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Post by miiksu on Feb 11, 2018 7:24:57 GMT
So it does not matter how thin or thick the material is if it pass the same amount of air? I need to test more when I have free time.
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Post by miiksu on Feb 9, 2018 15:20:49 GMT
solderdude did u even try active carbon filter on front of the driver? I used thin layers to lower HD681 upper frequencies when I used it. It worked quite well and did not make muddy sound. I have some leftover I could try to mod somehow this HD688 with those. Maybe blocking the holes with that? Or even the driver with one thin layer. But I like the sound atm. Good bass extension not floppy, middle is very persistent, vocals, wood clappers, quitar and upper frequencies but not too sibilant just slightly on some songs. Maybe I need to lower upper frequencies 1-2 dB on EQ. Need to listen a lot songs, enjoy and make adjustment
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Post by miiksu on Feb 8, 2018 16:25:04 GMT
The question is how they change the tonal balance. Measured a lot of pads and none of them really worked well on this headphone. Hmm. I moved the drivers position because I did not like the tonal balance. Too sibilant if the open port is on my auricle. On the sides not too sibilant. Can't say how those Defean pads perform but they fit nicely as they have told.
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Post by miiksu on Feb 7, 2018 18:58:06 GMT
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Post by miiksu on Feb 6, 2018 17:08:56 GMT
Both pairs of P82 now on their way to Frans to measure. Subjectively a good sounding portable headphone (firmly prefer the newer pair now) for not a lot of cash, but will is it one that will please those of a more objective disposition? I have no idea tbh (my ears like quirky tuning too much)! From a purely personal p.o.v. I'm more interested in seeing just how differently my pairs measure. With further listening I suspect it is more than I initially thought. Not sure if it will be possible to tell for sure but I also wonder how much of that can be directly attributed to the changes to the drivers and how much to 'normal' production variance. There may well be an element of both. That is nice to hear. I hope they measure well. Does it take long? Are u both from same country?
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Post by miiksu on Feb 6, 2018 17:00:50 GMT
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Post by miiksu on Feb 4, 2018 18:31:13 GMT
I made better EQ setting for my modded HP. Upper frequencies was not smooth enough. Its better now. ufile.io/jockgAll Left Right
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Post by miiksu on Feb 4, 2018 8:17:24 GMT
solderdude nice work Looks much better on upper frequencies.
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Post by miiksu on Feb 3, 2018 17:23:07 GMT
Working on a filter that replaces the toilet paper. Also slightly different way of using the bass port (not totally sealed anymore). For now more clarity, more 'open' sounding and slight 'etch' is removed. More sparkle... the toilet paper removes a bit too much 'air' for my taste. takes a week or so to put mods on paper. Requires soldering parts and the driver. Worth the bother to me. Happy to hear further improvement is possible. Hope the soldering is not complicated. I missed that post. But I bet its only some resistors and something else to filter frequencies. I use only resistor on my HP's. I think I'm using 1W creamic resistors on both channels. I don't remember the ohm rating. I think it was something between 150-170 ohm. But its not in the HP's its soldered in the candy box To lower output impedance. I'm happy atm with those my mods and EQ. But if Solderdude can make it even better, I'm interested. Firstly I was oh this headphone has potential but needs tweaking. Now its good but it can be still better but not that much. Surpassed my 700€ book speakers of flatness and soundscape. Edit. Ups. Wrong everything. Right click on the images. They were 3W. Green is 27 ohm and grey is something else. Can't see the rating.
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Post by miiksu on Feb 3, 2018 11:59:50 GMT
Is this for a stock HD688 ? Modded. But it's for actually for my modded version. I have added some plasticine to inside the cups to lower resonance and bass. I also added thick paper to cover the driver's all holes of front side but not the grill And lastly I added rubber band to the small cap between the driver panel and cup. To that cap where the original pad's edge goes. Edit. And I almost forgot one last mod. I also added six 20x3x3mm foam stick the driver grill, more focused upper frequencies.
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Post by miiksu on Feb 3, 2018 11:10:26 GMT
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Post by miiksu on Jan 27, 2018 15:45:09 GMT
The mesh is virtually open. Covering it with toiletpaper removes the bass. Thank you clearing that up. What I was smoking when I opened the cups. I don't have any memories of the hole.
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Post by miiksu on Jan 27, 2018 13:21:24 GMT
The proto has the white paper covering the squarish hole in the middle while the production model has a black mesh. What effect would replacing the mesh with that type of paper have? (been wondering for a couple of day ) The mesh looks like from the photo air move more freely. Need see it on my own eyes how it looks.
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Post by miiksu on Jan 23, 2018 17:54:34 GMT
After some of the mods the 688 seem to me a bit too much bassy/warm, but i still need to raise the pads and then listen to them a few hours. Before doing that i want to do some (cheap) pads rolling and then decide what to do on them. Thanks for all the tips. I added 64mm x 3 mm rubber band to the driver and the cup gap, where original pleather pad edge goes. It helped with bass control. Less womby and more solid.
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Post by miiksu on Jan 21, 2018 17:14:22 GMT
Hmm. I think that is too much. If u have quality control then its better. I use equalizer apo with peace. It have nice features and good control. But it's only for Windows.
3350 Hz, +5 dB, Quality 10 5050 Hz, +5 dB, Quality 10, Left channel 5010 Hz, +5 dB, Quality 10, Right Channel 8500 Hz, +5 dB, Quality 10, Right Channel <-- I just found I had this dip on upper frequency. Left channel was OK.
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