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Post by Mr Trev on Feb 25, 2020 16:40:18 GMT
That is good advice about developer mode. There are quite a few options that you can disable (apps running in the background for example) to speed things up. Even better is if you can root the device, although I haven't followed the device enough to say if/how to do it.
There are some good 3rd party apps if one wants to use Android mode. HibyPlayer and Foobar are probably the 2 I'd recommend. Neutron is supposed to be good too, if you want a payed app. Still I think the best thing Fiio did was to have a music only mode.
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Post by Mr Trev on Feb 24, 2020 19:04:59 GMT
This seems to be a fairly common complaint with Android based players. I was looking at an ibasso player (dx160?). It has dual card slots, no bluetooth or wifi. Much newer than the Fiio, but still many complaints about the speed. The SoC these players use are pretty taxed even running the simplest, stripped down version of android, from what I gather.
The new "M" players are supposed to have much better performance, but I haven't really been following Fiio's players much since their switch to android and the complaints - like yours - about the performance. These days, I wonder if a person is better off buying of of those DAC/amp dongles and just using your phone. I haven't gone that route yet, partly because my phone is micro USB not USB-c, and mostly because I just don't like touchscreen interfaces.
I recently picked up a used Sony A17, and man is that a pleasure to use. Simple UI and plain d-pad type controls. Personally, I think Sony totally nailed the DAP UI with these players. Granted it is really showing it's age. USB transfers are really slow - think 1st Gen Fiio X3 slow, and library builds do take a long time - not so much basic library, but doing the SenseMe channels (which I absolutely love). I current have 64GB + a 128GB card worth of music - some 3000+ tracks - so I guess that's not really unexpected. My biggest complaint so far is that its next to impossible to find a LOD cable for the things.
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Post by Mr Trev on Feb 2, 2020 16:59:02 GMT
If you want to waste some time and start from scratch, again, download this tool and reformat the USB. filehippo.com/download_hp_usb_disk_storage_format_tool/This HP tool has been the most reliable one for formatting I've found so far - I've been using it since I first got my X3. Maybe exchanging it for a different one would be a good idea to consider, just for piece of mind if anything. There are tools you can download for testing USB/SD cards too. If you run into any files that won't play properly and have online storage (dropbox, gdrive, I believe W10 offers free onedrive space) post a link to them and I'll have a look myself and see if I can find anything. If you don't have online storage, just send me a PM and I'll give you my email and you can send a couple files if you want.
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Post by Mr Trev on Feb 1, 2020 22:19:39 GMT
I don't mean to sound flippant but, welcome to Windows 10. (OK maybe a little flippant)
It is strange that the USB isn't being recognised. That should be a pretty basic thing for Windows by now, I know the only time I've had any trouble is if I use the USB stick for a Linux installer. Perhaps a previous format didn't quite take and left you with some bad sectors. A full format(as opposed to quick)should fix that. If the format you did took a long time then it should be full format and hopefully that problem will be sorted.
Out of curiousity what brand USB stick do you have? Do you have another to try? - just to see if it works any better
Are you ripping directly to the USB or to your HDD first? I'd recommend ripping to the hardrive and copying the files to the USB afterwards.
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 29, 2020 22:19:58 GMT
Another quick tip… When it comes time to do the ripping, try not to use your computer for anything else - that'll make it less likely to get any sort of file corruptions during the rip or file transfer.
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 29, 2020 22:05:15 GMT
Ahh, now that does seem like a corrupted file - could be others too. If you're checking out Foobar, there should be a tool to check file integrity. Sometimes it's a problem that can be repaired, but most often a re-rip the the best way to go. It also could be the USB stick is starting to develop bad cells. It happens, I just threw out a 8GB stick a couple of days ago because it was getting unusable… im hoping its not the stick as i have only just recently bought it. btw i'm not transferring files from my pc library. reason being that when i created the library i was just using foobar on my pc and didnt see the need for album art. now i have the nice new head unit, i really want the album art to display, so i am ripping again straight to the stick. i have never been sure of the best way to structure the files on the stick though. whether to have a folder for each artist, then sub folders for each album so any advice on that would also be appreciated? Not knowing how your head unit works for browsing (using it's own database or just a file explorer) your idea of going with an "artist"/"album"/"track" is probably the safest bet. It should have you covered for both browsing methods. Album art? First you should check what the resolution of your head unit is - there's really no point in having art that is 1000x if the head unit only displays 400x. I would imagine it would be best to embed your artwork too, as opposed to using something like cover.jpg - but again it depends on the specs of the head unit.
<edit> just had a look at the Kenwood page. Nice unit, can even handle DSD. Since it has a display of 1280x720, I'd think an album art resolution of 600x600 should look pretty darn fine. Plus it should remain fairly responsive, not having to deal with excessive scaling of the artwork (one time I accidentally embedded some artwork at 3000x3000. Sweet mother, that slowed my player to a crawl)
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 28, 2020 22:08:02 GMT
IIRC, way back when the Fiio X3 first came out, it had some issues with tagging. The "solution" was simply to remove all but the most basic tags (artist, track, album, etc) Personally, I use dbpoweramp for this, but mp3tag also has an automated way to remove unneeded tags. Also, one thing to check is the tag format. Depending on the age of your car stereo it may only support id3v2 (or even v1). If the music is tagged as id3v3 that would cause issues. Again mp3tag can deal with that. i play music direct from a usb stick and i did notice playback just stopped mid track the other day. i have since plugged stick into my pc and playback stopped on same track in exactly the same place.so now i am thinking that i may have an issue with the drive that i used to rip!! ?? Ahh, now that does seem like a corrupted file - could be others too. If you're checking out Foobar, there should be a tool to check file integrity. Sometimes it's a problem that can be repaired, but most often a re-rip the the best way to go. It also could be the USB stick is starting to develop bad cells. It happens, I just threw out a 8GB stick a couple of days ago because it was getting unusable…
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 27, 2020 17:00:35 GMT
IIRC, way back when the Fiio X3 first came out, it had some issues with tagging. The "solution" was simply to remove all but the most basic tags (artist, track, album, etc) Personally, I use dbpoweramp for this, but mp3tag also has an automated way to remove unneeded tags. Also, one thing to check is the tag format. Depending on the age of your car stereo it may only support id3v2 (or even v1). If the music is tagged as id3v3 that would cause issues. Again mp3tag can deal with that.
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 6, 2020 4:26:26 GMT
Alan does make a great point. It is still possible to do a free and legal upgrade from 7 to 10. Save yourself some money and go that route if possible.
As far as home vs. pro? Not too sure if it'll benefit you or not. If you're pretty computer savvy and like digging deep into the OS to configur access and stuff like that, then pro could be worthwhile. I bought a pro key myself, and I really don't use many of the extra features. Plus on top of that Microsoft removed a bunch of the feature and made them only available on enterprise now.
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Post by Mr Trev on Jan 3, 2020 17:44:34 GMT
Hi all. I will be getting a new NAS (Qnap TS-231p) today and am hoping you guys might have some advice on the best way to set it up in order to stream music to both my Win. 10 laptop and my DAPhile server. I'm currently using a WD Mycloud which is full. It's currently setup using CIFS, which does work fine for Windows, but since DAPhile is linux based the transfer rates are considerably slower. I was thinking about setting the new NAS to use NFS for sharing, but I have no idea how well that'll work under Windows. I know there is possible conflicts regarding file structure ("/" vs "\", capitalization). Anything else I need to consider before I get in over my head?
Cheers
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Post by Mr Trev on Dec 29, 2019 22:47:48 GMT
im looking at ditching 7 for 10 in the next few weeks. i have 64 bit 7 at the moment but never understood the difference vs 32 bit. which version of win 10 (home) would you guys recommend? The first question is how much RAM does your computer have? If it has more than 4GB then 64bit is pretty much mandatory. 32bit will still work, but you won't be able to use more the 4GB of the RAM. These days, I really can't see a reason for not using a 64bit version unless the computer is really old and has some hardware limitations. There are a lot of technical reasons that 64bit should be better, but I'll let people who are much smarter than me explain them.
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Post by Mr Trev on Dec 1, 2019 21:10:42 GMT
Matching issues how? Total or certain freq.? On the HF thread somebody mentioned balance issues that were caused by the centre of the driver being caved in. Managed to fix it somehow (probably the same way you can fix a dented soft dome tweeter using gentle suction) I always though it was odd too that the X2 were designed with removable earpads, but you can't actually buy them.
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Post by Mr Trev on Nov 30, 2019 23:39:22 GMT
I'll jump in quickly and point out that the Fidelio X3 is supposed to hit the market in January. Might be worth waiting around to see what the impressions on the new model are first
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Post by Mr Trev on Nov 9, 2019 23:48:28 GMT
It was my sons gaming PC... Already fixed it by using a bootable USB stick with W10 on it and putting back a backup from a few months back. The saves from games we already backed up a few hours before we started experimenting. He got a few blue screens in the last couple of days so we had to see if it was hardware (PS or videocard) or a software or Windows issue. Glad to hear you got it sorted. With Win.10, backups are pretty much mandatory before you start screwing around. I've gotten into the habit of making a Macrium image of my system before I do any attempts at updates or major driver changes.
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Post by Mr Trev on Nov 9, 2019 21:23:53 GMT
I've been using W10 since it came out and see no issues whatsoever with it. The only issue I have with windows 10 is that you cannot turn off automatic updates? and as Mr Trev said, they can cause as much headaches as they fix. I use Sledgehammer w/WUMT to control the update process. It can be found on Major Geeks. An hour ago we tried to enter safe mode (wanted to delete some undeletable crap) and set it so it boot in safemode. Now .. it is stuck in a login screen which tells us 'something went wrong'. Seems like the only option is to re-install W10 ... grrrreat ! Frans, If you have a bootable Win 10 USB handy <same thing you would use to install> you may want to try booting off that first and see if any of the repair functions work. Can you boot into safe mode or is that where the error happens? If you can get into safe mode maybe try running "sfc /scannow" from the command prompt (you might even be able to get to a command prompt from the USB repair functions)
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