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Post by thunderhead on Jun 23, 2013 20:45:34 GMT
I'm surprised that a thread hasn't been started yet so I took the
plunge. I am using the same opening statement for the Project Sunrise
as I own one also.
I built the kit, serial number K0001. The assembly experience for Sunrise II is well reviewed on Head-Fi and this one went just as well.
The Starlight is unique as the front end is much like the Sunrise, however, the output stage is driven by OP AMPS. They can be run with two or four per channel. You can even run one channel with different opamps for A/B comparing.
The manual can be downloaded from Garage1217.com.
LM4562 op amps come with the the kit. I have tried NJM4556, AD8620, OPA2132 / 2134/ 2227. The NJM4556 has about twice the output current rating of the others--they can drive my 600 ohm AKG Sextetts with authority.
The Sunrise II has jumpers to bypass the input capacitors, the Starlight does not. The BIAS LEDS operate just like the Sunrise II. With the HIGH LEDS are on and the LOW are not you get about 12 volts as measured with a DVM.
I bypassed the input capacitors by soldering a wire across them and ran the BIAS voltage up to 13 volts.
The result was just like doing the same on the Sunrise II--greater BASS and MIDS.
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jun 24, 2013 17:13:38 GMT
There are not that many Starlight amps around (yet?) and thus there are still very little reviews. You made quite an elaborate one here: head-fi Starlight reviewIt's main asset is to satisfy those that want to play with (roll) opamps and tubes at the same time. The amp is unique in that way. a small glance in the kitchen (ser# 0000):  Above the prototype Starlight. It differs in that the proto only had 1 (dual) opamp per channel and was intended to use NJM4556. Jeremy's original plan was to build a very cheap entry level amp. Along the way we concluded that it was nonsense to skimp on parts and left the 'cheap as possible' thing as the Chinese are infinitely better at this. It was decided to turn it into the Ember's little cousin and it would feature opamps as output devices that must be 'rollable' as that seems to be what users like to do most. For this reason we ditched the input cap bypass and auto-bias but kept the 6V/12V selector and 2 output resistances. The reason it is set to 12V is the fact that the opamp buffers the tube output without lowering the voltage. On 12V this ensures the maximum dynamic range and specified output power. Increasing that voltage decreases maximum output voltage and dynamic range by about 1dB but ONLY for high impedance headphones. For low impedance headphones that aspect doesn't matter. The indeed thingies (when fitted with IRFxxx) need a bias voltage about 4V higher (about 16V anode voltage) due to the voltage that falls over the gate-source. When fitted with IRLxxx that voltage drop is decreased to 2V (about 14V anode voltage). The starlight doesn't drop any voltage so 12V is it's optimal setting. In all 3 cases the output voltage clips symmetrical and thus the amp has maximum output power/dynamic range |
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Post by thunderhead on Jun 26, 2013 1:11:27 GMT
OK, backed it back down to 12V. ONE of the many things that sets this forum/company apart is the excellent technical details like explaining the 12 volt setting.
Way to go, Frans
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jun 27, 2013 17:39:33 GMT
Look what the cat also dragged in ...  This is project Starlight serial# 0000. It was sent in the (optional) flight-case in which all amps can be ordered. It really is a very neat and secure way of packing. This is the one that will be touring so if you are interested in listening to or reviewing it simply make it known in this thread. It will be on a basis of trust and the promise it will be sent along to the next person who wants to have a listen or back to me. A chance to listen/demo/review/test it for shipping costs only (so only the send along/return it shipping costs) It would be nice if some feedback is posted, warts and all. |
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jul 3, 2013 18:02:50 GMT
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Post by jhelms on Jul 4, 2013 4:49:34 GMT
Long live the Vikings!
Ron, Appreciate you doing this post and that you are enjoying your amplifiers! Saw your Sunrise post as well, very cool!
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Post by clausdk on Jul 4, 2013 22:57:36 GMT
The Vikings are waiting, we already got 4 on the list, so it wwill get a lot of promotion in the country that really counts LOL
I will try and see if I can get people to do some impressions/reviews in english also..
Thank you very much for giving us the opportunity..
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Post by clausdk on Jul 21, 2013 14:59:07 GMT
I was the first to get my fingers on the loaner version of Starlight..
It came packed in a bombproof box..
First I would like to say that I am not a tube guy, I like SS much more, I guess I am not musical or something..
Anyhow I do have several tubeamps and the Starlight is the secondbest I have heard, the best being my V8, with the full monty from Mike, it was BYW modded by McFrede a good friend and a great hoved-fier thanks..
What do I like in the Starlight ??
I like the Midtone very very much it is sweet and involving one of the best I have heard, I also like the nonpiercing highs, in those two regards it is a giantkiller does nothing wrong which is a great thing..
I like the design, I like the people who made it..
What I do not like is the soft bass, please remember I am compairing with what I usually use and those amps are way more expensive and SS, I also do not like the open design, it picks up quite a bit of noise from my wireless and mobilephone filled home, it is no problem at the first floor, but my livingroom is not a good place for such an open design..
AS a whole it is a very good amplifier, at a very good price..
More to come...
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Post by jhelms on Jul 24, 2013 19:07:15 GMT
Hey Claus! Yeah open designs or any design with a visible tube can be susceptible to noise - us and our antiquated light bulbs  What tube is currently in the Starlight? What settings are you using her at? What headphones? Not sure if the tube has been changed since shipment. Let me know and I can make some recommendations to tweak her a bit more to your liking or let me know your findings overall. Love to hear your impressions. |
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Post by clausdk on Jul 24, 2013 22:18:07 GMT
Hey Claus! Yeah open designs or any design with a visible tube can be susceptible to noise - us and our antiquated light bulbs What tube is currently in the Starlight? What settings are you using her at? What headphones? Not sure if the tube has been changed since shipment. Let me know and I can make some recommendations to tweak her a bit more to your liking or let me know your findings overall. Love to hear your impressions. The Tube is an EH 6922, I am not sure I got any others that are not in use and do not require that I take my other amps apart.. It is set to Low R. The phones are Takstar Pro80, I like those because they are quite neutral and at home they are my "workhorse" I will give it a go with my CIEMs.. The DAC is a Compass2 from GDaudio. Genereally I really like the sound of it, it is mostly the firmer bass in a SS amp I miss and the sensitivity to noise is a real problem in my house, other than that it is a wonderfull little amp.. |
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Post by clausdk on Jul 24, 2013 22:23:45 GMT
I will give a better review when it returns from our danish tour, as the weather is now I like to spend my time outside catching fish and enjoy the outdoors, I will also go on holiday in a very short time..
So at the moment I am quit pressed for listening time, other than portable gear that is..
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Post by thunderhead on Jul 26, 2013 14:15:02 GMT
What tubes provide a more "bassy" sound?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jul 26, 2013 14:27:24 GMT
6H23N-EB is a good one, but if you really do want a bassy sound, a headphone change would provide it.
This valve is very nice.
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Post by thunderhead on Jul 28, 2013 21:59:08 GMT
And what headphone(s) could that be?
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jul 29, 2013 5:36:13 GMT
Any headphone you like. DT990, DT770, D2000, M50. A headphone that's bassy I guess.  My point is that you will get bigger changes with a headphone change rather than a valve change! The headphones that you currently have (AKG 702, 240 Sextett, Alessandro MS-1, Grado SR225i, RS2i and a modified SR80) aren't really noted for having 'deep' bass. (Although they are fine headphones) I don't particularly care for the Grado sound myself, or the K7** range of headphones. The K7** do go low, but it's just not that pronounced tbh and I find the sound of them to be very 'toppy' with a thin bass. I fought with a K701 for a long time but could never settle with them. Golden Ears is a good place to check out how headphones respond in order to give you an idea of what they might sound like without actually buying them. en.goldenears.net/419 |
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