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Post by jhelms on Jan 29, 2015 23:45:25 GMT
So... Everyone has wanted us to do a metal chassis for some time for our amplifiers. However with each request I have clearly stated that when done - they will not be fully encased to keep with the theme of our current designs. I dig the partially open look and it helps keep cost down. (we may look at adding in a front and back panel with sides open but that is just a random idea for now - a lot depends on final quotes) These designs will add some screening but of course will not be as good as sticking them in a metal box Anyways - I have been busy and the first prototype enclosure was just finished up today. The pictures below are of the top plate only which will be for a solstice. Will do the chassis for all of our amplifiers soon and do a buy on them if people are interested. I should have my final quotes tonight so I can slap a price on them which will be a big factor if anyone will want them. Details and specifics:- Top and bottom plates will be made from 3+mm aluminum. Roughly the thickness of the current acrylic - They will all be anodized black / brushed finish with a machined silver bevel a shown - Logos and such will be laser etched into the anodizing which looks very clean - Will for sure add weight to the amplifier which is never complained about and a more durable - scratch resistant finish In the below photos, they accidentally got the hole diameter wrong for the tube so that looks a little funny. Also the black is just spray paint to get the two tone look across. I may just increase the tube cutout hole from 25.4mm to 34mm so that the top covers are a one size fits all ordeal for those that want to run a larger bottle 6sn7 style tube. Still thinking on that as the hole may end up looking a little funny with a more common small bottle tube which the majority will use. Thoughts? The downside is that these can only be produced in large qty or prices will be ridiculous so I cannot stock both a large hole and small hole version for the tube. Rant away - feel free to cheer, boo, clap or hiss I know I cannot please everyone but I think this is a pretty cool, sexy and easy to install upgrade!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2015 2:02:03 GMT
That will look really cool when it's anodized and etched but it's not for me personally. I actually like seeing the gubbins. I've read & reread the manual and being able to see the components has allowed me to understand all (well, most) of what's going on.
I do appreciate the benefit of more weight though. The Ember is so easily moved when using the power switch.
A real tempered glass option would be sweet. Best of both worlds. Probably expensive though.
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dicky
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Post by dicky on Jan 30, 2015 8:12:03 GMT
Looks great Jeremy. A little extra weight would be nice - my Polaris certainly slides about a bit. I'd consider just using the base as I also like to see the gubbins.
As for hole size - how much bigger is the large hole? Do you have a picture of the large hole top late with a small tube in?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Jan 30, 2015 10:48:59 GMT
Perhaps give the capacitors a bit more room around it. The enclosure of a cap is connected to the - of the cap and when metal would make contact between the - of the cap and the top plate (which will be grounded) the output of the amp is essentially shorted.
Fortunately there will be no permanent damage and currents will be limited so not killing ibn any case.
Of course a metal bottom plate and acrylic top plate (I think glass will be very expensive but who knows...) Perhaps a front panel made of smoked acrylic or even metal may be neat as well. A metal bottomplate may be all that is needed to screen the amp from transformers in equipment below it.
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Jan 30, 2015 21:29:46 GMT
Rant away - feel free to cheer, boo, clap or hiss I know I cannot please everyone but I think this is a pretty cool, sexy and easy to install upgrade! NOOOOOOO Don't hide away all that lovely workmanship Jeremy - I know glass is expensive, but to me it is the ONLY option.
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Post by jhelms on Jan 30, 2015 21:52:01 GMT
Hey guys - When checking into machined glass, it was more than the price of the entire SC Ember for a single top cover ha! So the only clear tops will be acrylic. Also, the risk was way high. Break one (easy to do) and I or you are out hundreds of $ per cover. I have no problem offering metal bottoms only and keep your top cover. Will just add some screening to ember, solstice and polaris and weight to the rest. However with tubes - the tube itself is the most susceptible to noise Getting a chuckle out of this - I get beat up over the head for years on not doing metal chassis and now that I am starting to - everyone wants to stay with the clear HA! Guess the look has grown on your guys Same with me - love the open look. The actual finished tops will be very sexy with logos etched into them. Much better than the above photos show. Do remember, it will still be open on all sides for now and with the light of the tube - you will still see a good portion of the guts! I ordered in some first article / full production Samples that are etched for Polaris and Solstice. Just to start with - to get an idea of the final looks of the design(s). Once finished I will post pics, prices and open a buy for those that want top and bottom, or just bottoms. Good news is that my first price estimates are not all that painful so unless something changes, it will not be a costly venture to upgrade
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jan 31, 2015 19:09:39 GMT
I like the idea of a glass top that's engraved, but I know that the price would be a lot higher. It would look more like Swarowski then. (I use binoculars and telescopes)
The other thing I really like is the larger gold knob. It looks good but also, it's weight and size makes it much easier to make macro adjustments, which is very useful with such a powerful amp.
How about the cased one being higher up off the deck with bigger feet so it's possible to fit an even larger knob?
I must admit, I prefer the old look, but I guess that type of enclosure would kick interference down so it makes sense.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 20:26:48 GMT
Swarovski? I have a nice pair of Leopold's I make do with.
The problem with the top plate for me is that, apart from not being able to see the internals, it negates the effect of the LED under the tube. You guys have kinda made a rod for your own backs. The Ember does sound fantastic but it's USP is it's styling. That's what initially hooked me anyway. Now that I've heard it I'd buy it if you packed it in a fish box.
Its a difficult one for sure.
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Rabbit
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Post by Rabbit on Jan 31, 2015 20:39:58 GMT
I have a few pairs of Leica binos and a Leica telescope too. I can see the hairs on a birds nostril!!!! I'm a bird watcher as well ....... What a nerd eh? The amps look great, I think. But I do like my gold knob! It just gives weight and more control to the adjustment of volume. Especially useful for low impedance headphones. I'm glad you like the Ember, Gordon. I was really chuffed with mine when I got it and I'm equally chi puffed with the Polaris. That one has a bit less tube flavour and I like it with the Senn hd650 in particular. DY990 works really well with the Ember and the DT770.
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oldson
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Post by oldson on Jan 31, 2015 21:05:05 GMT
I have a few pairs of Leica binos and a Leica telescope too. I can see the hairs on a birds nostril!!!! I'm a bird watcher as well ....... What a nerd eh? The amps look great, I think. But I do like my gold knob! It just gives weight and more control to the adjustment of volume. Especially useful for low impedance headphones. I'm glad you like the Ember, Gordon. I was really chuffed with mine when I got it and I'm equally chi puffed with the Polaris. That one has a bit less tube flavour and I like it with the Senn hd650 in particular. DY990 works really well with the Ember and the DT770. nothing wrong with being a bird watcher mate. (and yes i am talking about the feathered ones). my wife enjoys seeing the different birds in our garden. i too would like a nice glass top plate for my Ember. although the new plates look nice Jeremy, i am another that like to see the gubbins inside.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 21:40:03 GMT
Sorry to go off-topic. We're pretty lucky with birds around here. This is one of our neighbours. I can see his nest from our bedroom window. The bugger went for one of our dogs two years ago and we always have to keep and eye out for the chickens, easy prey for these guys. We also have nesting Ospreys, although right now they're on holiday somewhere in North Africa. solrighal.deviantart.com/art/Sea-Eagle-Green-Zero-342025745Back on-topic... Last week I thought I was having problems with interference between the Ember & the ODAC. I was wrong about that and will explain all in the Ember thread. Anyway, I would probably go for one of these top plates, particularly as it would be additional rather than instead of the perspex.
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Post by musicman on Feb 1, 2015 2:31:22 GMT
I think for compatability I would go with the 34mm hole on all the top plates. It is not that much more and it would be easier and cheaper to have all one size if for no other reason than inventory control. You just know if you have both you will be out of one size and then the next orders will want that and put you in a bind. I measured it out on my plexy and the difference is not enough to worry about. I am going to enlarge the diameter on my plexy top so I can use it with either tube type. For me I would probably be in for the metal base but not the top at the moment. I like the plex top, and I just bought another pair of 650's on sale for $290 so I am going to have to lay low for awhile!
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Post by deireleire on Feb 2, 2015 9:32:39 GMT
Will it have an additional active filter option like the kameleon?
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solderdude
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Post by solderdude on Feb 2, 2015 10:32:15 GMT
Nope... that will be an add-on module.
It doesn't have a priority yet for Jeremy.
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Post by jhelms on Feb 6, 2015 19:16:25 GMT
Almost finished up Laser engraving the tops tonight but was excited so I decided to show you guys the real finish work prior (brushed aluminum anodized black). Figured it would be fun for some of you to see things in progress. Way better than the spray-painted proto I originally showed. As always, they look much better on the amp and in person so real photos to come tomorrow. Working with the new CNC shop helps pave the way for the metal enclosure on the linear which was halted as my last quotes were insane for just the end caps of the enclosure. Now that I will be doing things in batches, it makes things reasonable. More to come on that soon!
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