me and I can possibly fix it.
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ix
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Post by ix on Apr 23, 2016 11:26:19 GMT
... I can't say if you are ready for the Kameleon. ... First of all, thanks for a great in depth answer. Really cleared things up! I'm having second thoughts about building the Kameleon myself. Seems like it might be a to big challenge. Also, I thought it would be a bit cheaper to build (no criticism of course, just me being a bit inexperienced). Maybe I should contact Javier to get a quote for a finished amp. Another alternative maybe would be to get a good, general purpose amp and just buy the filter separately. I think I read somewhere that you will also release instructions/pcb for that purpose? The problem with buying another amp is that the opinions on what is a suitable amp varies so much: "Need lots of power..." "Easy to drive..." "At least 3 Vrms..." "OTL for added warmth..." and so on. Getting really confused, so a one-stop-shop is intriguing, indeed. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 23, 2016 14:58:44 GMT
The problem is that one cannot buy the components needed in small quantities for just pennies.
One would have to buy in big.
That + the enclosures makes it more expensive to build.
Working on the separate filter (also needs the same enclosure as the portable).
The Kameleon can provide lots of power (plenty of voltage and current).
Desktop version has about the same power as the Ember.
The portable version will also drive the 'harder to drive' headphones.
Of course it does not have a tube in it nor does it have a single ended class-A output stage.
It does have the same output stage as the Ember.
Also Pete Millet 'discovered' the same output opamp recently.
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Post by timjthomas on Apr 23, 2016 21:23:04 GMT
So with the external filter it sounds like you get the "ultimate set-up" with the Ember -- you're choice of tube as well as the filter to address any headphone issues.
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jello
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Post by jello on Apr 23, 2016 21:35:42 GMT
That's something I've been in two minds about.
On the one hand it's good to be able to roll tubes and add 'flavour'. However, if you have a filter that flattens out the sound and then throw in a tube with its own characteristics (e.g. elevates the bass, rolls off the treble) then perhaps it's a case of two steps forward, one step back?
Then again if you have quite a neutral tube then perhaps you have the best of both worlds....
There are a few aspects of the Kameleon I'm not so keen on but what I really do like about it is that I feel I'm hearing my headphones as Frans envisaged when he designed the filters. Nothing added / nothing removed and the only deviance from the 'target' will be individual production variances between my headphones and the ones Frans used for his measurements. Which will hopefully be minor.
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Post by tunkejazz on Apr 24, 2016 13:26:17 GMT
Working on the separate filter (also needs the same enclosure as the portable). Will it just be placed in the audio chain "between" the amp and the headphones (using the headphone out of the amp)? |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 29, 2016 11:34:20 GMT
It will be placed between the source (DAC/DAP/CD etc) and the input of your headphone amplifier.
There will be a filter bypass switch.
It will also switch to bypass when the power is switched off.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Apr 29, 2016 11:58:14 GMT
I made some recordings of my HD800, HD650, HD662-EVO, Philips uptown.
The HD800 was recorded 'as is' and via the Kameleon so you can 'switch' between them and the original recording.
The same was done for the (old/worn-padded and black-cloth) HD650.
The original was recorded via analog out of the X3 as well.
FiiO X3 -> EMU0204 -> USB -> PC with XP-SP3 with SF10 in WAV 96/16
2 minute recordings (Sting - perfect love gone wrong in MP3/320 44/16) of the line-out signal were converted from 96/16 WAV to 48/16 MP3 320kbs using the latest version of LAME-XP.
So for HD662-EVO and Philips uptown (both modified) the chain was:
FiiO X3 headphone out -> headphone -> test fixture with corrected pre-amp-> EMU0204 -> USB -> PC with XP-SP3 with SF10 in WAV 96/16 to 48/16 MP3 320kbs using the latest version of LAME-XP.
For HD650 and HD800 without filter modules the chain was:
FiiO X3 line out -> portable Kameleon with 'flat module' -> headphone -> test fixture with corrected pre-amp-> EMU0204 -> USB -> PC with XP-SP3 with SF10 in WAV 96/16 to 48/16 MP3 320kbs using the latest version of LAME-XP.
For HD650 and HD800 with filter modules the chain was:
FiiO X3 line out -> portable Kameleon with 'HD650 module' (and for HD800 the HD800 module) -> headphone -> test fixture with corrected pre-amp-> EMU0204 -> USB -> PC with XP-SP3 with SF10 in WAV 96/16 to 48/16 MP3 320kbs using the latest version of LAME-XP.
The files can be mailed to you on request (via PM or e-mail) and are 5MB each.
More than one e-mail may be needed.
original
HD662-EVO
Philips uptown
HD650 (old pads, black driver)
HD650 Kameleon
HD800
HD800 Kameleon
Of course the test fixture 'listens' differently than ears do so you should only listen to the tonal balance.
The treble may be perceived differently from how it is recorded.
Also... when you listen to these recordings with 'colored' headphones you will ALSO be hearing (most predominantly) the character of the listening headphones.
As most decent speakers are much 'flatter' than headphones it may be best to compare files using speakers that are known to be accurate.
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