dicky
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Post by dicky on May 18, 2014 6:06:52 GMT
Yes, the DC1 only supplies the charging voltage/current for the batteries. There are several possible part numbers for them and whichever is cheapest or available can be used. The same goes for the small op-amp IC3 Thanks, Frans. I thought that might be the case - but I thought I'd check. Kameleon has been running overnight to check everything works - I've got the tricky bit to do now and drill the panels.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 18, 2014 6:34:32 GMT
I f-ed that up the first time and recommend to do the front panel FIRST. If you f that up (LED's didn't line-up nicely) you can always turn that panel into a rear panel.
In the pictures of the proto you can still see how I 'filled' the switch hole by using a large bolt by which you can pull off the rear panel.
Also you should file off the sides of the top panel somewhat at the position of the front screws otherwise you cannot pull the lid off or push it all the way to the front.
I have 2 ways to remove the top plate. One where the rear is 'fixed' by using the 4 plastic 'plugs' that hold the front an rear panel when new in the box. I use 4 of these that hold the back. It can be pulled off easily and remains fixed good enough during usage. A disadvantage may be it is easy to loose these 'plugs'.
The other way is shown in the desktop version. In this one I filed down the rear panel so the lid can slide in and out easily. The problem for a portable version is that the lid isn't fixed and can slide out (partly, as far as you filed down the edges of the top plate) easily when holding it upright.
Maybe this could still work well if a small 'locking slider' is created on the rear panel that prevents the lid from sliding out. Perhaps using 1 of those plastic plugs in the upper hole is enough to keep it from sliding out yet is easily removed.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 18, 2014 18:45:45 GMT
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 19, 2014 18:32:04 GMT
I wanted to 'revisit' the HD650 and make a filter that removes the warmth and makes it a neutral boy of wonder. The earlier HD650 filter design was based on leaving the character but adding subbass extension and brightening it up. It remained a 'speaker in room' emulator. original plot of my HD650: Below how it measures via the Kameleon with 'HD650 module' installed. Good part is it not only measures better, it sounds just as 'real' as well. Talking about sound... In THIS DOWNLOAD LINK there are 2 files for those wanting to know how the headphone sounds (in comparison with the earlier uploaded headphone recordings) and a file that must ONLY be played back on a stock HD650 via a 'normal' amp and you can hear how it sounds via the Kameleon. The component values for this filter will be listed in a coming update and would like some feedback of HD650 owners if they liked what they heard. www.filemail.com/d/owkrelqaicwyehf
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 21, 2014 11:19:24 GMT
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 29, 2014 15:07:22 GMT
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dicky
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Post by dicky on May 30, 2014 11:59:41 GMT
Thanks very much, Frans. I assume I can make the 2.7nF from a 2.2nF in parallel with 470pF? Is that close enough? Richard
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on May 30, 2014 12:37:36 GMT
Yes,
More than close enough. Most of my filters have been made with paralleled capacitors.
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dicky
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Post by dicky on May 30, 2014 13:02:05 GMT
Thanks Frans.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Jun 5, 2014 21:46:47 GMT
First 3 amp boards finished, only filters and enclosures left to go. PS. The pic is a little crappy but only had the phone and not enough light.
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Dave
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Post by Dave on Jun 5, 2014 22:40:50 GMT
First 3 amp boards finished, only filters and enclosures left to go. PS. The pic is a little crappy but only had the phone and not enough light. At risk of stating the obvious, two of the boards seem to be missing the output jack? I hope the one with the jack in place is mine . Given that I do not need mine enclosing I might get my board and filters posted in time for my holiday? . Seriously, and this bit should have come first, that all looks like very good, and very quick, work so well done Javier - great news!! Cheers, Dave.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jun 6, 2014 5:13:29 GMT
I recommend the BC547's (on the right) should be lying 'flat' on the board. The reason for this is when taking out the filter board your finger may push it down and eventually break off one (or more) of the legs.
Also remind your self that the labelling of the 2 front LED's is 'swapped'
The 'guide' posts (M3 bolts) will have to be placed as well. The filter will be a tight fit with those large diameter caps but should just fit.
Do the headers fit nicely in those sockets ? Haven't tried it as I use another header and socket myself.
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dicky
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Post by dicky on Jun 6, 2014 7:00:33 GMT
I used the larger caps on my board. No reason except they were the first part number I used!
The filter board just 'kisses' the capacitors.
For extra security, I used nyloc nuts on the 'guide posts'.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Jun 6, 2014 7:22:50 GMT
At risk of stating the obvious, two of the boards seem to be missing the output jack? I hope the one with the jack in place is mine . Given that I do not need mine enclosing I might get my board and filters posted in time for my holiday? . Seriously, and this bit should have come first, that all looks like very good, and very quick, work so well done Javier - great news!! Cheers, Dave. Yes Dave, the one with the socket is your board. I put it in because you are doing the enclosure yourself, the others I'll solder in when the front plate drilling is done. I won't be able to resume building until next Monday. I'll try my best to have your filters finished and everything shipped before next Friday but can't promise. Once shipped it should reach you within 5 working days, maybe less.
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Javier
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Post by Javier on Jun 6, 2014 7:49:33 GMT
I recommend the BC547's (on the right) should be lying 'flat' on the board. The reason for this is when taking out the filter board your finger may push it down and eventually break off one (or more) of the legs. Also remind your self that the labelling of the 2 front LED's is 'swapped' The 'guide' posts (M3 bolts) will have to be placed as well. The filter will be a tight fit with those large diameter caps but should just fit. Do the headers fit nicely in those sockets ? Haven't tried it as I use another header and socket myself. Building was all good fun and easy with the exception of the SOD-523 sized zenner diode, it is so frigging tiny I had to use a portable microscope to read the orientation strip!! a white or light coloured working surface is a must, if it slips off the tweezers on a dark surface it'll be a pain to find. The big caps are indeed a VERY tight fit, in fact they push back both the TLE2426 and the BC547 which aren't completely flat on their backs but almost. For next builds a smaller cap will certainly be be a better choice, I'd say 16mm diam. will be very much OK. I'd suggest you change the EEUFC1C182S in the PDF's BOM for another smaller sized part in case someone wants to self build. The other given ref., the EEUFK1C222S, is a little more expensive but I believe it'll be a better fit. I haven't started with the filters so can't answer about the sockets. I didn't want to get the spacers/nuts+bolts until I have the filter with the headers and measure clearance.
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